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Water cooling Algae in new loop?

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by truongsters, Nov 23, 2021.

  1. truongsters

    truongsters New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2021
    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Sydney
    Hi everyone, pretty new to new custom water cooling parts bought indivudally.(Got a kit last time)
    I've recently completed a built - Late September. The Parts are below.
    • EK Velocity CPU Waterblock AMD Nickel Plexi
    • EK Quantum Kinetic TBE 300 D5 D-RGB Reservoir Pump Combo Acetal
    • EK Quantum Torque 6-Pack STC 12/16 Black
    • EK-AF Classic Angled 90 Black
    • EK DuraClear 7/16ID 5/8OD Tubing 3m
    • EKWB EK-CoolStream CE 280 Dual Radiator
    • EKWB EK-CoolStream PE Classic 360mm Medium Copper Radiator
    • EKWB EK-AF Angled 2×45° G1/4 Black Adapter Fitting
    • EKWB EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black Adapter Fitting
    • EK Quantum Torque Plug Black
    • EK Quantum Torque Micro Plug Black
    • EK AF Extender 6mm M-M G1/4 Black
    • EK Quantum Flow Indicator D-RGB Black
    • Gigabyte Waterforce 3080 (Rev1.0) WB version (Confirmed it's nickel-plated copper)
    The coolant I'm using is the EKWB EK-CryoFuel Clear Premix 1000mL Coolant. I've flushed the loop twice with distilled water prior to filling it with the coolant.

    I've noticed that some of the tubes are going a bit green (See pics below) and there is a build-up of what I believe is corrosion on some of the blocks.

    I have a few questions that I'm not sure on;

    1. Can I confirm that I need to take everything apart and wash it clean?
    2. Ideally, I would prefer not to so I was thinking of flushing it with 5% vinegar and distilled water prior to replacing the coolant. Does this work as an alternative?
    3. For the prevention of future growth, is it worthwhile putting a strip of a Silver coil in the loop?
    4. The images below, That's corrosion right? I'm not sure what in the loop is causing it.
    Images here, let me know if you need any further images.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. jekel

    jekel Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2004
    Messages:
    1,014
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I personally think your issue is the EKWB EK-CryoFuel Clear. I base this off I used the same in a few builds and had similar build up, I've come to the conclusion it is just a crap coolant and stay away from it.

    I now use https://www.ple.com.au/Products/627814/Mayhems-XT-1-Nuke-Clear-250ml-Concentrate , this has been awesome and has not caused me any issues.

    Cleaning wise I'm not sure a flush with fix it all, may have to open and scrub with a toothbrush..........I'm no expert on that though. In my case I opened/scrubbed the blocks, threw out my tubing and swapped over to ZMT which I wanted anyway.
     
  3. AllezAllez

    AllezAllez Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2017
    Messages:
    301
    The film on the water block is the coolant. Usually it take a bit of time for it to build up like that though so it seems like you drew the short straw.
    (By take some time, I'd say something like 6 months + for EK)

    The green stuff I couldn't say but I'm skeptical it's algae. The environment in there isn't very conducive to algal growth. You've got plenty of metal and biocide in there with not much to feed on. It's probably just gunk from the radiators. EK radiators in my limited experience are very dirty inside. The algae inside the loop issue is almost a myth. Think of how much copper is in your radiator...

    So ideally you want to drain it and opening it all up.
    - Scrub it out and flush those radiators again. Distilled water is not enough for flushing. I put a few kettles worth of boiling water through (please wear gloves! the radiator will get very hot very quickly) with plenty of soap. Just flush with cold tap water until no soap comes out (ballpark 10 flushes to be sure).
    - Avoid the silver coil. It's super out dated advice and actually EK advise against it. Personally it doesn't make sense to me given the prior point about algae.
    - Scrub out the tubing with paper towel. All soft tubing tends to absorb colour and react to coolant to a degree. It might be good to just use new. I don't have any rec aside from Mayhems which worked well for me. EK clear was fine but it's been a while since I used it so no strong rec.
     
    truongsters likes this.
  4. OP
    OP
    truongsters

    truongsters New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2021
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Sydney
    Thanks a lot. I'll scrub out the system and source myself some Mayhems. Seems to be out of stock everywhere.

    Any advice on the cleaning and scrubbing, I'm guessing a soft toothbrush, Avoid alcohol on the aryclic and no acid on any of the blocks? Should I use some form of soap?
     
  5. jekel

    jekel Member

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    Messages:
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    Scrubbed my blocks gently with a soft toothbrush and distilled water, I didn't use any other cleaning agent. Seemed enough for me and build up didn't come back with Mayhems.
     
    AllezAllez likes this.
  6. AllezAllez

    AllezAllez Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2017
    Messages:
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    Yup - toothbrush for the blocks. Soap and rinse well.

    Personally I'd scrub out the tubing and give it one more go. Try not to change too much in 1 go.

    Most water cooling stuff is so heavily marketed that people lose perspective - I wouldn't surprise me one bit if the companies changed suppliers and bought whatever allotment was cheapest at the time. Plastic tubing isn't rocket science - what we buy a water cooling gear isn't far off what is available at Bunnings. It's just a slightly nicer and more flexible product.
     
  7. cvidler

    cvidler Member

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    I use pure distilled water and some silver.

    my loops stay together and clean for YEARS.

    anything else is IMHO a gimmick to steal more of your money.
     
  8. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    I've seen the green before, only ever in clear and white tubing and from a few vendors (PrimoChill, EK, and don't remember - bulk roll). I called it plasticiser at the time (you could see a very fine layer on the inside of the tubing in my case) but it may also be something to do with how they manufacture translucent tubing, or even just UV penetrating and in contact with coolant and/or tubing. The fact I've only seen it in translucent or light-coloured tubes got me thinking it may be related to UV reacting with something in the coolant - I've seen it in both distilled water (with biocide) and the commercially-available Polyethylene glycol premixes.

    If it was solely UV-related, I think you'd see it on the outside as well - the fact you only see it at the interaction site between coolant and tubing says it relies on one or both.

    Insides of other tubing (red, gloss black, ZMT) showed nothing despite being run in the same rig at the same conditions in the same room in the same light. You get my point.

    It was a pain in the ass to remove - long-handled bottlebrush was a little bit effective, bit better again with vinegar. In the end I binned all the tube - not worth the effort.

    Agree with all the above otherwise on cleaning - toothbrush and water, then if water doesn't work very mild vinegar solution or tomato sauce - noting that either of these will dull your plate if you leave them on too long. If the look of your waterblock plating is paramount, stick to water and just use the extra elbow grease.
     
  9. The Beast

    The Beast Member

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    I agree 100% with your assessment. Matches my experience.

    Always bin tubing that exhibits that kind of discolouration, you can't save it and you're better off switching brands to stuff that is more stable. I would have thought the EK tubing would be pretty good, but you never know what it's reacting with in this case.

    I've had good results with PrimoChill when I used to use soft tubing. Best results with hard tubing though, it just doesn't discolour and is very stable (I used Corsair 14mm).
     
    juzz86 likes this.

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