Watercooling Collective Sticky

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by zeropluszero, Aug 14, 2010.

  1. Gamelife

    Gamelife Member

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    Thank you for the responses friends.

    looking to case it all into a NZXT H440 or a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv along with a 1700x + gtx1070 setup.
    i believe i won't get as much of a benefit o/c water vs air-wise with those parts compared to other higher spec'd items but as metioned, have that hankering to build something watercooled. *bucketlisted
    was only looking to do the CPU for now but will eventually move to both GPU as well. (unless that's bad to have mixed? liquid-cpu and air-gpu)

    did read up about the aluminium mixed compound kits but noticed most kits in that price point (rl240) are all aluminium alloy/mix.
    the radiator has zinc as stated above but the ek-Supremacy block is also an aluminium faceplate (please correct if wrong, but the whole ek fluidgaming kits are all aluminum alloy?)
    also was originally leaning towards the thermaltake kit as it looked the most user-friendly to setup and the w1 block has the am4 bracket like the fluidgaming ones.

    still weighing up the options at this stage so i don't stuff it up so i appreciate all the input.

     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2017
  2. Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    Sorry mate, didn't notice this post until now. Maintenance? I've never actually left a loop untouched long enough to perform any. I generally give stuff a good flush whenever I make changes.
    If you are using pure water and a silver coil, it could be years until you need to perform any maintenance. Occasionally you may need a slight topup in the res, but a leak free system takes a long time to lose water. Probably only need a 50ml topup every few months, if that.

    If on the other hand you are using dyes, then you might want to perform maintenance annually IMHO. The hoses will stain, the dye will affect the plastics in the hose, and you may get waterblocks with little bits of dissolved plastisiser in them. New hose and a flush doesn't take long, unless you are going with hardline tube.

    A further scenario would be if you are using Pastel colours. These can block stuff, I'd personally be giving it all a good flush at least every 6 months if you are using Pastel. Probably a good idea to replace the hoses while you are at it, hose is cheap.
     
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  3. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    Having built in both those cases - give them a miss for a proper loop mate. Neither of them breathe well enough to dissipate the heat properly without panels off. They're not built for high-performance cooling.

    With regards to the metals - I didn't mean to confuse you, sorry. The issue arises from mixing metals of different types. All Aluminium (alloy) isn't a problem by itself, which is why the EK FG gear seems the best fit. By the time you put a Thermaltake kit together you've got a Zn/Al radiator and Cu/Ni waterblocks - not ideal, you then rely on the coolant to do more 'heavy lifting' in preventing corrosion.
     
  4. fleetfeather

    fleetfeather Member

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    Fully recognise that watercooling is an expensive proposition, but I'd still try steer clear of mixed metal kits - regardless of how much faith the retail company puts in its anticorrosive coolants. It could well end up costing you more in the long run anyway.

    Also, plenty of reviews on Newegg explaining how the reservoir in that Thermaltake kit is prone to cracking and leaking fluid. Sounds annoying to manage/replace at best, and an unfortunate way to lose a graphics card at worst.

    Heard good things about the EK Fluid Gaming kits, but it's very annoying that they wont sell you individual allumium rads to expand the kit for better heat transfer...
     
  5. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    They do now champ, apparently!
     
  6. fleetfeather

    fleetfeather Member

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    Oh, well, go with the fluid gaming gear then! Easy choice if you're on a budget
     
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  7. milkguru

    milkguru Member

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    FWIW, I've gone 2+ years without changing my fluid. Was running distilled water w/ mayhems biocide and dye. Only maintenance i did was topping up the reservoir every so often when it got a little too low. When I finally took everything apart for a clean, it was fine. CPU block had a bit of gunk in it, nothing too major. GPU and mobo blocks had some dye deposited on them (and I assume everything else in the loop - but those were the only clear ones that i could see in. most of it came off pretty easily with a toothbrush.
     
  8. Gamelife

    Gamelife Member

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    thank you for the advice and information sir.
    apologies for noobness, still fairly new to the world of water-cooling.

    will probably flag the idea for now and build up something temporary until that day comes when i get the proper parts and info.
    really liking the EkFG A240, may look into that one more so eventually.

    appreciate the replies. :thumbup:
     
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  9. bennyg

    bennyg Member

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    From what I've read, pump tops for the MCP655 and Laing D5 are interchangeable?

    (I have a MCP655 that is prone to cavitation from the dual 5 1/4" bay res thing it's in and I would rather switch to a bigger standalone res)

    And what about DC-LT? Are there any other current pumps/rebrands that are the same and where the tops will fit that?
     
  10. Ratzz

    Ratzz Member

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    I'd be surprised if there are many, if any, clones of the DC-LT. The bare pump is an inch across and less than half an inch high. Also quite cheap, not much point in bothering I'd have thought. Tops for DC-LT are getting harder to find too, along with the pumps themselves. I've only ever seen Alphacool tops for DC-LT personally, but there may have been others.

    Yes, MCP655, Liang, EK, all D5's are the same. Some have dial speed control, some use power signal, but all will fit anything designed for a D5 style pump.
     
  11. fleetfeather

    fleetfeather Member

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    The DC-LT is an Alphacool exclusive pump. There is only one pump top for it, made by alphacool.

    PCCG used to sell them (that's where I bought mine), but these days I think amazon is your best bet
     
  12. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    No need for an apology mate, that's what we hang out here for. Been silly and stubborn enough to waste a lot of money despite good advice, always happy to help if I can, as are the other guys who've been in it far longer than I :thumbup:
     
  13. Adevoi

    Adevoi New Member

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    Noob question but i am getting an alphacool eisstation with alphacools version of the d5 (vpp 755 i think they call it). I want to add a second d5 to the loop as a backup (cant afford for a single pump to fail). System will be gpu outflow, y connector, route 1 vario d5, route 2 eisstation, y connector, rad, gpu inflow.
    I am not sure what i need for the backup d5. I am just connecting tubing to its in and out ports, do i need a pump top or can i just get a 'barebones' d5?
    Other option is something like an arduino board detecting water temp in the reservoir, and if it hits say 90 deg indicating single pump failure then shut system down-has anyone built such a unit?
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2018
  14. havabeer

    havabeer Member

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    You computer willl alread turn its self off it it gets too hot, I think you can even set this figure in most bios’s if you want to make it something more conservative.

    You need a pump top, it’s what has the “in and out ports” on it. I think you’re being overally cautious with wanting a back up pump.
     
  15. Adevoi

    Adevoi New Member

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    Thanks, i havent found any way (yet) how to shutdown at temp=x in bios for msi x299 tomahawk (running linux so dont have the msi windows settings). Ill keep searching.
     
  16. kickmic

    kickmic Member

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    Keeping the FT02 alive with an upgrade to CL

    [​IMG]
     

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