The Ultimate AIO? Worklog.

Discussion in 'Modding Worklogs' started by Ratzz, Aug 8, 2018.

  1. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Yeah I was thinking either straight to the PSU for as many amps as it wants, or picking up a 5A brick. I'm leaning toward the brick for the same reason I wanted a separate PSU for the other amp.. potential electrical interference.. although the 30A fuse in the other amp was also a factor :lol:

    Plenty of space behind the little Lepy for a brick, so no issue there, but I don't have one lying around so that's an added cost. Trying to keep costs down for continued domestic bliss... ;)

    So making the holes for the front plate, or knobs, won't be an issue, that's good to hear. Your thoughts on the TDA8566 chip?

    As you said in the other thread, I wish you lived around the corner. I'd love nothing more than to be able to drop around your place with a drawing and say 'hey man, can you just whip this up for me?' :lol: I have lots of ideas and concepts but health and lack of motivation means half of them either don't get built at all, or I get bored with the length of time it takes me and move on to something else... :(

    It would be totally cool to pick your brains on speaker enclosures too...
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2018
  2. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Crap I just found and watched your youtube upload. It looks like I may have chosen badly... :(

    Oh well, at that price I can always turn it into something for Eva and get the other option for myself. Or.. they aren't all the same and I have a 3rd version I guess is possible. I'll know when it arrives I guess. Mine supposedly has the TDA8566 chip, not the 2020 you've pointed out in the video, so I live in hope.. unless of course they finish being the same thing.

    If my Lepy is different from your Lepy then I'll post some pix of the guts of it. Funny, I was actually under the impression that Lvpin was a ripoff of the better? Lepy, looks like it might be the other way around. Damn.

    EDIT: I'm actually getting a bit confused looking at the ebay listing.. mine is/ may be a 2024A+, which google says is a tripath chip, but some of the pix show markings on the amp as 20W RMS and others show 25W RMS, so they may actually be different amps. Curious as to what I've actually bought now... The TDA8566 is a class B chip though and the tripath is a class T.. fuck I don't know, I'll wait a couple days and see I guess. If I've chosen badly, I'll just try again :lol:
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2018
  3. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    There's no real bad choice :D all these amps are a compromise , the extra power/amps does help the smaller chip too... it just isnt as loud or grunty as the other one , and that may not be a prob with your enclosure and 4 ohm car speakers. ( i was testing on 6 and 8 ohm house speakers)

    I think i said for 20-25 bux you still can't go wrong :)
     
  4. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    So the Lepy arrived today.

    Nothing appears to match what I thought I was buying :lol:

    On one side of the box, its a LP-V3S, but on the other side, its a 2020A ???

    Note that the case, and the box, claim that it is 25Wx2 RMS.


    [​IMG]


    The box makes it pretty clear that it wants lots of AMPS please... the actual supply is a car cigarette lighter connector, with a 2.5mm DC plug on the other end.


    [​IMG]


    A quick snap of the front panel, the panel is just as expected.


    [​IMG]


    The PCB removed from the case. The PCB was actually anchored to the base of the case by a couple of screws. Note the retention plate over the chip. Under the plate is bare PCB, there is no view through to the chip, which is mounted on the underside of the PCB.


    [​IMG]


    The underside of the PCB. The chip is visible here, under the HS plate, but without desoldering it, which I don't plan to do, I cannot identify it. View from the upper side of the chip is obscured by blank PCB as I said.


    [​IMG]


    A full view of the underside of the PCB. Note the HS plate, which attaches to the aluminium body of the case via two screws at the bottom of the case and the retention plate at the top of the PCB. An unexpected bonus, better than the total lack of HS I half expected.


    [​IMG]


    It even had some TIM !! I've replaced the TIM with some Noctua NTH1 before reassembly.


    [​IMG]


    Some general shots of the PCB. The big cap is 2200uF, the medium caps are 100uF, I haven't looked at the others, the writing is too small without adding some magnification for my old eyes. General quality seems ok, everything seems solid and straight, and the speaker clamps are well sprung and secure.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    I'm going to start by running it from a little 3A brick I found in the shed, and see how it goes. I'll also try running it directly from the PSU, to see how much difference it makes giving it as many AMPS as it wants. I'll also be able to see if the PSU causes any electrical interference in the process of course.
     
  5. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    She's the gooden mate :thumbup: 5amp it!
     
  6. Defyant

    Defyant Member

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    whats the numbers on the 2 opamps?
     
  7. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    He asks after I've put it all back together, with TIM.. :lol:

    I'll tell ya tomorrow. Been out, just about to try rig it from the 3A brick before I hook it up to the PSU for comparison. Watch this space :D
     
  8. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    So its getting late, and I can't really crank it up in the interests of domestic bliss.. but with a 3A brick the sound is great. Clarity is excellent, the treble and bass range are quite wide, and the filter bypass switch does it's job. No sign of hiss or crackle which is also nice. I have no idea how loud it is capable of being yet, but it certainly seems to have plenty of grunt. Obviously not as much as the car amp, but not bad at all.

