Threadripper owners club

Discussion in 'AMD x86 CPUs and chipsets' started by TaroT, Aug 25, 2017.

  1. OP
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    TaroT

    TaroT Member

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    slide in'
    close bracket
    tighten 2 till it catches tighten 3 till it catches then 1 2 3
    it is all boards that do it but that works for me ...did it 3 times to test :)
     
  2. Neonkore

    Neonkore Member

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    There's a difference between the Foxconn mounts and the other (I forget) - there's a thread on it in the AMD forums. Seems a lot of us are having the same issue - it's nowhere like the installation videos that cooling vendors show where they simply flip and then screw it down very easily.

    My 2 and 3 screws came loose in the packaging which I thought was weird.

    Anyway, it's on now and there's no chance i'm ever taking it out again!

    In other news I accidentally touched the underside of the cpu with a small part of the back of my hand so hopefully no oil from my skin transferred....should be ok....I hope....
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
  3. OP
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    TaroT

    TaroT Member

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    ok something i dd not know what board is that? mine is the taichi. as for oil i,m pretty sure 5 minutes of prime 95 will disintegrate anything on the chip :)

    just looked at a shot of my board i took and mines a LOTES not a Foxconn...there ya go cheapest board uses the better setup :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
  4. Neonkore

    Neonkore Member

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    Yes the LOTES are the good mount! My board is the ASUS Zenith.
    I pushed so hard on the 2 screw that I slipped and almost gouged some of the trace wire on the mobo!

    That's what I'm hoping for!
     
  5. PureFire

    PureFire Member

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    Found another video to help those with difficult screws. The trick it seems is to first turn as if you are loosening, till you hear a click, the threads are now aligned, then tighten, then torque all screws in order.

     
  6. OP
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    TaroT

    TaroT Member

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    that's really weird i went looking online and the pics of the zenith i saw had the lotes...or maybe it was the prime...

    i caved in the heat today and ordered a butt load of water cooling gear...guess time will tell if i was right...and broke or wrong...angry and broke ;)
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
  7. Neonkore

    Neonkore Member

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    Absolutely you need to do that anyway, the tolerance in the mounting plate is so large that you get heaps of lateral movement, but the alignment isn't the issue, for me it was a problem of thickness.

    If I removed the CPU and just put the PNP cap back it would close up no worries. It seems the guide plate for the CPU adds a slight amount of thickness so the initial thread doesn't get a start - hence the need for a lot of force to get it to engage. It would be solved by like 0.5mm longer screws - the tension in the screw is set by the 1.5Nm torque wrench so there would be no problem with a longer screw. Just seems like a combination of manufacturing tolerances culminating in an annoying issue.

    Another thing with the Asus Zenith Extreme - there are 3 standoffs/screws for the NNMe drives, 2 are the same length for the DDR add-in card and 1 is longer for the large heatsink on the bottom right of the board, there's nothing on the package or instructions to highlight that there is a difference and if you do what I did and use the smaller standoff for the heatsink instead of the longer one the thermal pad probably wont be fully touching down the length of the drive. You won't notice because the difference is only 1.5mm but it would put the drive on a slight angle.
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2017
  8. stergiopilus

    stergiopilus Member

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    I have the MSI X399 Carbon motherboard with Lotes socket and it's also easy to engage.
     
  9. OP
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    TaroT

    TaroT Member

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    i have gone back to stock for now to do some baselines before the *probably wrong stuff* watercooling gear i ordered arrives...which also means i,ll be off for a month figuring it all out :)

    http://www.overclock.net/t/1636550/...s-club-1950x-1920x-1900x/850_50#post_26338673

    feel free to try some of those benches and see how you do.
    I was actually quite surprised how quick it was at stock especially gooseberry.
    and the temps never got above 50 a big difference to the 78 degrees @ 3900
     
  10. travtocool

    travtocool Member

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    What water cooling goodies did you end up ordering? I'm contemplating water cooling my setup also. The lack of options is frustrating to say the least....
     
  11. Neonkore

    Neonkore Member

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    Thanks for posting that.
    Post up your WC build when you're done!

    I've installed a H115i following your advice but i'm pulling the trigger on my WC parts on the weekend. Pretty much all EK stuff except for the CPU block which is the raystorm neo I linked to before - going to go hard tubing as well. Might be biting off more than I can chew for my first WC build but I like to dive in head first!
     
