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[WORKLOG] Silly Bends? First Hard Tube Build - O11D-XL w/ G1 Distro

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by rg144, Jun 22, 2022.

  1. rg144

    rg144 Member

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    Hey guys, some questions below if anyone can help.

    First let me preface by:

    1. Last into wc loops mid-late 2000's, back when we were cutting our own case windows & putting silver in loops ;) So no exp with current gear/please forgive any silly questions, googled mindlessly last 24h.

    2. Aware of:
    a) ridiculous/unnecessary bends, the point of using a distro plate w/ straight runs, and
    b) potential for (small?) impact on flow/pump/temp performance here vs minimal bends/straight hard tube runs

    Figured since this was my first rigid tube build,
    - I'd get all the silly aesthetic desires/hard tube itches out of the way
    - Try my hand at something other than the standard Lian Li O11 + Distro (horizontal) tube runs which all very common/can be done with no work (nice that you can buy 90deg bends I guess, but where's the fun? ;)

    This is a secondary build for next ~3-6mo, so just a bit of playing around here.

    What I'm looking at (feedback/criticism/scrutiny very welcomed):

    upload_2022-6-22_11-58-23.png
    (Not perfectly to scale but close enough)

    So after offloading some 12mm gear and DDC3.1 pump, left with following:
    - EK Velocity CPU block
    - EK DDC3.2 w/heatsink + Lian Li G1 Distro Plate/Res
    - EK 360mm SE rads
    - EK 14mm Quantum Torque fittings (no extenders/no angle fittings. Not a fan of how chunky the 90deg quantum torque fittings are, although the new micro rotary's are nice!).
    - Corsair 14mm tubing, acrylic
    - EK Temp sensor, ball valve/drain
    - Some old Noctua/Lian Li Fans

    - Waiting to find a GPU block (if anyone has one for an AORUS 2080 let me know!)


    Questions:
    1.
    Is it better to vary pump speed based on a temp curve/points? i.e on these DDC pumps (or D5's, out of curiosity)- are we against running a pump constantly @ 100% for reliability/longevity reasons?
    - Again no experience with these long term
    - In days past, old rule of thumb was ensure pump @ constant 12V rather than changing voltage, prior to PWM of course. I see most? pumps nowadays have a 12v molex/SATA & mobo pump header. DDC 3.2 specs here. Did see this thread but was looking for any further thoughts/opinions

    2. If above is so, anyone recommend software to change pump speed other than FanControl?
    - Running a Crosshair VIII Formula. Prefer to play in software first, then look to set in Bios (I believe W_PUMP header has points for low/med/high)

    3. Digital Flow sensors.. Anything recommended or pass?
    - From what I hear many are useless/inaccurate/not worth the cost. The Aqua Computer gear looks great but damn pricey..

    And of course- thanks to Bertross, theasianbuffguy, Wacko02, kev5473 for all the parts, and juzz86, jjjc_93, nCrypt and The Beast for the great info in many threads here :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2022
  2. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    I'll put a post together for you after work boss, bit limited here these days! :thumbup:
     
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  3. Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

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    yep, that's gonna get silly! :D
    What's the GPU plumbing plan?
    Talk me through the CPU-Mobo-Rad loop, and why you don't flip the top rad end to end and just use the distro block ports at the top right for this?
    You could still do some interesting stuff with the CPU block and mobo, but that top run will need at least 3 bends in different planes which will test your patience!

    To your questions, based on my limited experience:
    1. Yes, main reason is noise as the DDC's at full throttle will be the loudest part of your system and gets annoying fast. I also played around with monitoring temps under load with various pump speeds and didn't find any significant difference, so didn't feel that running high flow rates was critical. Pretty sure others have done much more extensive and scientific testing on this though.

    2. I've used the bios settings for 2 systems, assuming your mobo has a Temp sensor input. On the basis of the above, a simple curve with 3 set points was enough with speed starting at 25% and maxing out at 65% based on water temp (20c to 35c). For the other system, I used a Quadro and the Aquasuite software which is pretty impressive once you get your head around it. This controls speed of all fans and the DDC pump based on water temp input (only 1 sensor in my case). Would recommend, but comes with a cost.

