[WORKLOG] Silverstone FT02 DIY Watercool

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by straiton, Apr 12, 2015.

  1. straiton

    straiton Member

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    Oct 2016 - Updated at post no.22
    Feb 2017 - Updated at post no.27

    Had an Antec TX1050 case and wanted to upgrade my DIY watercooling for CPU and GPU, the Antec was getting a little cramped
    Found a Silverstone FT02 case off the forums recently, so initially, i just transferred everything over as best to see how it performed(ignore the convoluted pipework).Hardly any difference tempwise.PWM's dropped the most.

    Antec TX1050
    [​IMG]

    Initial FT02 fitout
    [​IMG]

    FT02 DIY Watercool
    [​IMG]

    I came across an old split-aircon for a few dollars.An hour or so dismantling had the guts out, then a plan of attack formed.

    The videocard has since returned to air, as i wasn't keen on the bend in the board to hold the waterblock down, and temps on air were pretty good with the FT02 anyway.

    Specs

    AMD Opteron 170 delidded
    DFI SLI-DR UT LanParty
    2GB Team DDR500
    FT02 Black (v1.0 non AP fan model)
    Gigabyte WF 7950
    Antec Quattro 1000
    (Any comments on my rigs lack of grunt will be reported :))


    24/7 Overclock

    CPU - 3.0 GHz @ 1.4V (50% OC), std. TDP 110W (OC TDP 118W)
    Mem - 270 MHz @ 2.7V
    GPU - 1103/1250 MHz


    Watercooling

    Ghetto Jet(Ghett) DIY waterblock(constructed and in use since 2007) - originally 49 x 1.0 holes for a lidded Opty, now 12 x 2.0mm holes for a delidded Opty
    block jet area approx 38mm2 either way

    Antec TX1050 aircon rad 16 runs x 9mm ID copper, one inlet/one outlet, one 120mm fan with shroud
    cooling rad volume 205 x 125 x 45 mm (1,150,000 mm3)
    tube cross-sect. area approx 64 mm2
    calculated water volume approx 128,000 mm3
    Ghett block 12 x 1.5mm holes

    Silverstone FT02 aircon rad 12 runs x 6mm ID copper, two inlets/two outlets, three 180mm fans with shroud
    cooling rad volume 540 x 130 x 25 mm (1,750,000 mm3)
    tube cross-sect. area approx 56 mm2
    calculated water volume approx 181,000 mm3
    Ghett block 12 x 2.0mm holes


    Temps

    using Speedfan
    TX1050
    20ish ambient
    fan speed varied with CPU temp(fan audible at high CPU load)
    idles app 30/35, Orthos 10 mins,CPU load 49/51C, PWM load 57C, NB load 51C

    FT02
    20ish ambient
    all fans on low(slight noise)
    idles app 27/34, Orthos 10 mins,CPU load 48/49C, PWM load 63C, NB load 45C

    all fans on high(clearly audible)
    idles app 26/34, Orthos 10 mins,CPU load 47/48C, PWM load 62C, NB load 44C


    Notes

    - stock fan holders and filters removed, so fans can mount as low as possible in the bottom of the case.Wanted a shroud and some clearance to video card
    - rubber strips in bottom of case under fan edges to minimize vibes and air leaks.The bottom of the standard case is not flat due to strengthening ribs, so rubber strips help level the fans up
    - filters remounted with alum guides to underside of case
    - modified the front case to unibody plastic spacer, for filter guide clearance
    - quad speed CDrom Swiftech pump mount.Had to cut the pump plastic slightly so it fit into 2 bays
    - covered 2 lower optical bays on unibody with piece of 3mm perspex and glued with epoxy
    - cut out the lower 2 internal optical bays and refitted HD enclosure higher up.
    - made a 3mm thick perspex full coverage shroud facing towards RH side panel, which allows clearance for 24pin M/B cable and vidcard cables.Shroud fits over fans on 3 sides for minimal air leaks. 20mm clearance from fans to rad fins.Approx 15mm clearance from rad to videocard
    - four slot-in shroud mounts placed to LHS of fans(looking from front of case), with easily accessible bolt mounts on RHS.Minimal fitment issues.Extra length in the water hose to rad, so that rad can be removed then system drained.
    After removing the videocard, the whole rad plus shroud can be removed...just.Should have made the rad fractionally shorter(Note for Mk2).
    - made an inlet and outlet fitting
    - after cutting the rad to size, the original plan was to glue the u-bends back on after flaring the corresponding tubes slightly.Being so thin, the tubes easily split(i tried first on the offcuts), so Plan B uses 6mm silicon tube fitted directly on each part.No leaks.
    - i also derestricted my waterblock slightly, as after inital tests the suction side of the pump would collapse the 9mm silicon tubing with the dial at 2 or above.Went from 12 x1.5mm holes to 12 x 2.0 mm.Block waterflow cross-sect. area approx 38mm2
    - two refill/air removal points at a convenient unused switchmount in the top panel
    - no hoseclamps at all except at pump
    - front and rear satin black paint on unibody

    Future

    - full or partial perspex window
    - side or internal fan for better PWM temps
    - vidcard back on DIY water

    So was it worth doing?
    A good little project over 2 weeks or so, that i wanted to do, partly because the original rad looked so out of place in a cavernous FT02.
    A bit more work than i initially thought, particularly the perspex shroud and cutting/refitting the optical/hd area
    CPU temps are only 2-3C better
    Satisfaction of DIY

    Pics

    Aircons

    [​IMG]

    rad positioning
    [​IMG]

    end tubes partially cut
    [​IMG]

    shroud and rad positioning
    [​IMG]

    oops
    [​IMG]

    new inlet/outlet
    [​IMG]

    bottom of case - fans fitted
    [​IMG]

    undercase dustfilters
    [​IMG]

    CDrom pump mount
    [​IMG]

    Ghett block dismantled
    [​IMG]

    original jet piece(has since been cut smaller)
    [​IMG]

    Ghett block modded
    [​IMG]

    front 2bay perspex
    [​IMG]

    FT02 DIY Watercool
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2017
  2. shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Mr constuctArad :thumbup: Like it home made ftw
     
  3. AMD2400

    AMD2400 Member

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    That alone makes it all worth it.

