I couldn't find a thread just for sharing 3D prints we are working on, so... here we are. Where possible you should list the following information so people can see what you're working with or where to get a copy of the file (if it's shared/shareable). 3D Printer Model: Filament: Design Software: Slicer: Source/Shared STL: ******************************
To keep that first thread nice and clean, and to start things off: My last project, inspired by this thread is a new side panel for my Cooler Master NL400 to better extract the GPU heat. I've noticed the glass just above the GPU gets warm and while the GPU (Inno3D RTX 3070 X2 OC) is undervolted and temps are no longer an issue... well I have a 3D printer and some time on my hands so here we are Four panels, screwed together will small brackets and a 140mm fan (not quite where I was planning... but this is part of the process I suppose). Done in pieces because the bed of the Ender 3 isn't larger enough to do this in one pass. Printing these ones I went away from the default standard of 0.2mm in Cura as it was going to take 11 hours for each panel, instead I used some fast printing settings from Makers Muse printing at 0.3mm, 10% infill, 100mm/s and only two shell walls. (I've called the profile quick and dirty) This doesn't have to be strong (although is feels pretty good) and isn't really detailed, so this worked really well. Designed to match the honeycomb pattern of the case and printed in white to allow the RGB to reflect off/through. I'm still not 100% on the white vs printing in black. If I were to turn the RGB off, black all the way... With it on... well, maybe I print one panel in black and see how it looks. I'm very much still learning, but TinkerCAD is still more powerful than me... so this will do for now. All the screw holes in the large panels are drilled rather than printed because I wasn't confident in my ability to align them just right, although the little brackets were printed with holes that worked fine. I only just finished putting it together and haven't done any testing yet if it makes SFA difference, but before I had it test fitted when there were only three panels done and without the fan and while gaming you could clearly feel the heat coming out the side. This fan is one I had laying about and is non RGB, if it stays like this I might replace it to get rid of that dark spot... maybe. 3D Printer Model: Ender 3 V2 Filament: Fahsion 3D generic white. Design Software: TinkerCAD Slicer: Cura 4.8.0 Source/Shared STL: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/ebupbJ5zEml
Been slowly building up my modelling skills, threw together an enclosure for my WLED setup. Something to house the PSU and controller (NodeMCU/Wemos D1 Mini). 3D Printer Model: Creality CR10s Pro Filament: 3DFillies PLA Silk Red Design Software: Fusion 360 Slicer: Cura 4.8 Got some more things to add still but pretty satisfied with the result. Would love to implement a locking mechanism for the lid, it's just a sliding lid at the moment. As well as countersinking the screw holes for the power supply and adding some more mount points for PSU (only attached on the side at the moment). Maybe integrating the RPI to bring together my Hyperion setup.
I just got my first 3D printer yesterday! Purchased from the forums here and still learning the ropes. It's a lot to take in and there's so much to learn about. Got myself an Ender 3 V2 at a very good price and of course, ran a benchy. First time doing anything 3D print related and did the manual bed levelling. I found putting the filament into the bowden tube difficult but that should come with practice I'm happy at the least I didn't botch the whole thing up and turned out quite well, albeit with some minor imperfections when you look really close up. 3D Printer Model: Creality Ender 3 v2 Filament: PLA - not sure what brand. Design Software: NA Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.8 I've no clue what I did in terms of configurations. Simply loaded up the STL's from thingiverse into Ultimaker Cura, sliced, left all the settings and just copied the GCode to the SD card and presto! Will be lots to learn how different settings will alter the results.