    3. I bought one of these for my system but didn't end up installing it either. Needs the right connector type to read it as well as the software, although the Quadro or Octo can do all that if you go that path. Complete pump failures don't appear to be that common these days (apart from the occasional batch) and if you're using Aquasuite, you can set alarms for water temp anyway, although i'm not sure what would happen if your pump did stop? I know that I had a HSF installed incorrectly and the system would just shut itself down immediately when the CPU hit 100c. No harm was done and was pretty easy to find the problem, so my justification was that there are enough safety measures in place these days that it was warranted. YMMV though.

    *edit.*
    Just looked at the manual for that mobo (what a beast!) and you've got all the headers you need already on there, so wouldn't recommend a Quadro in your case. Would give the Asus software a go to start with, or try the FanControl one? Another cheeky work around is to 'borrow' a Quadro or Octo unit so that you can install the Aquasuite software, but once it's installed you don't have to keep the Quadro connected I believe (haven't verified this personally, but remember reading about when researching).

    You can plug the DDC pump PWM cable into any of the Q-Fan controlled or even the AIO pump header and set this either in Bios or software.
     
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    rg144

    rg144 Member

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    Thanks wacko :thumbup:
    Still undecided how I'll mount the GPU (normal, seated in PCIe or flat/vertical facing side panel w/ a riser). Keeping things simple now so I can plumb in the GPU easily later i.e:

    [​IMG]
    I know, little boring on the GPU plumb..
    Initially started with both rads going straight to the distro as you suggested, makes for the most efficient/minimal run loop:

    [​IMG]

    Decided against this as I thought too easy/no challenge :Paranoid: Playing with more designs led me to flip the rad the other way to make for a more interesting (silly) loop. Decided top rad was enough to flip, wont mess with the bottom rad.

    And yeh that run from the CPU to the distro is 5 or 6 bends. I'm not using any angled fittings so all tubes are bending down into fittings :Paranoid:

    In saying all the above, very possible I'm missing a trick or 2 here creativity wise. If you/anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears!
    --> Feel free to craft up your own loop (included a Blank_Template.jpg), open to any ideas of madness/stupidity ;)

    ---

    Q1 - Seen some review's online/others also reporting only a couple degree differences. I assumed at a certain flow rate (whatever is enough for a system's loop), anything greater is negligible/can't transfer heat.

    Q2 - :thumbup:

    Q3 - Flow meter: This was really more for some learning/tinkering/better understanding water flow rates of the system with bends/straight runs etc. Nice to know water flowing but PC isn't in line of sight (beneath desk, shame!) so will obv set bios water temp alerts in the event of a pump failure. Agree re auto CPU shutdown/throttling these days, generally pretty safe with bios settings (and now software too).

    I've got an EK (plug) temp sensor to go into the mobo header. Trying to avoid the Asus software! ;)

    And thanks for confirming DDC PWM :thumbup:. I thought easy, plug into W_PUMP header but reading online = no pump control...? Not sure if that's another silly question!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 22, 2022
  5. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    We're all here to learn bud, lots of good operators here willing to help :thumbup:

    I like the idea of distro plates - especially when they help fill out the dead space in the case. Your design will do that nicely, and even more so when you plumb the GPU in.
    Don't worry about the flow rate reduction from bends - it's there, but not worth considering in loops of this complexity. Twenty-odd right angles, four blocks, six QDCs and three radiators? Yep, time to measure it.

    I can't say I enjoyed hard tube much, but I can appreciate that I don't have the patience (or money) to just throw lengths away until I get it right so I'm biased towards soft plastics. I have a lot of admiration for those who do it well, especially in tight spaces - and there are a lot of people here who really do it justice. Read through as many hard tube threads as you can find - especially the posts where the bending is laid out. Some great tips in there that'll save you a lot of time, money and frustration.

    Everything there is a great start, but I'll echo the concern with the DDC noise - they're noisier than a D5. That said, you can't fit a D5 where you can fit a DDC or a DC-LT, so you compromise whichever way you go. I do find it interesting that distro plates are largely DDC-based, but again it's a size thing.

