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This why noobs shouldnt do water GPU's

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by Will S, Jan 17, 2020.

  1. Will S

    Will S Member

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    Have disassembled my Zotac 2080ti amp edition to get ready for the Corsair Hydro X Series XG7 RGB 20-series GPU Water Block (2080 Ti FE) and I dont think it will be a match especially for the thermal pads.

    First time and I thought it was broken down but it still had another frame ......and finally got that off but the layout doesnt seem to match the Corsair Card that the Corsair Hydro Config said was compatible

    [​IMG]


    and this is what I have ended up with

    [​IMG]

    I havent removed the thermal pads from the base yet....the 2 long ones are below the height of the LR22 and LR47 Inductors which had the thermal left on the frame work

    OK so I will remove the green thermal stuff and some of the Corsair thermal will cover parts but what parts need to be covered when I put the Corsair GPU waterblock on?

    Now I talked to Zotac online before doing this and he wouldnt help and said I should refer to the GPU waterblock maker.......I think I am up shit street


    and yes....sorry for a new thread but this is not a blog build thread but help....get me out of here



     
    Bolter01 likes this.
  2. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    What's the actual model number of your card from the barcoded sticker on the back? Do you have an actual AMP!, or is it an AMP! something-else?

    Watercool, EK both say the AMP! SKU is a reference PCB:

    [​IMG]

    Using the picture from the EK compatibility guide, yours certainly looks like a reference PCB around the fan headers, FETs, phases.

    It looks to me like you could flip that frame over and it'd mount okay?
     
  3. Mjollnir

    Mjollnir Member

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    Only parts with the thermal pads shown on the corsair block. Inductors dont need thermal pads.

    Is the reference PCB supposed to have a missing ram pad?
     
  4. OP
    OP
    Will S

    Will S Member

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    Yes, the Box and Card both have ZT-T20810D-10P which is the AMP Edition

    and once again a big thanks...your help has been invaluable on me getting a water loop up to its in the mail :)

    which is the ram ? On the cooling block there are pads still on it

    ok, thankyou///from the pic of the XG7 I think their is a recess allowing it to fit over the inductors and the pad will cover behind it.now looks like only one thing not covered

    I am in panic mode....not a cheap card ( well this was the cheapest 2080ti )

    and thank you


    [​IMG]

    ok.....have straightened the pic and now I only have one that I am worried about.....you see the top part still has the thermal strip on it.........and the pic of the GPU block shows what I think is recess area for the inductors ( red x )
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2020
  5. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    No worries mate, happy to help :thumbup:

    Your question mark line should line up with the raised bit between the RAM pads and the FET pads on the block itself. The Hammer is correct above - the Inductors themselves will fit in that 'X' depression, no pads required.
     
  6. Pazzu

    Pazzu Member

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    The components underneath your pad of "?" are capacitors.

    They don't generate heat so you don't need to pad them. As you can see the caps near the display output does not have a pad on the original cooler

    If you wish, you can, however there really is no benefit, it would only help to transfer the heat from the PCB generated by the VRM, and with water so efficient at removing heat, little heat is dumped into the PCB by the VRM.
    Just ensure that the there is still sufficient mounting pressure on the VRMs. (The unmarked black power stages next to the inductors)

    If you want to double check and learn something about the PCB

     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2020
    juzz86 likes this.
  7. OP
    OP
    Will S

    Will S Member

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    Yes, have seen his videos on motherboards before and have to say 50% goes way above my brain grade :)

    I guess what many say and thing is why are all the thermal gunk on the card if not required. I have accepted all the comments but in this regard I am curious
     
  8. OP
    OP
    Will S

    Will S Member

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    OK, well going to have to figure out how to buy you guys a beer or dozen

    I listened to all and just put the Hydro block down and put the GPU on top and then lifted it off and removed the GPU thermal paste plastic cover :eek: and put it down again...lined the screws and put the back plate on and tightened all the screws. If I had waited to strip it down and do it in one go I would have been in panic mode and would have put a hole in the wall,,,maybe even with the GPU .....have to control that temper

    Of course the main test is when it comes to running it but cant do much until my tubing and fittings arrive.......should have ordered a few more 45 degree ones
     
  9. Bolter01

    Bolter01 Member

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    bit late but here's mine fyi, a INNOX3 that turned out 2b a TU102 Rev.A1, everythings been cool'n'dandy for 6mths +

    DSC_0190.JPG

    sry about photo quality,

    DSC_0153.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2020
  10. OP
    OP
    Will S

    Will S Member

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    you have a few worries because these are bloody expensive and now its getting close to o/cing time for the gpu............just to see what it can do, spent about 60 mins in iRacing and the max temp was 50 degrees so time to figure out what program to use
     
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