The Ultimate AIO Case? Worklog.

Discussion in 'Modding Worklogs' started by Ratzz, Aug 8, 2018.

  1. /invariance\

    /invariance\ Member

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    With respect to the speakers and their enclosures, I would suggest simplifying that and dispense with the tubes and just make them sealed enclosures, as going by your renders it looks like you are thinking of putting the speakers in the tubes. Doing so would probably emphasise the midrange.
    Going by the Jaycar speakers linked previously, it’s Vas is about 1.5l per speaker, so that would be a good starting point for each speaker enclosure.
     
  2. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    I actually went up and had a look at Jaycar speakers yesterday. The ones we've been linking to are not shielded, which bothers me given they will be so close to the monitor. They do have some shielded ones, but they are woofers/mids, and the range is from 60Hz to 7KHz, so I'd need to add some extra speakers for highs. They have shielded 3" full range speakers, which don't have the frequency range displayed however. I could consider working those in with some crossovers, but that would mean finding some extra speaker space and sticking some crossovers in.

    I might look around at other options. Either that, or I will need to shield the enclosures themselves.

    I will certainly look at dispensing with the tubes, I am probably overthinking things here I guess. Wouldn't that tend to make the sound a bit boomy though?
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2018
  3. terrastrife

    terrastrife Member

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    LCD won't have an issue with unshielded speakers. Heck cheap tablets use the speaker magnet to mount the speaker to the back of the LCD panel
     
  4. paulvk

    paulvk Member

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    Magnetic fields affect the old glass monitors as they used a magnetic scanning system if you wanted to shield them a couple of tin cans over the magnets would do it.
    You could do away with the tubes just pack all the space with cushion packing which you can get from spotlight.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    OK, some googling confirms this. This will make things simpler, I can go back to the original unshielded speakers. So back to the other question.. will removing the tubes not make the cabinet a bit boomier?

    EDIT: paulvk has also just confirmed the tubes might be a waste of time while I typed this reply... :D

    Back to the drawing board for me ..
     
  6. terrastrife

    terrastrife Member

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    If you don't enclose the speaker they will sound shit in the low end, usually in a car, the two door skins are used as the box.
     
  7. /invariance\

    /invariance\ Member

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    Have a read of this site, in particular sealed enclosures and the bass reflex sections. I think it will help.
     
  8. Straylight

    Straylight Member

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    I can certainly vouch for the Tectonic speakers. They have a great low end in a sealed enclosure and go from 60Hz to 20kHz
     
  9. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    The Tectonics are easily the most attractive (as in 'prettiest') choice. Of all the speakers suggested, only the Jaycar and the Tectonics supply Vas info.. the Jaycar requires 1.48L, the Tectonic 1.1L. I have ample room for either. The Jaycars are slightly cheaper, but at this price point its not something I'm concerned about.

    The Jaycars however do have the advantage of being 500m away to buy, and the same distance away to return if I don't like them. Just on that basis, they may well be a winner at the moment.

    The original Sony car speakers I linked to also appear to tick most of the boxes, and reviews are good. I cannot however find a data sheet on them, so an appropriate enclosure volume would be just guess work. Not that I think it will be THAT critical, given I'm no audiophile and these are just computer speakers, but it would be nice to do the best job I can with whatever I am working with.

    I've been working on a redesign of the cabinet tonight to incorporate 4 power outlets internally supplied by a fused and switched IEC socket. I'll run the monitor and PSU from two of those, leaving me a couple spare in case I think of something else I want in there. I have considerable extra space available using simple sealed speaker enclosures. Really, the whole thing could be a whole bunch smaller if I did away with my requirement to be able to stow the keyboard underneath. I'll be sticking with that though.