    Pumps generally like to run steady their entire lives - starting, stopping and ramping frequently wears the wet end and bearings, regardless of size. If I'm not running a D5 Vario (with onboard speed control) I generally start them at max, and reduce duty cycle until you find the flow/noise/temp sweet spot.
    If it's a D5 Vario, set it at 3 or 4 and forget - all comes down to how well you've decoupled and where the resonant frequency for that unit is - I've got half a dozen D5s and only two of them resonate on the same setup at the same speed.
    With your DDC, full noise will be literally that, so I'd find a sweet spot and just leave it there - whether that's a set PWM duty cycle or a DC voltage control will be up to the pump and the controller, I guess.

    I'd just do it through the BIOS - set to PWM control and ramp off a temp (ideally Coolant for a long, slow hysteresis (rise/fall)) or just set a manual duty cycle where the pump quietens down a bit.

    I've had a decent run with the Freezemod unit I've got installed currently on the MoRA - no issues, seems reasonably reliable when making loop changes (I have no idea if the actual number is anywhere near real, but it does reflect added/removed blocks and QDCs). AquaComputer is the benchmark.

    Both loops have merit there, the bottom one will be easier to put together and likely a wee bit less restrictive, albeit not enough to worry about. It won't do much for making the case look 'full', but I wouldn't say it won't be more of a challenge than it looks. It'll also need a temp leg from the GPU inlet back to the distro - if I'm reading right, the top one won't?
    Top one will be a complex bending exercise, but make the rig look fuller.

    There's a sweet spot for flow rate - fast enough to get maximum transfer out of the radiator fins into the surrounding air. Quicker or slower and you're not getting top efficiency there, so temps suffer a bit. Finding the point is easy - max duty the pump, set your fans to desired speed, run Prime/Furmark or whatever you do to dump heat into the loop, and wind the pump back until you find where the temperature starts going up. Water temp should do something like this: ------\_|_/---- Pipe (|) is about where you want pump duty for that fan speed - that's your sweet spot.

    There are a couple of ways to skin this cat - remote flow sensors can be set up in AquaSuite, and there's exotic solutions if you don't mind routing the loop up to your desk!

    BIOS should be fine - I love boards with an OPT_TEMP header - you plug that into coolant and use that to ramp all fans duty. Nice and long ramps up and down. CPU temp sucks for ramping, too quick.

    A lot of pump headers run the pump flat out - AIO pumps in mind specifically there but as covered before, all pumps prefer a fixed duty :thumbup:

    Good project, roll on ;) :thumbup:
     
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    rg144

    rg144 Member

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    juzz86 you are the man mate. Answered every question 10 fold, many many thanks.

    Share your thoughts on hard tubing too, last thing I want is to wax $100 on tubing due to ignorance :) Got some left over PETG from Betross and Wacko gave me some acrylic so will practice some patience in the morning.

    I really did wanna go D5 (actually dual D5 for cpu/gpu, again silliness), but couldn't bring myself to justify the cost of pump/res combo's. What in the world happened here, don't ever remeber them being so pricey..

    Re this:
    The loop will still be complete without a temp leg back from GPU --> distro, but yeh there'll effectively be no fluid running in this section of the distro:

    [​IMG]
    (I hope that answers, sorry if interpreted incorrectly)

    For aesthetics I could fill that empty section of the distro, but thats a bit lame ;) And if I go colour (still undecided) guessing it might gunk up at the bottom since fluid there not moving/not part of the loop..?

    You also completely nailed a major point I left out- filling out the case. Decided against 12mm tubing for this reason (thought it'd look too narrow for the case), and thought 16mm was just too big/chunky, especially for the bends I was looking at. So 14mm tubing it is.

    Speaking of big- reminds me re why no 90deg fittings: Got some nice EK Quantum Torque Rotary 90deg in Bertross' kit. Lovely piece of gear, but damn are they big (compared to standard comp fittings):

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Not sure if it translates in the photo, but they're huge (2.5x height and diameter much larger too vs standard comp fitting). Either I'd have to use them everywhere, or use comp fittings with extenders for a seamless/levelled look. Or just do away with them altogether :Paranoid:

    1st world problems, all this for aesthetics under the desk. The irony! But it will all go to good use towards the next build.

