The Ultimate AIO Case? Worklog.

Discussion in 'Modding Worklogs' started by Ratzz, Aug 8, 2018.

  1. grrrr

    grrrr Member

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    Those 5" speakers are from same range as the 6x9s i bought on sale after hearing them at super cheap.

    The gain on the LM1875 board is changed by changing 1 (or 2) resistors.

    Do you still have a kit not made? If you have a 1k resistor handy your could temporarily solder it onto the board to double the gain, and test it again with just the PSU 12VDC on the +V and the PSU 0V on the -V and one of your new speakers.
    I could also send you to Jaycar to buy a pot so you could adjust the gain and work out what value resistor to settle on.

    BTW i bought 3 kits and they were missing parts or had extra resistors. I was missing the actual LM1875 from on kit though. :mad:

    <img src="https://i.imgur.com/1YNxDRt.jpg" >
    [​IMG]

    Gain = 1 + R1/R2
    The kit uses 22k and 1k
    Gain = 1 + 22k/1k = 23

    If you solder a second 1k resistor on top of (or underneith) the existing 1k resistor then the two 1k resistors in parallel will = 0.5k ohms.

    Gain = 1 + 22000 / 500 = 45

    I may have to edit this post a few times to fix the link...
     
  2. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Going to give that a go, I've been a little short on time, doing some work to the car while the days have been sunny(ish). If I can make them work as planned, great, if not, at least I have the other amp ordered as a backup.

    In the meantime, drew up a little plan for speaker boxes.

    Coloured bits are now 12mm MDF, glued and screwed. I figured maybe 18mm was a bit of overkill, and I would either be increasing external dimensions by too much, or decreasing internal dimensions by too much, so I settled on 12mm as a compromise. Most speaker boxes I've seen have been made of MDF, so I assume it has decent resonance qualities.

    I've been trying to cut the speaker boxes out of a single piece of MDF, and keeping the cuts nice and simple. it appears I'll have a fair bit of wastage unfortunately, its going to have to be a 600x900 piece. Oh well, that's still only 11 bucks for the MDF bits.. I might be able to use the excess elsewhere in the cabinet.

    Holes are 116mm on the MDF, the correct size for cutouts is supposed to be 115mm for the JVC speakers.

    The outer cladding, 7mm Marine Ply, will have wire sandwiched between two pieces at the front, with 130mm cutouts to fit the outer edges of the speakers. The entirety of the cabinet will also be 7mm Marine Ply.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2018
  3. grrrr

    grrrr Member

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    cool

    how portable was this supposed to be? Looks like it might be a 2 man lift.
     
  4. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Lol yeah it does a bit. It shouldn't be too bad, those speaker cabinets are the only heavier item, and only 12mm MDF @ 160mm square. The render makes them look a lot bigger than they actually are, and the monitor is pretty light really.The rest of the rig will be 7mm (or maybe 9mm) construction ply, I'm hoping for something along the lines of a slightly large , but not heavily loaded, suitcase.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Thought I might try another idea while I wait for this other amp to arrive. Clearly not finished, just a test. I've taken all of the 12v and Gnd wires to take full advantage of the power output of the 650W bronze Silverstone PSU I've used as my hack for years, from ATX, PCIE, CPU and Molex outputs, and hacked them together. removing all other cables bar the green/black combo for switching the PSU on. Don't worry, I'll do it properly if it works out. I have a million spare Silverstone cables, the PSU is recoverable too should I decide against this.

    The amp is an old Sony Xplod 2x50w RMS. It takes a 30A fuse. I have 58A cables joining it to the current dogs breakfast that is the PSU supply. Ready to test.. oh wait.. I don't have a 3.5mm to 2xRCA adapter. Or a fuse for the amp... !! Oh well, testing tomorrow. The PSU will be separate from the main computer PSU, I'll use the green/black power on bridge as an on/off signal for the PSU>amp>speakers, via a simple switch.

    There will be ample space (and cooling) within the case for both PSU and amp, along with my speaker boxes.

    More in the afternoon I hope :thumbup:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Ok so this thread has gone way past what it was meant to be. I thank all of you profusely, but in the end, I wasn't up to the task of rolling my own, so I bought a cheap amp. I still have another more compact amp on its way, I'll see what happens when that arrives, but I bought this thing at Cashies for $29, and with an old PSU (which will be dedicated to running the amp, the computer will run on a separate PSU) I have some pretty solid sound happening.

    I'm going to ask a mod to shift this thread from the electronics section to a more appropriate place for it. I've also changed the title of the thread to reflect this.