    I've redesigned the cabinet to use simple sealed enclosures instead of the more complicated and clearly inferior way I was doing it, now that I have more knowledge. I'm not going to bother with porting, its beyond my own scope, and the various data on speakers do not include enough info for the online calculators I've found anyway. Hey, they are computer speakers, I think the various options offered thus far would all be far better than I could buy for what I'll finish up spending here, and still have the advantage of being totally built in and most importantly, built in by ME :D

    I can't even find the inbuilt speakers on my monitor.. I assume they downfire but fucked if I can even find the tiniest of grills for sound to escape from. Suffice it to say, the quality of the sound that comes from them does not surprise me. Kinda like listening to a shitty pair of headsets sitting on a desk a couple metres away :lol:

    This thread has been most helpful and informative thus far, thanks so much to all concerned.

    I'm discovering that Sketchup doesn't like importing .stp files (the only renders of the amps I could find are .stp) with a 'meagre' 16GB of RAM. A few freezes tonight have been annoying me somewhat.

    I'll post some more renders, musings and questions later.
     
  10. ruffdayz

    ruffdayz Member

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    There's another way you can do this (if I understand fully what you are after). I've done something similar for creating rumbles/tactile feedback via subs for a racing simulator (work in progress).

    How I've done it is:
    1. Car Audio Amp - https://www.jbhifi.com.au/gps-car-a...-bridgeable-amplifier-with-bass-boost/318025/ $174 Pioneer 4Ch Car Audio Amp w Bass Boost
    2. Power Supply for above - https://www.jaycar.com.au/compact-switchmode-lab-power-supply-0-16vdc/p/MP3802 - $199
    3. Whatever speakers you want.
    4. Relevant cables and Amp install kit.

    It'd be overkill, but in my case I'm driving 2 x 13" Subs for tacticle feedback.

    Sure it's more expensive than you are after but so will by your current idea.

    Note they are just really rough prices too, depending on your amp you may have cheaper power options (I opted for one I could dial specifically in).
     
  11. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Hey mate, thanks for your input. However I'm not sure how spending $373 on an amp and power supply relates at all to what I and others have been discussing in the thread? I'm planning on running a couple of 4" speakers from a couple of ~20W amps, supplied via a wall wart on an internal power board or even a 12V rail from a computer PSU. The amps are like 5 bucks each, x2, the speakers about $35, and the rest is all about cabinet design. This combo will already potentially create a crapload more noise than I will ever need.

    If I were looking for more serious grunt, I even have a powered Focal 8" under seat sub in the shed. I haven't even considered using that, it defeats the purpose of the build... and I could run that by simply adding a second computer PSU into the build.

    Thanks again for the thoughts though :thumbup:
     
  12. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    I substituted some appropriately sized mockups for the .stp renders of the amps, because the Sketchup plugin (or a RAM issue?) is making those renders difficult to work with. Here you see a redesigned sealed speaker enclosure, currently 1.48L with the Jaycar speakers in mind, and my thoughts on power supply.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  13. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Some changes have been made, renders to come soon. Basically I'm going with the more expensive Kevlar Jaycar Responses, which although still only 4" speakers require 3.1L instead of 1.48L, so I've had to make some changes to the speaker boxes.

    Still waiting on my amps, I expect them to arrive this week sometime. That will be a new learning experience for me, I've never built shit from scratch before like this, but it looks easy enough. Looking forward to it !!

    In the meantime, I have another idea. I cannot seem to find a dedicated Raspberry Pi sub-forum in here, if anyone can link me that would be very cool please.

    I've decided the space above the keyboard, which will now be considerably smaller than previously due to the larger speaker enclosures, will be too small to be useful for storage. It would however be absolutely perfect to stick a 7" or even maybe a 10" LCD touchscreen into.

    It appears the cheapest way to go would be to simply buy a yumcha Android tablet, but I'm not sure this will really suit my desires. I want the thing to display a large clock, and a couple of temp displays by default, at boot. Although I'm sure I can attach a couple of temp sensors to a Pi, I'm not so sure about doing the same to an Android, and also not so sure I can make them default to my desired layout of single large clock and 2 smaller temp displays.