    Thank you again, kick it off in the morn.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2022
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  7. Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

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    I know what you mean about the EK 90 Fittings as they're a very solid unit. Most of the ones used in my main build are out of site, but have since used Corsair and Bitspower 90deg fittings which are much nicer IMHO.

    Great advice from juzz86 as usual so should set you right, but keep us update as to how you go.
     
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  8. The Beast

    The Beast Member

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    I love this project.

    Want to comment much more but limited for time!

    My build has this exact motherboard, might help?
    Also I use all torques, and corsair 14mm, so very similar.
    I use 2x D5 though, so a sig diff there.
    Crazy bends don't matter if you have good pressure :D

    [WORKLOG] - Double Overkill ++ | OCAU Forums (overclockers.com.au)
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2022
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    rg144

    rg144 Member

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    The Beast I did read through your project with great enthusiasm, same goes for jjjc_93's- just great tidbits and nuggets in there from you guys collectively. The Aqua gear jealousy is real ;)

    Off to the races early atm. Playing around with some bends and tubing styles here (dont mind the kinks in tubing & markings, just some scrap pieces here to practice, hack measure clearance & heights, and gauge bend aesthetics)

    [​IMG]

    With the heat gun set @ 150deg felt it was a bit to slow and acrylic taking far too long. Increased to 250deg (bit high for PETG, but much better for acrylic and moved the tubes a little further up when heating). Haven't had too many concerns bending at this stage, just an exercise in patience.

    Sanding that top clear acrylic for a frosted look was also simple enough. Started with 1200 grit lightly, and finished with the same 1200 (wet sand) for the finish. Just testing here to see whether I prefer frosted or clear acrylic tubing. I actually don't mind both hah!
    - The clear acrylic (with some clear liquid) to match with the silver mirror highlights on the mobo would work nice.
    - But arrgh I've already picked up some EK solid so may as well make use of that to get the frosted look itch out of the way.

    Off to pickup some frosted tubing to save some time sanding the tubes... cutting corners already, cant be a good sign ;) back later.

    Oh and that CPU run that's not complete- will have 6 bloody bends from CPU --> distro. Silly.
     
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  10. jjjc_93

    jjjc_93 Member

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    juzz86 off the races again putting in a full effort on somebody else's build. He should start charging us consulting fees :D

    Can't wait to see how this turns out. After personally playing with hard tubing I will never touch it again haha but can definitely admire somebody else's work. I think leaning into a crazier design with more bends actually lends itself well to a hard line build. Straight 90s look nice and all but if you don't get each parallel run perfect with a perfect radius bend then you will see it and it will chip away at your soul until you tear the rig down again. With a less conventional design as long as your bends are clean it should turn out really nice. I do not envy the amount of time you will be spending turning tubes around a heat gun. Good luck!
     
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    rg144

    rg144 Member

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    You gents and your goddamn truths haha. This would've been wise advice 6 hrs ago :D
    Think i'm very quickly approaching that point now! ;):thumbup:

    Quick update 6hrs later, welcome to Amateur Hour.
    ----------------
    First up, the bends.

    Can't say I'm a fan of this/style of mandrel tool:

    [​IMG]

    I'm sure with a tiny bit more practice/wasted tubes it'd be fine. But I also found it a tiny too inconsistent with my 90's; they just weren't perfectly 90 and I felt the end result wasn't far off a good freehand job, no porn pun intended.

    Just as I was planning to create a wooden board (as a mandrel template- nailing 2 pieces of wood at 90 & 135 deg for 1" and 2" radius bends), I walked into the kitchen to smash a Tim Tam before the solution stared at me straight in the face, and it worked a treat (I know, bit ghetto):

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    ----------------
    Next, here goes (go easy!)- first try on rigid (14mm Corsair Acrylic Satin):

    [​IMG]

    ----------------
    Lastly- i'm sure some questions there, aka wtf happened? :)

    TL;DR: In short- ran out of tubing; prioritising the hardest runs first; and some mistakes.

