Vintage CRT Monitor Repair Thread

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade Worklogs' started by sean0118, Nov 13, 2016.

  1. badmofo

    badmofo Member

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    Indeed, the CRT situation worries me. I have a nice little 34cm Sony Trinitron telly for my C64 / SMS / etc and have been trying to track down a back-up of the same quality for years without success. The best I've been able to do so far is a 'Toyoda' brand 34cm but it looks like arse compared to the Sony.

    If my Sony dies I suspect I'll be donning some rubber boots and having a crack at fixing it :sick:
     
  2. OP
    OP
    sean0118

    sean0118 Member

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    Doing it mainly for enjoyment, but it's also good practice, being able to quickly reverse engineer, identify faults and repair electronics is relevant to my day job.

    CRT monitors are more interesting than most would expect, there's a mix of analogue, digital and high voltage.

    ;)
     
  3. Hater

    Hater Member

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    Does anyone have tips or tricks on working with CRT's?

    I'd like to modify an iMac 1,1 and use the original CRT, but replace the (dead) motherboard with something a bit more modern.

    I attempted this when I was 16 or 17, pulling a few old iMacs apart and bazapped my hand, went to hospital and everything, the CRT imploded too.

    How do I.. not do that this time?
     
  4. Flamin Joe

    Flamin Joe Member

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    Brought mine from Wagner Online in Sydney after reading about them being a local source on a 1084S repair article over at Jammarcade.net. They seem to have a good variety of older electronics parts which most other online electronic stores/suppliers don't stock.

    HR7533

    https://www.wagneronline.com.au/mon...service-repair-parts/eht7533-27066/959589/pd/

    HR7506

    https://www.wagneronline.com.au/mon...service-repair-parts/eht7506-26881/959589/pd/

    I needed the HR7506 for my 1084S-P which had to be ordered in and as a result has bumped the price up. I paid $49.95 which is what the 7533 is still selling at but I dare say will go up in price as well once out of stock. They were actually cheaper than this when I first looked at them a few months ago but I put off buying until I was ready to work on it and ended up paying more.
     
  5. Flamin Joe

    Flamin Joe Member

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    Finally got around to completing the repair on the 1084S-P and she's all good again. Video and Audio tested working. :thumbup: Sorry for the lack of progress photo's I always forget to take them when I'm so focused on what I'm doing!

    Here it is running a C64 diagnostic I was using to check the brightness/contrast/colour when adjusting the new Flyback.


    Click to view full size!


    Original plan was just to replace the Flyback + HOT (due to the Flyback having failed), recap the power supply and any other cap which looked suspect. In the end I did a full recap including replacing the line filtering cap with a modern Panasonic Polypropylene film cap. Probably unnecessary to go that far but I figured it was a good chance to give the monitor a bit of a refurb and hopefully eliminate (or at least delay for many years to come) any future problems as the components age further.

    Next into the operating theater will be my IBM 5153 which at this stage will just be a full recap. It doesn't have an issue (as far as I'm aware) however I when I first fired it up there was burning smell after about 15 minutes of use but other than that the picture was fine. It could be nothing, perhaps just a bit of dust heating up as it was in long term storage according to the previous owner, but I will check it all out just to be sure. Not sure when I'll be able to start on it as I have a few things coming up on the weekends.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
  6. flu!d

    flu!d Never perfect, always genuine

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    I've finally decided to repair my good 'ol 1084S, took a few shots along the way:

    Monitor on the bench:

    [​IMG]

    Rear cover removed:

    [​IMG]

    Flyback and tube discharged safely, HT disconnected:

    [​IMG]

    Desoldering the flyback:

    [​IMG]

    Board cleaned ready for new component:

    [​IMG]

    Coffee break:

    [​IMG]

    May as well replace the HoT while I'm at it:

    [​IMG]

    Board cleaned, awaiting replacement:

    [​IMG]

    Old parts:

    [​IMG]

    This monitor should come up schmick!
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
  7. pfrcom

    pfrcom Member

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    Love your Royel de/soldering station

    I, very reluctantly, had to supersede mine because it couldn't deal with lead-free solder on computer motherboards

    Aussie-built quality - check out its Final Test date


    Click to view full size!


    Click to view full size!
     
  8. flu!d

    flu!d Never perfect, always genuine

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    Cheers pfrcom,

    Mine's not too bad, but it also struggles at times with lead free solder - In such cases I also use my newer iron to heat the joint while desoldering.

    I'm very reluctant to retire it, I've had it for years and it's always done me well. May I ask what you replaced yours with? Is that a desoldering station or a soldering iron?

    The pump in the Royal unit is downright massive!