    Of course, the thread is not dead, this is just the beginning...

    For your perusal...

     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2018
  7. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Some further progress on powering the amp.

    I've decided I want to use the PSU as an intake, on the back panel. This means standing it up vertically.

    Since via conventional means there is no way to attach it in this fashion, I've stripped the case and, making sure there is zero chance of the screws fouling the electronics within the PSU, screwed the outer case to the 12mm marine ply it will sit on.

    Keep in mind this is just the mockup phase. I will of course give the PSU a paint job, and the timber, once I have it all sorted.

    [​IMG]

    Having assembled the PSU again.. since it is modular all I need do is unplug the cables to dismantle and remove the PSU case for painting of the wooden base and the PSU case...

    I've run some black 15A wiring, soldered and heatshrinked, from all the ground wires on the PSU, with the exception of a single ground wire I'll be grounding the green power on wire (not green on this modular PSU) to via a switch, to turn the PSU (and therefore Amp) on and off with.

    You can see this pair, both black of course as all wires originally were, taped to the side of the PSU for now.

    The object of course being to extract as much power as possible from the PSU by using all available circuits.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This was just to avoid a massive chunk of wires all in one group. I've split the ground wires into 5 groups, and therefore 5 15A cables.
    I've done the same with the +12V wires, which I've split into 4 groups, to make 4 15A +12V cables.

    I've then run the 5 (black) ground cables into a single terminal block, which has a larger hole at one end perfect for sticking the 58A Amp cable into.
    I've fed the 4 (red) +12V cables between the black and under the terminal block, to another similar terminal block.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Nice and neat(ish) :D

    So far I'm pretty pleased with it.

    The unrequired wires on the modular connectors have for now just been cut, but I plan to depin all of those and remove them completely. The Amp will be on a shelf below this board, not on this board.

    More later :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2018
  8. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    This combines my one true love of diy speaker design and building with my second electronics and third of case modding making this the perfect diy project :thumbup:
     
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  9. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Thanks !! Not up to your standard, I have neither the tools, the materials or the skills for your awesome stuff but I'm hoping it does what I need it to do :D
     
  10. Deano_20802

    Deano_20802 Member

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    It's coming along nicely, a very cool project.

    The old man and I have ben building custom speaker and amp setups for years (a decade plus for me, several for him).
     
  11. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Progress.
    Just the outer case thus far. I've used basic 12mm construction ply because although marine ply would be better, the formaldehyde used in the glue binding marine ply interferes with other adhesives, such as the glue on the iron-on veneer I will eventually apply onto everything to make it look nice.

    I could have just started with some nice wood and not needed veneer, but doing it this way enables me to hide the inevitable faults and blemishes which will occur with my limited tools and skills. Everything is held together with both liquid nails and screws.

    A few minor bows in the wood will sort themselves when additional pieces are added in. The base of the monitor is supported by a few chunks of wood to give me an idea of whether I am comfortable with the height of the monitor as planned. I am.

    The lower section is clearly for pushing the keyboard off the desk when not in use. The upper piece is bowed a little in the middle as all the weight of the monitor is currently in the middle of it. The monitor will obviously actually place no weight at all on it eventually, as it will be Vesa mounted to a cross section, which will also pull in the slightly bowed top of the case.

    There is about 3mm clearance around the monitor, which I'll fill with black foam.

    The occy straps are preventing the computer from falling out of the back, as the jukebox no longer sits on the Vesa mounts. Once I have the cross piece on which the monitor will be mounted installed, the computer will be removed from the jukebox and mounted to the back of the same cross piece.

    The section below the monitor, currently occupied by stand and spacers, is where the amplifier and either a headphone pocket or USB/switch panel will fit, on a pair of shelves suspended between the speaker boxes on either side above the keyboard section.
    I'm unsure about that at this point. I'd like a headphone pocket, and if I offset the keyboard to one side, I can easily fit a couple of USB hubs and switch panel to one side of it in their own section.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2018
  12. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    More progress :)

    [​IMG]
     
  13. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    A couple of thoughts here. To the right of the keyboard as pictured (or left of course, depending on where I choose to put it), I'd have room for a 5.25 bay device.

    I'm considering THIS SILVERSTONE FP-59. Sound good? A pair of USB 3.1 Type A, a USB 3.1 Type C, a dedicated USB type A charging port, multiple card readers, selectable USB current and voltage display, and a sliding fan controller. The only connectors on the back are a molex and PWM fan connector for power/fan control and a 30pin to dual USB cables.. perfect since I only have a single 30 pin connector on my mobo.