    1. Had to do the bigger CPU --> distro run twice, wasn't happy with the first one, bends/runs were just a degree or so off but quite frankly, sucked. This was a little gnarly if I'm being honest, definately took the better part of an hour with 6 bends and obviously some freehand.

    2. Tried the CPU --> Mobo VRM run (bottom left) twice also!! I just couldn't bloody get the bends needed as shown in dummy/plan above. The clearance from CPU out and bending prior to the GPU is too small for 14mm and 1" radius bends.
    - Plan B: A straight horizontal run with an offset in the tube..? Well butchered that too, twice. First time a tad bit heavy handed. Second time just didn't look good, the tube offset looked 'mangled'.

    Obviously an offset fitting on the CPU block would be extremely useful for a straight horizontal run here to the VRM. Lesson learned.

    3. At this point, with only just enough tubing remaining for bottom radiator tubes --> distro, I just said fu<k it. I'll leave this CPU-->VRM run as some strange, wonky off piece that adds character ;) for now & sort it out later, to keep things moving.

    - Lack of tubing also explains those 2 silly clear acrylic loops on the distro plate on the right.

    ----------------
    Summary so far:
    - Another 50cm of frosted tubing would've been perfect!
    - Whilst I'd love to sort out all the mistakes here now, really more interested in keeping things moving/getting things up & running, as this is still is all a bit of play/experimentation/learning with runs & bend practice.

    There's quite a few (cosmetic) mistakes which I'll detail later but I may? just be able to get away with them aesthetically.. But jjjc_93 is 100% right, long term they would eat at me! :)

    Onto leak test now (air, then some distilled).

    Lessons:
    a) Get more tubing than you planned if first time
    b) Take your sweet ass time when bending ;)
    c) Measure twice, cut once
    d) May have been better trying to finish this over 2 days rather than 1. I am being very patient & peculiar with bends/measurements, but for perfection you really want to take time... Will detail my shortcomings shortly.

    And juzz86- read your post again mate, seriously wow. So much excellent info there deserves to be taken out and put into a sticky. That or you deserve a watercooling guild award.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2022
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  12. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    Yeah, I see combos approaching 300 now and just throw hands in the air. World is wild. Always look out for second-hand ones.

    Appreciate the clarity there bud, I think I've misunderstood the green bits initially but I can see what you're putting down now. I'm not really sure about the settling-out in a distro plate. Experience with industrial shit says that water residues and precipitants will find the quietest point and drop out, so I'm guessing dyes that are suspensions or emulsions will probably be the same. Shouldn't be an issue with an annual drain/fill. If you go colour, I'd honestly make your peace with an automotive coolant colour and go with that, or even food dye - there's enough press around about the fancy dyes falling over that I just exercise caution in recommending them, and generally stick to Tectaloy/Nulon for colours. Or colour your tubes - heaps easier.

    As far as filling goes the efforts below are really good - about the only thing I could think of to bulk it out would be an FLT120 in the back fan spot, and take the CPU outlet into it, then out to the MOSFET block and up to the radiator as you've got it plumbed in. Totally unnecessary if I'm honest :p

    Yeah wow, they're monsters. Very pretty though, and it's not like you're starved for room! The satin finish in particular is classy, but at $70 for a six-pack they can stay on the shelf. I've got these installed currently - I really enjoy the silicon grommet as opposed to the o-rings - removes the need for chamfering and the seal is very snug. For the price, impressed. These used to be $4 a piece too. Sigh.

    I love it. If this is your muck-around, I think you and hard tube will get along fine mate ;) :thumbup:

    You lucky, lucky bastard!
    /MPython

    I really like the frosting. The best thing about hard tube in the last rig was how it just looked like thick, round glass when it was full and backlit - very enjoyable. The frosting will look even better - and I think it complements the board and UNIs really nicely :thumbup:

    All of this echoes my own thoughts 100% - you've got to have your shit measured out to the mm for the straight runs, otherwise it's almost, nearly there. Sometimes, the weirder path ends up being more challenging, but more rewarding on those nights when you're perusing eBay for gummi bears and just sit back and look at what you build and go "Yep, happy". I absolutely dogged one of the bends in the previous rig, but it was a double-right-angle-90deg, so it didn't matter. I knew it was there and saw it every time, though :p

    I bought Barrow mandrels you mount to a flat surface - fine, but as you say if you want two bends identical they fall over a bit. I ended up grabbing the tube benders from work. It was tricky on 14mm tube, but it worked fine with the silicon in place. Would do it again over the mandrels anyway.

