The Beginning

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by C-BuZz, Jun 21, 2005.

  1. kayl

    kayl Member

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    that looks nice cbuzz, whats the lcd off
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2005
  2. OP
    OP
    C-BuZz

    C-BuZz Member

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    you can buy them as standalone units. use them for whatever purpose you wnat :)

    C-BuZz
     
  3. eva2000

    eva2000 DDR1/DDR2/DDR3 Addict

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    ooooooooh nice lcd :thumbup: :D
     
  4. javascripterror

    javascripterror Member

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    I agree eva2000 very nice looking units
     
  5. OP
    OP
    C-BuZz

    C-BuZz Member

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    I decided to see how my modded vapo PE (from Vapo mod #2) would hold up on an A64 platform. My test system:

    IHSless Winchester 3200+ 939
    2 x 512Mb OCz Bh-5
    Dfi UT Ultra-D

    I stripped all the insulation off the crappy clamshell evap & re-insulated it with a double layer of neoprene
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    Then I needed a precision clamping mechanism to hold the evap in place. I came up with this state of the art precision engineered hold down:
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    Then some majour overkill insulation, dielectric grease on front back & surrounding socket area of motherboard. Followed by a layer of neoprene.
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    with the system sitting at stock (2Ghz), & idling not overclocked at all MBM was showing cpu hit a max of -20c then crashed lol!.. looks like the winchesters have cold bug..

    So I let it warm up a little, then cranked it up again, ran SuperPI 32M as soon as I got into Windows. Max cpu reached when running 32m for about 5min was +3c.

    So I cranked the HTT up to 240 & rebooted, straight away the temps rose from -20c to around -5c at idle showing in MBM.

    After running SuperPI at 2400Mhz for another 5min the temps reported by MBM was +15c. Which isnt to bad for an old vapo.

    Then I set the HTT to 260 & rebooted, at idle in Windows with the cpu sitting on 2600Mhz the temps where around +1 to +5c. Ran SuperPI again & the temps where skyrocketing! after 5 min of SuperPI MBM showed CPU sitting on around +35c!! lol... & the evap temp was slowly increasing.

    I had to go for HTT 270, booted into windows, temps where around +15c at idle, tried to run SuperPI but failed & crashed, I think due to the fact the temps rose to quickly.

    So I think the moral of the story is, dont use Vapo PE's/SE's on A64's heh :)

    Think i'll switch compressors to my Larger Danfoss & see how that goes.

    C-BuZz :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2005
  6. kayl

    kayl Member

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    very nice c buzz.
    Looks like ya gonna need a new cpu.
    have ya mounted you home brew block yet?
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2005
  7. OP
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    C-BuZz

    C-BuZz Member

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    nah havent bothered, theyre crap, take to long to cool down & to much mass.

    going to have to go round I think :) much easier to insulate & they look cooler.

    C-BuZz
     
  8. OP
    OP
    C-BuZz

    C-BuZz Member

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    Another update :)

    Got 2 opty's comming 144 & 146, so I decided to stop pissying around with these crappy little vapos & bring the beast back to life. Build time was about 3-4hrs including brazing the block.

    Found a drinking fountian which had a nice condenser:
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    Made up a quick shroud for the fans to bolt onto.
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    The block milled by myself & friend.
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    Compressor, tecumseh featured in previous build:
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    Block ready for brazing
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    The ugly finished product :)
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    Everything brazed together & evac'ed ready for a test run:
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    Finished
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    The system up & running, with a quick charge she hit -43 in record time :)

    Will fine tune & insulate tomorrow.

    Thx

    C-BuZz
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2005
  9. kayl

    kayl Member

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    looking good cbuzz.
    hope that cooling system isnt too cold for the 2 opty's comming 144 & 146

    cant wait to see the Supa Pi sores. go for the record :thumbup:
     
  10. OP
    OP
    C-BuZz

    C-BuZz Member

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    not really doing it to break any records, I build because I love freezing stuff, & have fun doing it :D

    they should be ok. hope both dont have cold bug. was reading on xs that some of them had cold bug kicking in at 5-10c.... but still clocking up to 3600Mhz which isnt bad at all. not that i'll get anywhere near that..

    i'll be happy if I can get to 3.2/3.3Ghz for gaming :)

    C-BuZz
     
  11. dinos22

    dinos22 Member

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    nice going what does that -43 translate to idle and load on say 180Watt CPU
     
  12. OP
    OP
    C-BuZz

    C-BuZz Member

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    Hi Mate :)

    Well after I tune/insulate it evap should hold at around -45c, idle should hit -50 / -55 as this very same setup has done it before..