    [​IMG]

    I'm not too sure of the exact age of my unit, the tag's too faded. I wouldn't be surprised if it was also from ~'86 though:

    [​IMG]

    I recently had to make a new solder chamber for the vacuum iron as the old one literally fell apart. The new chamber starts as aluminium so that the solder can condense without sticking to the chamber itself, with a flare on the end to allow for easy slipping over the rubber grommet on the iron. I then used copper for the bend as copper pipe was easier to deal with and reduced the size of the fitting where the rubber grommet on the hose connects to the pipe, I attached the copper pipe to the aluminium chamber using compression fitting and covered the copper pipe with heatshrink to provide a bit of insulation - I also had to make a new clip to hold the chamber to the iron as the old one was no longer suitable.

    Works good as new now!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
  9. pfrcom

    pfrcom Member

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    My Royel's a soldering iron

    I finally ended up with a JBC CD2BE after Mektronics' Feb-2016 Focus-JBC month, and I treated myself

    Prior to that was an Altronics T2380 (rebadged Xytronic LF-1000)

    Click to view full size!


    Its heating element failed and Altronics couldn't supply a replacement - nor could anyone else, including international

    https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/mel-aus-seek-xytronic-heater-element-79-210012-for-soldering-handpiece-sia100kt/
     
  10. flu!d

    flu!d Never perfect, always genuine

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    That looks nice, a replacement for the Royel with a modern quality that looks like it will stand the test of time. Very nice! Wouldn't mind one of those myself.
     
  11. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    Definitely agreed. I know a few folks who have the philosophy that they only replace what's absolutely necessary to make the unit work right now. Whether their goal is less work, less chance of breaking something else by accident, or attempting to keep hardware original, I don't know.

    But I think the goal with CRTs is to ensure their lifespan is as long as possible, which means necessarily and preemptively replacing parts BEFORE they die. The death of certain components inside a CRT can in some cases damage other nearby components, making the situation worse. Not to mention the quality of components we can get today for quite low prices is great, compared to what was available 1-2 decades ago. A few well chosen part replacements while you're in there switching stuff out anyway can add another flawless decade of operation to the unit.
     
  12. nimmers

    nimmers Member

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    Do you mean Jomac? His reasoning is here:

    http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/9261-Cap-Kits
     
  13. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    Wasn't specifically talking about Jomac, as he knows his shit inside out and backwards. I certainly agree with all his points.

    I think I should have added context that replacing a few extra parts is a good idea *if you know what you're doing*. I 100% agree with his criticism of blind shotgun approaches to fixing things when people don't do basic diagnosis first. But if you're familiar with the unit, and know in advance common faults that crop up in certain areas of the board, no harm in replacing things that you have a pretty good idea are due to die in a couple of years anyway.

    I've had Jomac fix a couple of arcade monitor chassis for me. One in particular was in pretty bad shape (I'm pretty sure I got it third hand, and you could see the hack job a previous owner had done). Still, he did a ripper job of finding the fault and fixing it up quickly.
     
  14. flu!d

    flu!d Never perfect, always genuine

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    Working on the control cover hinge on my 1084S while I wait for my flyback to arrive. The HoT has already arrived and is soldered in place. Is there a single 1084S in existence where this hinge isn't broken?

    That steel is so hard that I can't cut it with a hacksaw and it took a tungsten carbide drill bit to drill the hole.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. flu!d

    flu!d Never perfect, always genuine

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    New flyback and HOT installed, flyback adjusted and all reassembled, good as new!

    [​IMG]
     
  16. OP
    OP
    sean0118

    sean0118 Member

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    Great work! Looking good. :thumbup:
     
  17. flu!d

    flu!d Never perfect, always genuine

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    Cheers my friend! I'm loving it, so much clearer than the LCD I had connected to it via composite.
     
  18. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    Several insanely in-depth videos about the inner workings of CRTs, and basic trouble shooting guides.







     
    flu!d likes this.
  19. flu!d

    flu!d Never perfect, always genuine

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    Hoping to get my work done early today so I can kick back with a coffee and watch these, good job Elvis.:thumbup:
     
  20. bYrd

    bYrd Member

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    Jomac is the best - a few years ago I paid for a 14" arcade monitor chassis and somehow the payment never got to him, I owned that chassis for a good 12 months, gratis, until we both realised :)

    Unfortunately the universal chassis for smaller CRTs are no longer available, but I'm so pleased I could fix up my LAI cocktail fully without having to resort to evil LCD all this time ago. The CRT isn't perfect, its been tweaked to the edge of it's life and still a bit blurry, but still manages to look good.

    JB
     

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