    Of course, I would hopefully use the Pi for other purposes too.. I'm thinking alternative media player at the moment, since although it will draw power from an 'always on' USB port on my main rig, it might mean I can use it as a music player, using the same amps, without booting the PC. I would plan on leaving the Pi permanently on, so it won't be booting very often, but if I did disconnect it, it would be way cool if it just booted straight into Time/Temps without any BS. I presume I'd have to add a battery backup too... all things I think a Pi could do but a cheap Android tablet may not be configurable enough.

    I have no idea about Raspbian or other suitable OS, can I get a preconfigured SD card or do I need to actually learn a bit to use one of these things? Are any OCAU people willing to help me out with questions if I go this route? Can I buy cheapish external temp sensors (with cables) that just plug in, a quick google is inconclusive? I realise I'd have to configure those, again, I would ask for help in doing so.

    I've been thinking a setup like the video below might be a go, I'd certainly have the room to attach the Pi to the back of the screen and have plenty of room to spare, and access, to provide power and any additional stuff to it.

     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2018
  14. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Just a quick tip to add here.. want some more RAM? Did you know you can simply download more RAM, for free? Check this link.. :) https://downloadmoreram.com/
     
  15. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    The space I'm considering using for an LCD display. Currently 246W, 138H, 136D, but these dimensions could be altered within reason if I went for a slightly larger (10") LCD.

    [​IMG]

    New rear panel. I decided the big fans were overkill. Now going for a pair of 120mm. I've also recessed the IEC plug so the switch no longer protrudes.

    [​IMG]

    Rear panel removed. Still have the four 240v switched power plugs, to keep everything within the cabinet. Amps and heatsinks are representations, Sketchup didn't like the more complicated .stp renders, took forever to work with.

    [​IMG]

    Speaker cabinet/upper storage rear removed.

    Speaker cabinets enlarged from 1.48L to 3.1L to suit the change in speakers I'm now going to use. THESE SPEAKERS are now the ones I plan to use. Better sensitivity, nicer looking, and with more power handling since I plan on using one amp per speaker rather than the original idea of sharing an amp. I'm not going to use the supplied round covers though, they are too large. I'll incorporate my own, probably cloth, covers into the pictured square holes.

    Note the rear mounted controls on my monitor, and the finger hole which accesses them. The switch closest to the finger hole is the power button, the only one I'm likely to ever need to touch, but I 'should' be able to reach them all with my index finger I hope. The finger hole is now circular, seemed stupid to cut a square when I could simply drill a hole....

    If it turns out, on some very rare occasion, that I need to access any controls other than the power button and can't reach them with a finger, I guess I could just use a pencil or something, or it will be a simple matter to remove the back in a pinch.

    All of the IO stuff on my monitor is on the base, in the middle, about 10mm higher than the backboard currently concealing it. Easily accessible.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2018
  16. Supplanter

    Supplanter Member

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  17. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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  18. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Amps arrived today !! I knew they were small, the ebay listing gave dimensions, but its so much more apparent in real life..

    The packaging for one of the amps.

    [​IMG]

    And the contents.. with 20 cents for scale..

    [​IMG]
     
  19. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Well that was easier than expected. I did run into a problem.. the first amp I opened was missing a resistor. I opened another pack and found the right resistor, so all good. I haven't checked the remainder of the 2nd pack to see if anything else is missing from that one apart from the one I stole for the first amp. If so, there is always pack number 3 :D and of course Jaycar is an easy option.

    My soldering skills aren't great, but good enough for this job.

    [​IMG]

    and now I have an amp... the missing resistor was the 1M one with the green band on it to the left.

    [​IMG]

    Now to test this amp and see if it actually works before starting the second.... :thumbup:
     
  20. mAJORD

    mAJORD Member

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    I've certainly seen far worse soldering than that! (including ppl coming in interviews for production pcb assembly work ) Top right 3rd down, Give that another hit. Otherwise Good job :)
     

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