  12. hairy

    hairy Member

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    quick question for you guys.

    is it true most chips top out at 3.9 ?
    are you getting better fps with it running stock so 4 cores boost to 4ish ?
     
  13. OP
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    TaroT

    TaroT Member

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    http://www.overclock.net/t/1636550/...s-club-1950x-1920x-1900x/900_50#post_26340368

    well that makes 2 of use but i,m too chicken shit to try that hard tubing :) hell this is giving me panic attacks :)


    so i,ll ask the question here....now what :)
    would i have been better off getting a drain tap as well...thinking now i believe i should..and the other question how tight do the compression fittings need to be.
    once i start i won't be able to stop till its done :)


    as for the question of 3.9...no is the short answer if you can get the cooling dialed in right and get a chip that isn't a lemon 4.1/4.2 should be oable.
    mine can get to 4.1 but it simply needed to much juice and produced to much heat so when it the cooling is set up i,m sure 4.1 will be fine.

    also have a look at the thread i mentioned i ahev thrown in a pile of stock benches and games when clocked at 3.9 are a bit slower depending on the game but games like doom are faster to be honest there isn't a lot in it. 500 to 1000 points in firestrike(mostly for the physics score.
     
  14. Scarecow

    Scarecow Member

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    as someone who did a build without a drain port for his first build....get a damn drain port god damn is it a pain in the ass not having one so for your own sake make sure you have one at the lowest point on your new build and as for compression fittings, well have you ever done a garden hose onto a water gun? same deal here, you'll be able to tell by feel when its tight enough and you should be doing a 24 leak test with paper everywhere and just the pump running with everything else unplugged during this stage
     
  15. OP
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    TaroT

    TaroT Member

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    ok got it. now this pump has 2 inlets and an outlet its ok to throw the drain in the other inlet?
    and everything off we are talking installed setup but all components unplugged except the pump(i,ll plug that into a spare psu outside the case.)

    now this little ek pump has a cyclone thing and a pad to help with air bubbles or so it says should i use both the pad or the cyclone thing...
    i would have thought the pad would restrict flow.
     
  16. Neonkore

    Neonkore Member

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    I've been watching YouTube for weeks on how to bend tube etc. The compression fittings for hard tubing operate on the same principal as yours for soft tubing, general rule is finger tight and then 'a little bit' with a tool will get you the correct torque. Just make sure the o-rings are all good.

    The foam insert in the reservoir is to stop vertices forming and air being sucked into the pump. Depends on your setup but i'm assuming you've got a res/pump combo and are going to mount it vertically so you can probably just use the acrylic insert to stop the vertices if you wanted (i'm mounting my reservoir horizontally and away from my pump so i'll be using the foam insert as well).

    Yes the foam will restrict flow a little bit but the pump has like 3m of head so it won't really trouble it and you're using flexible tubing presumably without lots of hard angle adaptors which means your flow should be pretty good already.

    Get the drain valve and a screwed plug. Put it at the bottom of your loop using a Y piece or a 3 or 4 way fitting (normally off a radiator but it doesn't really matter) and make up another flexible line that can be screwed into the valve (after you remove the plug) - this way you can drain your system fully without mess. I probably wouldn't put it on the pump.
     
  17. Neonkore

    Neonkore Member

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    Finally got my system built last night - doing remote desktop through work to get everything installed - will post benchmarks later!
     
  18. OP
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    TaroT

    TaroT Member

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    pump according to the spec has 5.2 metres... so i,ll ditch the foam ...seems to me to be just another way of contaminating the loop anyway
    as for the drain the pump also has 3 ports 2 in front one in back so i,ll just use that i guess as it will be the lowest point.

    i,m off to buy a big bottle of distilled water while i,m waiting for the drain over the weekend i might just flush it all out
     
  19. Neonkore

    Neonkore Member

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    Ugh I installed AI suite and then everything seemed to bog down. I did the HPET switch off that was suggested earlier - is there anything else I should do or a full wipe and reinstall of windows or has that completely eliminated the issue?

    Got my 4 x 16GB working at 3200 - will go for 3444 tomorrow. Pretty happy so far!
     
  20. OP
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    TaroT

    TaroT Member

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    kill aisuite...with prejudice :)
    never liked that app myself and there are a few ...well a lot...of reports ogf it causing grief.
    for ram i would suggest 3333 on the ryzens at least going to 3466 usually ended up worse results than 3333 with lower timings ( i have tested that on my old ryzen and that was the case...i have not bothered going over 3200 as yet on mine
     

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