    Mounting it will be easy, making a hole in perspex for it will be easy, and the blue LED is nicely bright without being distracting.

    Tomorrow I'll do a video with it cranked up, both with the 3A brick and straight to the PSU. So far, I think I'm likely to be very happy with it :thumbup:
     
  9. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    I haven't done a sound video yet, but 3A makes a lot of noise :thumbup:


    Some more thoughts. I want to intake filtered cool air from the SIDES of the case, but that's where the speaker boxes are. So... some ducts straight through the speakers enclosures maybe?

    Side

    [​IMG]

    Enclosure dimensions

    [​IMG]

    Rear

    [​IMG]

    One of the intakes will be for an AIO, the other for the PSU. The area behind the mobo has 40mm clearance for IO stuff, and the whole deal will fit a full height, triple slot GPU no more than 285mm long ( could make it longer by making the case deeper but I am already at about the limit of how much desk space I am willing to use). The mobo tray will be a slide out ATX/mATX/ITX.

    The area immediately behind the mobo/PSU/Rad area will all be open mesh for exhaust, with a filtered fan intake on the front to keep the flow happening, as pictured in an earlier post.

    As before, the only actual connector for the case will be a single IEC plug, which will split into a couple of double power sockets internally (on the bottom shelf, behind the keyboard, I'll have about 110mm depth to play with, separated from the keyboard slot by a divider). All other cables will be contained within the case.


    I figure, they are not huge speakers, even with the ducts as pictured there will be more enclosure volume than there already is, and the little Lepy amp is an absolute beast (still running it on a 3A wart, still have the option of feeding it more power if desired).

    So, not being a speaker design person, it seems to me that the ducts won't be a huge problem, remembering that I want a decent sound but by no means audiophile quality. They'll be made of PVC or cardboard, whichever is easiest to find. I'm thinking cardboard might be better acoustically though?

    The question I am asking myself, is do the speakers really need to be at the bottom, or can I stick them up the top? Plenty of clearance to do it.. will the ducts hurt or aid the sound properties if they are directly behind the speakers?

    If I can mount the speakers high, giving a couple inches of clearance from the ducts still, I'll be able to mount the amp underneath the speaker on one side (within the actual speaker box) and a powered USB hub under the other speaker. If I have the speakers low as pictured, I may need to mount those items elsewhere, as there will be limited clearance to the duct for the amp or hub.

    Front

    [​IMG]

    Keep in mind that the amp/hub will protrude from the speaker enclosures (which are set back 20mm within the case to allow me to fit a one piece cover over the entire front of the case).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2018
  10. mad_mic3

    mad_mic3 Member

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    looking good kev:)
     
  11. Deano_20802

    Deano_20802 Member

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    It's coming along well mate
     
  12. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Thanks :) Its on hold right now, I've been working on the car stereo for a bit, installing a subwoofer. I've been experimenting with using a couple of grilles from an old case to make a front panel for this though, concept is looking good. I should have some updates soon.
     
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  13. Deano_20802

    Deano_20802 Member

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    Yeah I hear that mate, I'm about to gut the new (old, but not as old) ute to fit an immobilizer, amp, sub, speakers all round and new carpet.
     
  14. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Got it all up and running now. Have a bit of a buzz through the system, I've eliminated bad earths and aerial connection, so tomorrow I need to check that the power wires have plenty of space between them and the RCA cables, electrical interference due to proximity being the only other cause I can think of offhand. Given that I am using the same amps and HU, but I've changed the positions of the amps and therefore the cables and earths, adding a sub into the system, its clearly one of those options. Nothing else has changed.

    I'll get it figured tomorrow I hope.

    I'm using one of my 4ch. Focal R-4280 amps to drive a pair of Focal R-165S2 6.5" splits in the front @ 2x 170w (bridged) RMS, and the second identical amp to run the Alpine R 6.5" Coax speakers on the rear parcel shelf @ 2x 70w RMS, + a 12" Pioneer TSWX306B (350w RMS @ 4ohms nominal) boxed sub @ 1x170w (bridged) RMS. Doesn't sound a lot for a sub, and well under nominal rating, but its enough to make a massive difference to the sound, especially in my little KIA. It was already damn loud when both front and rear were 2x 170w RMS, but just lacked a little in the lower ranges, the sub has cured that despite stealing the extra power from the rear deck. Sounds wicked.

    I can't really even tell that I've lowered the power to the rear deck, the sub compensates in a big way and the rear deck has just become fill, with cracking mid range. I just need to get rid of that niggling little bit of electrical interference.