    This setup should hold 180w load easy at -15 possibly lower. But i'll find out tomorrow as the 144 should be here then.

    C-BuZz
     
  13. dinos22

    dinos22 Member

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    :leet:...........dave told me you boys were up to no good knocking up these together.....shame you're not a duo any more.......

    do you know what steppings you'll get
     
  14. OP
    OP
    C-BuZz

    C-BuZz Member

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    yeah, havent seen him for quite some time now.

    getting 144 CABNE & 146 CABYE I beleive. Somthing like that.


    C-BuZz
     
  15. mr_mordred2095

    mr_mordred2095 Member

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    c-buzz, you ever thought of making some jsut to sell them off?

    i like your work, i'd buy one :thumbup:
     
  16. kayl

    kayl Member

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    Hey c-buzz, you know how ya using 4 fans on that condenser.
    If you make an air tight shroud that fits that condenser, you should be able to just use one fan to draw air through the condenser and still keep the subcooling value to 5k or so. It will be much quieter and you should get the same temp’s.

    To work out how to do supaheat and subcooling calculations read through this
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=632200#post632200

    also pm me ya email address and ill email you the pressure / temperature chart for propane. Will help ya know if condenser is doing its job and if need to shorten lengthen the capillary line etc.
    :thumbup:
     
  17. OP
    OP
    C-BuZz

    C-BuZz Member

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    then it doesnt look as cool :leet: they are actually almost silent on the 5v, if I have 1 fan it will need to be running on the 12v just to get some airflow happening & will pretty loud.

    great read man, very informative, I have read similar things on xs before but kindof confused me :p, but that was very easy to understand.

    edit: on a side note, not to sure if the system is leaking or not, but I charged it up to around 140psig or somthing like that just pressure testing, submerged the whole thing in the bath, watched it for about 20 minutes or so & I swear I didnt see ONE leak anywhere (was looking very closely :D). Took it out & left it overnight & the PSI has dropped by around 10??? what the!??

    C-BuZz
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2005
  18. kayl

    kayl Member

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    c-buzz i got to get you up to speed so we can start on a cascade in march together :thumbup:
    i got a heap of good links up my sleeve that can help.
    i sort of spammed XS when i started to learn all this stuff :D

    leak, ya cant really leak test with propane, ya need a high pressure refrigerant.
    Now that ya got a copy of that pressure chart look up 25c. its says 125psig.
    In the system there will be both liquid and vapour propane in the system at any given time. You can pump that baby full of gas and pressure wont change, it’s a given pressure at a given temperature.

    Its not the safest and most recommended way (ie moisture and stuff) but use the discharge of the getto vacuum pum ya using and pressure test items separately before ya build the system.
    Ie do suction line evap and capillary as one unit. Pump her up to around 300psig and test under water. If ya gettoed up a condenser do that as well separate.
    But what eva ya do don’t pump the hole system brazed full of air, (ya introduce condensation and its dangerous to pump the system full of air, it will take a lot.
    You can pressure test with co2 or nitrogen (I got once of each regulator if ya need one)

    Also when brazing make sure ya go around each joint with the torch & and brazing rods., ie don’t just braze from the top. If brazing in low light use a torch after to inspect each and every join, (looking for small little pin holes)
    Imagine brazing a hole cascade in a night start to finish with a few beers in ya.
    These days I never have any leaks, but I have had leaks that I just cant find.

    Since yours leaked so quick it’s a big one for sure. Small ones normally take a week to 3 months. If you did any joints stainless steel to copper I would look there that’s where I normally get them (specially on the suction lines).

    Ps i cant wait to see results on the opterons, I need to know what temps cold bugs kick in so I can make a system for a friend.
     
  19. T_M

    T_M Member

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    you dont really want a load of less than -10C on opty ;)
     
  20. OP
    OP
    C-BuZz

    C-BuZz Member

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    i've had it running for the last half hour, the temps seem to be fluctuating quite rampant, sit on -40 for a minute then drop to -37, then back up to -45.

    gotta be moisture in the system.

    yeah i did a system with a few cans im me, system ended up with 3 x access valves heh..

    there goes another glass & a half of oil..

    C-BuZz
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2005

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