    Fuck yeah, that's more like it :thumbup:

    Hot as, love it :thumbup:
    CPU-IN, MOSFET-OUT are gorgeous.

    Yeah but it's your first go. If you haven't sat down and mapped the case and path to the mm, it's only natural to want to retry a few bits. Trial-and-error is how you end up at a unique loop anyway, it's the off-the-cuff stuff that always sticks out. Like old mate filling his soft tube loop with mineral oil. Or the cable-tied anti-kinks. Or the rubbish bin reservoir with the ice bricks in it. This is where you end up NOT just another O11 with a distro plate :p :thumbup: (not that they can't look outstanding).

    For whatever it's worth, I've thoroughly enjoyed the updates today. I've been playing along from work (without images), and I've come home and had a look and gone "Fuck, that's solid as for a first go."
    The attitude is right, the cost is ballooning, the loop isn't just how you want it - sounds exactly like you belong here mate - and you're amongst friends who understand perfectly :p :p :thumbup:

    Keep the updates coming, it's going to be lovely. My 2c:

    - Keep the frosted tube. Looks shit-hot.
    - Vertical mount the GPU to fill space, get a block with a big plexi window in it and plumb it in on the board side - no outboard tubes.
    - Try a small amount of Nulon Blue in your coolant - with white backlighting should look good.
    - I think you've nailed the airflow path - might consider running the top fans just a smidge slower than the bottom fans for positive pressure to stop the case taking dust at the seams. Might not be advisable for an O11 - plenty of people here to correct me if I'm off-base on this one. Seems fussy with it's airflow.
    - I'd replicate the UNIs on the bottom, if funds permit.
    - The DISTRO-RAD back artery is a prime spot for an inline flow/temp sensor if you're that way inclined. Not front-and-center, but also easily viewable. Low-profile one there would look good about halfway along.

    Jesus, apologies. I'm not living vicariously through you, I promise. I'd forgive anyone for thinking that though :p :thumbup:
     
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    rg144

    rg144 Member

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    I'm gonna run out of bloody superlatives to offer this ^^ man, someone give this bloke an award/reward already :thumbup: Where does one start with a reply haha, juzz jus droppin gem after gem.

    Firstly- thanks on:
    Great price :thumbup: those silicon grommets I'll definitely want to try next build. Less susceptible to tears vs o-rings?
    Couldn't have said it better. Aside from the obvious mistakes- up close if I'm nitpicking, I can see throughout the entire loop its almost nearly there.
    Have an old pair of these but honestly didn't think to use for PETG/Acrylic, some stubborn reason I thought it'd be too heavy on the plastics/silicon; and was strictly for copper/steel with a bending spring. Another nice to know! :thumbup:
    Didnt consider this, on the to do list thanks mate.

    In response to these champ:
    - Keep the frosted tube. Looks shit-hot. Agreed :thumbup:
    - Vertical mount the GPU to fill space, get a block with a big plexi window in it and plumb it in on the board side - no outboard tubes. Agreed, need a GPU block asap :) :thumbup:
    - Try a small amount of Nulon Blue in your coolant - with white backlighting should look good. - I'll try get some tomorrow, didn't consider blue at all but I can see cold deep sea waters here ;)
    - ..might consider running the top fans just a smidge slower than the bottom fans for positive pressure - Plan was to sandwich the bottom rad. I've yet to look into SE vs PE push/pull temp diffs, assume minimal difference but honestly no idea. Also assuming Push/Pull on the bottom rad should equate to positive pressure?
    - I'd replicate the UNIs on the bottom, if funds permit. - 100%. Have a few more unifans to go on the other side of that rad. But ultimately I might replace them all with Noctua's from another machine if the Lian Li RGB bizzo shits me. Hard to fault the awesome all black/stealth builds these days. Do like the Unifan cabling (or lack of), they sorted that proper :thumbup:

    I didn't take a side-by-side photo & since mangled the tube; but one thing I forgot to mention was Corsair's 14mm Acrylic Satin vs my hack (sanded) attempt at satin/frosted Acrylic (which also was clear Corsair 14mm tubing):
    - The Corsair has quite a nice shine/coating, vs my crusty/dull sanded tube (if helpful to others. Note lighting = exactly the same):

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for all the input thus far guys, given me tonnes to think about & assess on the tear down :thumbup:

    Update in a sec.
     
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  14. OP
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    rg144

    rg144 Member

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    ----------------
    Update - Leak Testing

    - Ended up with a slow-ish air leak from the top right EK plug on the front of the distro. The pressure gauge was dropping roughly 0.025bar every 5 or so mins, clearly not good. It just never goes to plan! :)

    Thankfully this instantly bubbled up with soapy water spray on all the fittings. I replaced the o-ring on the plug and sure enough- zero drop in air pressure after an hour. To my eyes the affected O-ring looked absolutely fine, but oh well, no harm no foul.

    With zero drop in air at 0.5bar for an hour, have since moved to testing with (distilled) water:

    [​IMG]
    (removed all the paper towels under fittings for quick photo)

    Now I feel like a complete tool for not thinking EK clear/distilled water from the start, & purchasing some EK solid.
    I quite like these frosty vibes with distilled. Minimal, chilled. Those clear tubes on the distro look shiny too though, goes great with the mirror finish on the board lol. Ohh the joys of scratching your head over minor, silly things.

    Looking forward to my favourite part of the build after the drain: Cable management. fu<k.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2022
    juzz86 likes this.
  15. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    I retract the previous suggestion for slightly bluing the coolant. Leave it as-is and backlight it, it will look even more beautiful :) :thumbup:

    Better see if I can find some TG panes to do the sides on the Rocket. I love that look. Sigh... :p
     
  16. OP
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    rg144

    rg144 Member

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    haha. Also starting to retract everything RGB/color wise (with) every new step of this build :)
     
  17. OP
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    rg144

    rg144 Member

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    Fu<k. Cable. Management.

    [​IMG]

    - The green fluid? I just had to scratch that old early 2000's wc'ing itch.

    - That tube run from the CPU-VRM? Actually makes me giggle, some weird little out of place sausage that doesn't belong. Its there for science folks (or the lack of..). If anyone asks it adds character :tongue:. All part of the silliness/absurdity.

    I see an 'S' and an 'A' for you South Australian folk too.

    Its been a long day, more updates tomorrow ;)
     
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  18. Wacko02

    Wacko02 Member

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    That's actually come up a treat mate! Agree with Juzzy though and leave it with clear fluid once you've done with your retro WC itch. :lol:

    Will also second those silicon sleeve insert fittings as a much better experience than o-rings. I was tearing pieces off o-rings everywhere and even now I can see a couple of very small black pieces of rubber on my block fins. :upset:
    The sleeve ones are much MUCH better to use and form a nice solid seal as well. :thumbup:
     
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  19. OP
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    rg144

    rg144 Member

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    With you guys too, clear fluid definitely minimal, understated & sleek.

    Keen to try these silicon sleeve insert fittings on the next run around.
    Must say I like the idea of more contact with the tube for a tight seal and never seen this before :thumbup:

    upload_2022-6-24_13-59-34.png

    Silly question here- has it taken 10yrs for someone to do this? Or has this been around for yonks?
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2022
  20. jjjc_93

    jjjc_93 Member

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    That turned out a treat, great effort for a first time! I echo the comments about clear fluid in a satin tube but it looks good in green too. Reminds me of the throwback days when we were throwing car coolant into our loops :p

    Those sleeves were the o-rings my barrow fittings came with. I quite liked them, very hard/impossible to damage with tubing and I re-used them quite a few times.
     

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