    Loving those hard tubes, dissipating heat is a bonus!
     
  4. OP
    OP
    straiton

    straiton Member

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    The silicon tube kinks very easily on bends, and i have plenty of copper at hand
     
  5. jpickett

    jpickett Member

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    Do you get a playable frame rate in minecraft?
     
  6. shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Yeah that's just cheeky :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2015
  7. OP
    OP
    straiton

    straiton Member

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    I've played minecraft since it's official release and it's always run fine on Normal Distance render and relatively decent graphic settings. It was only since 1.3 came out my minecraft has become unplayable estimating about 10 FPS on even tiny distance and all the lowest settings. :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2015
  8. OP
    OP
    straiton

    straiton Member

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    Small Update
    Had been having some fluid loss constantly(maybe 5mm worth of hose each day or so), and unable to locate an obvious leak(admittedly i didn't try too hard to find it, just kept topping up), have decided to add a small reservoir to the mix.
    Removed the radiator to drain the coolant some, and just happened to catch a few drips as i flexed the main inlet fitting.Made a mental note and pressed on anyway.
    Didn't have much in the way of suitable containers for a rez(clear/low height/large diameter), but found a specimen jar i had lying about(see, those hospital visits are useful :))
    Added the rez to the top of the case, through one of the expansion slots and tee-ing into the pumps suction side.This meant two short hoses rather than one long one for the pump inlet, which helped as i could turn up the pumps flow rate to #3.
    I also reseated the block.
    Flared the copper tubes on the radiator at the inlet fitting slightly, for a better fit of the silicon hose, and hopefully no leaks.
    Temps have dropped further again, probably due to the flow rate increase mostly.

    15ish ambient
    all fans on low
    CPU idles approx 23/29C, Orthos 10 mins,CPU load 38/40C, PWM load 60C, NB load 45C

    [​IMG]


    reservoir
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2017
  9. Davo1111

    Davo1111 Member

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    fantastic!

    although the leak is a bit of a worry!
     
  10. shane41

    shane41 Member

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    I keep coming back looking at this thread, why ???
    I'm after a monster rad like this.........MO-RA3 420 LT black

    http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wat...hops/WatercooleK/Categories/Radiatoren/MO-RA3

    But the stupid Aussie dollar is low to EUR. 230EUR shipped to Aussie $400 approx. FaKK that !!

    Look in link top x2 core pics. Same theory as 3/4 core radiator.
    Like the idea of pulling the radiator core from a Window Type Airconditioner & apply OP's method on it. As after a core say 30cm wide by 45cm high.

    Thought's :confused: Rather spend $40 than $400 & fine to braze it myself
     
  11. _slacker_

    _slacker_ Member

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    hiding from census dude!
    Shane, there was a dude on here back in the day, Athilus or Mithicus or some shit but he used am old Morris Minor radiator. You really want a fucken engine in your computer if thats not MOARRAD enough bloke :lol::lol::lol:
     
  12. shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Don't laugh m8, I was scoping them $80 V6 commodore rads on Ebay

    Alloy + Coolant FTW :Pirate: :lol:
     
  13. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    I've got one of these with the grills and floor stand and it's good, however Kommandant33 would be the bloke to talk to about a MO-RA. I know he's got one, but I think he went back to internal rads in a recent build? Drop him a line, good bloke :thumbup:
     
  14. OP
    OP
    straiton

    straiton Member

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    shane,
    AFAIK aircon coolers are generally not as good temp wise as heater core type, size for size.Maybe few degrees worse.
    If you're looking at aircon units, you most likely want the condenser(the other half of a split system), not the evap bit i used, as the size might be better
    These are the evaporator units i had to choose from
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2017
  15. brayway

    brayway Member

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    This is awesome, nice work!
     
  16. rainwulf

    rainwulf Member

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    This looks like something i would do haha
     
  17. /invariance\

    /invariance\ Member

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    There is nothing better than a fully custom water loop :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

    Top stuff there straiton!

    Maybe an interesting exercise; pop an off the shelf cpu block on and see if there is any difference in temps. Problem then is it won't be "fully custom".
     
  18. shane41

    shane41 Member

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    Have admired that rad in the few pic's I've seen. Though the $$ factor puts me off atm making any worthwhile offer to Komm

    Thanks for pics of your stash m8. Was wanting to comment earlier than this, just the hold up on a suitable donor air conditioner. Have one now, window type. Very much keen on the MO-RA design :) + looking on the website gave me a detailed view of the core.

    Kind of excited now on the prospect of a fabricating a vertical bench for my Haswell machine.
     
  19. OP
    OP
    straiton

    straiton Member

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    thx all for the positive comments:thumbup:

    shane, i have often thought of running a large aircon type passively on a side panel

    I did have a Cascade on the orig TX1050 setup few years back, and temps were virtually identical to my Ghett block.The Cascade suffered a crack in the perspex cover between the fittings, which i fixed, but never really trusted it after that.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2015
  20. heyimsu

    heyimsu Member

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    Love the ghetto look.
     

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