    HERE is some more detailed info on the device. I think I want it.. a lot.. :D

    [​IMG]

    I could use the fan controller to run the pair of 200mm intakes I have now decided will be on the rear panel I guess, although in all probability I like stuff like that to be full auto so I probably wouldn't even connect the fan controller to anything. I assume the molex also provides power to the USB system though, so I'd obviously have to connect that.

    Also, I'd love, although I wouldn't consider it a must have, a manual volume control for the amp at the front of the case. I'm looking at something like THIS line level control (attenuator).

    [​IMG]

    Signal for the amp will be via the green 3.5mm stereo jack, using a 3.5>twin RCA cable. Am I right in thinking I can just plug this thing inline via the RCA's for a reasonably effective volume control?

    I have no need or desire for a headphone or mic jack, just a volume control would be great.

    Even better.. is there a SIMPLE way I can use the fan control slider in the bay device as a volume control instead? I've already proven I suck at electronics, so it would need to be simple. I'm thinking probably not?

    I'm open to other suggestions here, but the keyword is compact. I hope to have nothing but the actual volume knob exposed of course. The volume knob would be located with the power switch and LED's on the front of the amp shelf.

    I'm actually considering, just for kicks, making the panel which conceals the amp out of opaque red acrylic, and using a small white LED light strip behind it to make the entire panel light up as a soft red to make a power on indicator, with activity LED's and switches through the panel externally. I'm not sure if I've explained that well, I'll post a render to make my thoughts more coherent.

    Also, due to a minor mismeasurement, I now need to recess the speakers 30mm toward the rear.. the inner depth has been expanded to 210mm anyway, from its original 200mm, and I have the room to widen the speaker enclosures, so that's no issue, it just means the speakers will be recessed somewhat, to make them slightly behind the lower monitor panel. Since that particular section is already liquid nailed as well as screwed, its easier to work around it than fix it...

    This will have some advantages as it happens. Recessing the speakers will give me front access to the monitor controls, which are on the rear of the panel, much easier than my previous plan, and the speakers will be less vulnerable to damage, so I may even not bother with a speaker grill and leave them exposed.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2018
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  14. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Something to make the above thoughts more coherent.. in those thoughts I suggested the whole front panel concealing the amp consist of red perspex, backlit as a power indicator. Drawing it made me realise that it would have looked totally dick, with that huge area backlit red, so I've modified the concept to make a much smaller power indicator panel. Anyone like this idea?

    [​IMG]
     
  15. mad_mic3

    mad_mic3 Member

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    good to see you getting into it kev:)
     
  16. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Thanks Mick :) Feels good seeing it actually starting to look like something more than just renders :lol:
     
  17. paulbaird87

    paulbaird87 Member

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    Love this build log man. What are you using to generate the mobo/gpu graphics?
     
  18. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    At the moment its my old Jukebox rig, sitting in the back of the box until I transplant it properly. Ryzen 1700 with stock Spire cooler, Asrock AB350 fatal1ty ITX/AC, and 16GB Flare-X c14-3200. 512GB 960 Pro and a pair of 2TB 2.5" Barrracudas. I'm considering moving to an mATX B450 board, so I can fit a couple more ram sticks into it, but I'll probably keep the 1700 for now, it does everything I need it to do.

    GPU is just a fanless GT710 for now, required because the 1700 doesn't support onboard graphics. GPU will be side mounted with a TT 300mm riser cable, when I get to buying one, choice unknown as yet. I'm now leaning towards an RX570 or 580, because I don't need a lot of GPU grunt, not being a gamer, and to keep the whole AMD thing happening.

    Or do you mean the software? Renders are from Sketchup.
     
  19. paulbaird87

    paulbaird87 Member

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    Sketchup! thanks. Sounds like a sweet build. Can't wait to see the finished product
     
  20. OP
    OP
    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Just tried out the attenuator linked above. It does exactly what its supposed to do. Speakers are boxed, with polyester fill, and sound great. I can't link a video right now, the family will crack the shits about the noise... :lol:

    I'll post a video tomorrow demonstrating it in action. I am more than pleased with the result :thumbup: Quality sound, no vibrations, decent bass (for the little 5.5" speakers of course) and damn its loud !! The attenuator, inline between the 3.5" jack and the amp, gives excellent control of the volume. A physical volume switch is so much more satisfying than using a mouse or keyboard !!

    All a bit ridiculous considering I rarely use speakers anyway, but a lot of fun and nice to have.

    The cabinet is a bit rough yet, its still kind of between mockup and built, but some pix of my progress will appear later tonight. Tomorrow should be pretty satisfying :D
     

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