    Then its back to the Ultimate AIO :thumbup:
     
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  15. OP
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    Ratzz

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    A teaser.

    ATX tray, PSU moved to the bottom alongside the mobo, all horizontal as pictured. Drawings above still apply, but with a couple of changes. I'm adding about 100mm extra width to allow the possibility of ATX should I want it... for instance if I want an X chipset when the whole rig gets updated with Ryzen 3000 when it drops... and to allow the PSU to go there.

    This setup is 430mm wide, I'll need a further 290mm minimum for the speakers + 18mm for dividers, so it would be 738mm wide instead of the original 638mm. Plenty of room on the desk for that, but there'll be another 50mm either side of the monitor that wasn't there before.. I'll use those for things like the amp, switches, activity lights, USB ports, whatever.

    I'm also dispensing with the keyboard cubby, to accommodate the 200mm height of this tray.

    The main reason for the keyboard cubby was to leave space in front of the PC for me to eat my dinner :lol: but since I'm setting the screen backwards now I can use the resulting shelf to put the keyboard out of the way instead.

    That's the current 'new' motherboard pictured, Asrock B350 Gaming Pro4 (mATX) with the H55 CPU cooler it will be using. The R7 1700 will go in there for now, along with my Flare-X c14-3200. I have 2x8Gb, going to get another matching set since I now have 4 dimms.

    That's a GT 9500 placeholder :lol: which will be most likely replaced with an RX580 8GB or if I feel rich I might even splash for an RTX 2060. I certainly have no need for any higher end GPU than that. The 580 is the most likely scenario, the 2060 looks like a beast of a card but way more than I need. Tempting though.. ;) I'd have room for GPU's of virtually any height and up to about 320mm long, so pretty much any modern card I choose.

    The AIO will exhaust out the back, the pictured 140 fan is my current thought for front intake cooling. I would have room for a second 140 fan on the left of the GPU if necessary, but at the moment I can't see that it would achieve much. I might yet stick one in anyway, just in case I want a second GPU on an ATX board someday. Not likely, but always good to keep your options open :thumbup:

    I'm considering using the second x16 slot rather than the first for better airflow around the board, it will mean x8 GPU but I don't see that as an issue either for my use case.

    Any empty slot can take the wifi card I'll be fitting. Both M.2's will be populated, one with my 512Gb 960 Pro OS drive, the other with a 2TB Sata drive, and I'll have a couple of 4TB 2.5" spinners tucked down behind the PSU most likely.

    The PSU is an EVGA Supernova 650w 80+ Gold, full modular and ample for this rig. I figure it should be able to draw all the air it needs through the PCI slots, which I'll leave open but cover with a magnetic filter (unless I use a second fan at the front, which will make the filter redundant).

    Teaser.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2019
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  16. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    The base, with ATX motherboard tray mounted, and the beginnings of a speaker box. The previous version of this build was 12mm ply, I'm now using 9mm MDF, to save a little weight and to make it easier to apply an external veneer. The previous marine ply appears to have chemicals in it which reacted with the glue on the veneer. This is one of the reasons I went with a complete redesign of the original case, along with my discovery that the monitor was just way too close to my face on the desk.

    I have a cool front for the case happening, you'll see that in due course. The speaker box is slightly set back to allow clearance for any speaker travel. The outer edge of the speaker box will also be the side of the case.

    The intake fans will be about 50mm higher than they are sitting in this pic, and moved towards the edges of the speaker boxes to allow clearance for multiple graphics cards of up to 320mm on an ATX board if I were ever to want to go in that direction, but they will be 6mm back from the front of the base as you see them pictured here to allow for the cool front I plan on installing.

    Note that these are 140mm fans for delevopment but not the actual fans, which will (probably) be BeQuiet Silent Wings. These TT Riings are crap.

    [​IMG]

    To the rear of the speaker boxes on either side will be sufficient space for a double 240v power point, in keeping with my desire to keep all cables within the case and only a single IEC input socket externally.

    Speaker boxes are 222D x 200H x 142W (internal) which will give a volume of 6.3L for the 5 1/4" JVC coax speakers from the original build.

    [​IMG]

    Also in keeping for the desire to keep all cables internal, the back is inset a little to allow clearance for a right angled PSU cable, display cables, USB hubs, etc. (remembering that the monitor itself is part of the case too) as per the last render in this thread. Some details have changed, but the basic premise remains the same.

    [​IMG]

    More to come soon !!
     
  17. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    When I throw stuff in the hard rubbish, I'm selective. Thats where the motherboard tray came from, drilled out from an old case.
    I also kept these side panels from a Corsair Carbide Air 540 I'd discarded. They looked like they might be useful for something in the future :D .

