Watercooling... under the house?!

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by Kommandant33, Nov 20, 2020.

  1. Kommandant33

    Kommandant33 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Messages:
    4,278
    Location:
    Cheltenham VIC
    Oh, see - Ay You!

    I have had an idea floating around in my head for a while...

    I currently have my PC set up in the lounge room, an x99 system with a 2080Ti all under water (360+240), and because water cooling is so efficient at removing heat from the chips, it all gets dumped out in the room - and in summer it's like having an oil heater going which is not ideal.

    I also have a MoRa3 sitting in the cupboard waiting for the next project - and I was thinking...

    What about setting it up UNDER the house, running copper pipe/hose from it up the wall, and having some QDC ports on a wall plate near where my computer is situated (also with USB pass through for fan power/corsair commander mini fan controller/temp sensor)
    This way I can dump most of the heat under the house, and there will be less hot air around the rest of my components in my system (not to mention being able to downsize on my case not having to worry about fitting in rads)

    My initial concerns with the idea are:
    • Where would the pump go? In the PC will be better as I won't have to run molex power with the tube under the house - but would it be better having the pump at the lowest point under the house?
    • Cleaning the RAD would be a PITA as it would involve having to get under the house
    • Not having quick visual connection with the rad/fans
    • A LOT of tube, and possibly a LOT of sharp angles
    Has anyone else done anything like this before? I know there was one dude that ran some copper pipe through his slab when he built his house which was cool...
     
    mad_mic3, Bolter01 and juzz86 like this.
  2. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    Messages:
    1,709
    Location:
    Forth, NW TAS
    Do it mate - I'm going this route in the next house which we'll (hopefully) own!

    The way I see it going at this end:

    - My theory is that you'll need 12V to the radiator for a fan/s anyway, so pump may as well live down there as well - no pump noise inside that way.
    - Mora, fans, pump under the house, fed with 12V from a brick PSU with an inline kill switch. Fans on hardware RPM monitor (fan controller).
    - Tubes up into house - hardline copper a possibility for a really long run. Good brazing practice?
    - Reservoir, fan controller and pair of QDCs in a cabinet at house in-feed, so you don't need to go under the house to refill. No access unless hardware failure.
    - Plumb into PC as normal from cabinet.

    Alternatively, I've also considered a 'ring main' sort of setup with the geothermal coil - if I ever have to pull ground up, there'll definitely be a coil going down.
    In this setup, the MORA and fans are replaced with the coil as per old mate's original setup. Instead of plumbing the coil into a pair of QDCs as above though, I think I'd go with a Plate Heat Exchanger (HEX) so I could run a glycol-based coolant through the coil for the wider working temp range outside, but keep the distilled water in the PCs.
    The coil-side pump runs full-time to prevent blockage and freezing. Hardline plumbed into the house and the HEX.
    HEX and reservoir for each side live in the cabinet, PC-side pump also lives here.
    PC-side pump fired on a remote trigger, or with the PC - depends on distance.

    With the coil setup, to bring the cooling to another location you just plumb in another entry/exit point on the coil-side and put another HEX there (no reservoir) - then run a separate PC-side loop for that PC, with reservoir and pump.

    So basically the glycol flows in the coil full-time, and each PC-side setup just fires up as-needed. You do need a HEX for each in/out from the coil, unless you extend the PC-side loop rather than the coil-side - but then you're dumping all your heat into the PC-side loop rather than the coil-side, and may max out the HEX transfer capacity if you're running a few loaded rigs at once.

    Poor diagram to illustrate a bit better:

    [​IMG]
     
    mad_mic3 and Kommandant33 like this.
  3. merlin13

    merlin13 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2003
    Messages:
    2,080
    Location:
    back in BrizVegas
    Not a catastrophically silly idea, assuming your under-house temps remain low enough in Summer to make it effective and the heat you'd be dumping doesn't eventually warm everything up underneath.

    That's assuming you don't set up active loop cooling downstairs...

    Few (!) ago, not sure if it was posted in here or on Atomic, but a bloke down in Tas went rather serious and embedded his water loop in the concrete slab the house he was building.
     
    Kommandant33 likes this.
  4. shane41

    shane41 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2008
    Messages:
    6,829
    Location:
    dice que no sabe
    Bury a water tank in the ground. 1000 litre same as the farmers use for insecticide. $20 -50 used. Radiator never needed
     
    money_killer and Kommandant33 like this.
  5. OP
    OP
    Kommandant33

    Kommandant33 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Messages:
    4,278
    Location:
    Cheltenham VIC
    Brilliant idea - I will have to come back and do some more reading on the plate heat exchanger idea, but that looks like a very interesting idea.

    It is cool under the house, and there is a LOT of space at the front as its built on a slight hill - the bricks and soil under the house would absorb a fair bit of heat before it starts getting too hot I would imagine?