My wifes phone case has a pop socket built into it, her car has a matching mount. My phone has a magnetic mount... I've tried a couple of pop sockets but they don't seem to want to stay stuck to my leather case. I could buy a new case (and new mounting solution for my car to match hers... or use my toys to make my own I did do a test print of the Pop socket bit first and modified it to fit, second test print went great so I moved onto the full holder. This fits an iPhone 11 Pro Max with Apple Leather Case, I was tempted to make one of those gravity holder type things like this, but I want it to be portrait rather than landscape (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3681512). Version 1 (on the left) was my being lazy, a quick and dirty square design since it doesn't need to be pretty. As it turns out we are now calling that another "test print" It was *fractionally* too narrow and was pushing the side buttons in on the phone (which caused it to start its emergency call procedure). I tried dremelling down the side to make more space the used that to measure for V2. Version 2 on the right is slightly wider, filleted everywhere, shorter and has the mount moved down to lift the phone up higher. The new one is much much better and works well enough. If I was to do a V3, I'd give it another millimetre or so on the inside as it's still quite snug, but it works now. The sides are also still slightly too high as well and touch the buttons, but not enough to actually depress them like it was in V1. Strangely, the layer transition seems to move all over the shop for V2 where V1 must be hidden on a corner as there isn't a mark on it. In reality, you will see zero of this when it is being used so I'm not concerned. I learnt how to do a bunch of new things in Tinkercad which is also great!
Printing and assembling bits of my HevORT DIY printer. Here’s one of 3x Z-axis motor/ball-screw mounts….
3D Printing for today includes a Cheshire Cat for the doorway of our bedroom... in Luminous Glow-In-Dark filament of course (eSUN PLA Luminous Glow-In-Dark)
I’m still a 3D printing newbie but I tried to print with this same filament days ago. I changed the nozzle to .6... it mostly wouldn’t extract or curl up at the tip. Finally got it flowing then couldn’t get it to stick to the bed on both pei or textured. After a few hours and metres of wasted filament, I gave up.
Magigoo For the Win !!!! Magigoo Ive switched all 7 printers over to glass beds and goo for now... just giving me the results i need to fill orders. Flexi beds are good ! but glass and goo give me the most consistent results.
'Wet' filament can have issues with printing and first layer adhesion as well. Did you just open the packet on the filament? If you heat up the hotend then extrude 100mm or so, is the extrusion nice and smooth or are there some bubble marks?
nah I haven't. I've only ever used PLA and PETG before this which were all fine. I'll check it out but Never heard of this but will check it out. Seems a bit pricey? Is it just a glorified glue stick or much more than that? It was a brand new sealed roll. Clean and smooth. I did experience some bubbles with crappy ebay samples, but this was definitely not bubbling. The filament looked good except the bed adhesion and curling (which couldv'e been my nozzle)
It works! ive used it on spring steel too , one application lasts for at least 5-10 prints, ive done maybe 50 applications and maybe half way thru the bottle. ive used uhu and hair spray too!
personally, I havent printed PLA in ages. I use Kapton tape when printing ABS and PETG. If you look after it, an application of Kapton tape lasts 1 - 2 rolls.
I'd still consider myself new to the game, I'm running the Ender 3 v2 and am using nothing extra but the stock bed and have it sticking down most of the time, although randomly it decides it just doesn't want to stick. Filament always comes out clean so I don't think it's moisture and often a second go at the same print just works fine. Lots of testing, poking and experimenting and I still don't know why some things work perfectly and others fail terribly or why I get random issues with layer adhesion or shifting or any number of other things... yet mostly thing come out OK... I've recently pulled the whole thing down and rebuilt it ensuring everything is straight and tight and it seems to be better, but still not 100% consistent. More poking I suppose.
4 of my 7 printers are upgraded ender v2's great workhorses but not in the same league as the biqu b1's. Sounds like you might be a victim of the dreaded 4.2.2 stepper driver studder. Causing all sorts of random shit in my prints. Upgrading to 4.2.7 boards fixed this prob for me on 2 of my enders. Some have fixed it with better board cooling direct over the drivers. But in most cases it's a temp fix. I honestly dont rate the glass ender beds... they just loose adhesion over time. So i flip and use goo. Enders are an ok printer and can bang out some amazing prints stock. But there are better out there now for much less.
U could try this upgrade a simple print turns the printer almost silent and adds great cooling to the psu and main board.