    As you can see, I've trimmed some from the bottom to give them the 200mm height I want to match the back of the motherboard tray and the speakers.
    I've decided to go with 3 intake fans, which through this front panel should provide some pretty decent airflow, with positive pressure.

    I'll still have >300mm available space for GPU's, and few modern GPU's are longer than that anyway. Should I need extra at some point, I will only need to remove the middle fan and I'll have an extra 25mm for both GPU slots.

    [​IMG]

    After also trimming some excess from the sides, the width just happens to be pretty much perfect :thumbup: Hiding the fans and speakers but not obstructing them. Of course I'll clean them up. Maybe some paint, or it wouldn't actually be too hard to put some veneer over the flat surfaces either :D

    [​IMG]

    The plan is a bit fluid yet, but I think they will be mounted on some 6mm MDF, with filters. The whole front panel will have some strong magnets to hold it in place, with of course some metal on the case somewhere for the magnets to stick to it.

    I'm winging it, but you get the idea. I'll also have room on the bottom for some switches and lights should I decide that's the best place to put them.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The speakers will have separate tops I think, allowing me to have a removable lid as the shelf over the top, between the speakers and from the monitor forward, also mounted with magnets.

    This will allow some pretty decent access to the PC, especially since I'll also be doing the same to the rear of the case :D . Hard to describe, I'll do a render tonight I hope to make it easier to digest, but basically I'll have open access to the top, front and back of the PC via magnetic panels.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2019
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  18. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    I got a little more done with the front panel earlier today.

    I made the 6mm mdf backplate, and cut the fan holes. I haven't cut the speaker holes yet, you can see where they are going to be though. The whole case is a whopping 750mm wide, and the front panel will go full width.

    [​IMG]

    A closer view. Its facing the wrong way on this photo, but I plan on routing a 3mm rebate into the mdf on the grille side. I've marked on this photo in yellow where the rebate will be, but it won't come all the way down to the bottom as you see it marked here.

    Try to imagine this rebate entering from the opposite (top)edge, but only coming down 168mm .. the entire front panel is 200mm high. This rebate is where the filter will slide in. I'll attach little cloth tags to the top of the filter so it can simply be pulled out for cleaning.

    [​IMG]

    The filter panel is 448x168, with actual filter mesh size of 420x140, and 3mm thick.

    [​IMG]

    3x140mm fans will be screwed directly to the mdf.


    [​IMG]


    It will then look something like this, but with the rectangular speaker holes cut as well.


    [​IMG]


    After first adding a wooden spacer for the empty space between the mesh panels, and painting the mdf black, the mesh will be glued directly to the mdf, leaving the front panel looking like this, with the as yet uncut speaker holes behind it as well of course.


    [​IMG]


    The speaker boxes will be slightly recessed behind the whole thing to allow room for speaker excursion. The little Lepy amp can actually get the JVC car speakers moving quite well.


    [​IMG]


    A top view, again with the rebate area highlighted. This time, its oriented correctly. The filter will simply slide into this rebate. The whole front panel will be mounted by magnets,and cleaning the filter will mean simply pulling the front panel out, grabbing some cloth tabs, and pulling on the filter to remove it. Another alternative will be to lift the top cover off , which will also be held down by magnets, to remove the filter.

    When done, it will simply slide back into the rebate.


    [​IMG]


    Slowly but surely, the tortoise is beginning to pass the hare :thumbup:
    More to come soon :)
     
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  19. OP
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    Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    I decided to go with circles for the speakers rather than rectangles. Although they will be concealed by the front panel, you'll still be able to see them through the mesh, so I thought circles would provide a bit more continuity.

    The offset sets the cutouts directly in front of the speakers, which unlike the fans are centred on the height of the case.


    [​IMG]


    I've cut the first of the side panels.
    The current case sits a bit forward, as my cable hole is directly behind it and it won't push to the back of the desk due to the power cable.

    I'll be making this one with a side entry cable, I have another cable hole to the left of the case which I'll use instead, allowing me to push the case right to the back of the desk.

    End result.. although the new case is much deeper it will actually take up almost the same depth of desk, as you can see. Height, with the keyboard cubby now gone, will be virtually unchanged.


    [​IMG]


    I'm going with a Corsair K63 wireless illuminated keyboard. Its a mechanical tenkeyless with Cherry Red switches, which I'll fit with O-Ring dampeners.
    15hrs battery life, 3 hrs charge time, that will suffice.
    When not in use, it will sit on the top of the shelf formed by the main case plugged into a USB port charging. USB hubs will be on either side of the monitor (width of case = 750mm, width of monitor = 620mm).
    [​IMG]
    Glueing the side to the rest of the speaker box (the side forms part of the speaker box).


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2019
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  20. OP
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    Ratzz

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