    Not a bad idea - except for having to clean out the loop with all the scunge that grows in there. The other idea would be to have a big water tank, and then have a massive coil of copper in there that the loop runs through, that way you can run your DI water and biocide in the loop, and have the tank fill up with rain water...
     
    juzz86 likes this.
  6. merlin13

    merlin13 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2003
    Messages:
    2,080
    Location:
    back in BrizVegas
    Depends how much heat you're going to be dumping and whether where you are has ambient heat cycles 'tween Summer 'n Winter that can cycle environmental cooling under there as well. Admittedly the underfloor mass of brick etc will take some serious thermal input to give you any grief, but...

    That's also assuming the heat also doesn't actually rise up under your flooring and create a hot spot per se, in a position where you really don't want a warm spot. Not many houses here in Oz have insulated floors...
     
  7. shane41

    shane41 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2008
    Messages:
    6,829
    Location:
    dice que no sabe
    How? Shit needs sunlight to grow. Add your coolant of choice/ inhibitor and keep a alkaline pH
     
  8. @sia@home

    @sia@home Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2002
    Messages:
    2,480
    I've been thinking about this for a few years, ie the QDC wall plate, piping etc. The water tank, the underground coils, a 9x120 or 9x140mm radiator under the house. A small car radiator under the house. I the end I bought multiple 360mm and 420mm radiators and high end 140mm fans failed to fit it all in a reasonable form factor.

    Lately I keep coming back to getting a Cloudray S&A CW5200.

    The pro's
    • The chiller is equipment that is sale-able to someone into laser cutting if it doesn't work out.
    • 1400W cooling capacity
    • 6L water tank
    • Supports an external thermo couple input and delta temperature control mode so you can program the set point to be ambient -5 degrees
    • Air-condition the PC room to 22 degrees and then set your loop water temperature it 17 degees in summer
    • The noise is outside
    The con's
    • Electrical safety?
    • IP rating / weatherproof concerns
    • 900W power draw when running at full tilt
    • Is it an inverter compressor?
    • Noise
    • Overkill when you're not running 500-600W into your water loop
     
  9. im late

    im late Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2012
    Messages:
    1,711
    Location:
    Canning Vale WA 6155
    Concept is great. If it was me doing it I like doing things simple and as such, would just have the rad under the house.

    I would buy those IP65 waterproof noctua fans, and the reason for this is that every now and then I would grab the garden hose and hose pressure wash the rad and fans of dirt and dust (tap garden water pressure is not enough pressure to damage fans or rad fins). I don’t wanna be going under the house to clean fans and rad. Plus the noctua reliability in those high end fans means less likely they will fail.

    When I was benching, I had my bench table and pump/res on the desk and the morad on the ground, thus pump was higher than the rad and there was no negative impact to water flow.

    I would also use a Pwm D5, or two.

    Some people may disagree with my choice of hardware (due to costly fans), but this is how I would do it.
     
    Kommandant33 likes this.
  10. im late

    im late Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2012
    Messages:
    1,711
    Location:
    Canning Vale WA 6155
    For a time I did run the morad with no fans for passive cooling and the load temps we still great, that might be an even simpler option if you are not after outright lower temps?

    Also I would leave a temp prob under the house first (on a hot day) to see if the environment where you wish to place the rad has reasonable temps? I would assume cooler under the house compared to your room temp, but still would be interesting to check.
     
    Kommandant33 likes this.
  11. Sven76

    Sven76 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2002
    Messages:
    1,400
    Location:
    Bundaberg
    Kommandant33, juzz86 and Agg like this.
  12. OP
    OP
    Kommandant33

    Kommandant33 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Messages:
    4,278
    Location:
    Cheltenham VIC
  13. havabeer

    havabeer Member

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2010
    Messages:
    6,089
    you need to add to your "con" list:
    lack of portabilty

    depending how much slack you put in your lines from the wall plate to your box will determin how much you can move your box.
     
    Kommandant33 likes this.
  14. OP
    OP
    Kommandant33

    Kommandant33 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Messages:
    4,278
    Location:
    Cheltenham VIC
    These are cons that I can live with if it means less heat in the room - for example my current rig hasn't moved in probably a year - and the last time was to put in a new GFX card.. but it is definitely something to consider - you will want to leave a bit of slack, but you also don't so much that it can kink and cause flow issues.
     
  15. @sia@home

    @sia@home Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2002
    Messages:
    2,480

    I believe you would put qdc drip free connections at the wall plate and also at the back of the PC to ease service. But yes moving the of will be a pain
     
  16. OP
    OP
    Kommandant33

    Kommandant33 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Messages:
    4,278
    Location:
    Cheltenham VIC
    And you can have a 3x120mm RAD with QDC's that can work as the "portable" alternative
     
    juzz86 likes this.
  17. merlin13

    merlin13 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2003
    Messages:
    2,080
    Location:
    back in BrizVegas
    Well, technically it IS under the house... ;)

    And Yup, that's the one I was also thinking of. Well caught, that man.
     

Share This Page

Advertisement: