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What retro activity did you get up to today?

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade' started by adz, Jan 28, 2014.

  1. Pierre32

    Pierre32 Member

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    Oct 13, 2019
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    Sydney
    Got an optical PS/2 mouse up and running on the DOS tower (replacing the old serial ball mouse). The mobo has a PS/2 header but I didn't have the original plug assembly. Thankfully I had one with a matching header in the pile - I just had to re-jig the pinout. I am very pleased with myself.
     
    elvis likes this.
  2. /invariance\

    /invariance\ Member

    Joined:
    May 23, 2012
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    963
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    Brisbane
    Picked up Microsoft Natural Multimedia Keyboard 1.0 a few years ago and finally got around to cleaning out previous users filth.
    It wasn't too bad as it was ex-office, but I don't feel slightly repulsed using it now.
    Also sprayed dry PTFE on the keycap shafts when assembling and feels even nicer now.
    I feel the old Microsoft keyboards have a reasonable feel for a rubber dome.
     
    FIREWIRE1394, adz and MUTMAN like this.
  3. okclock123

    okclock123 Member

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    Oct 27, 2016
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    Location:
    Sydney


    Playing some games on a CRT powered by RTX 2080 :D. This is the lousiest screen I have! I think I love it the most though. Reflects how I remember PCs from the 90s.
     
    Vanne, adz, WuZMoT and 3 others like this.
  4. Flamin Joe

    Flamin Joe Member

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    I've been wanting for quite some time to find a better way to manage all my retro Computers which are either in various states of repair or are not on display in my play area. As I've had it for quite some time my Computers have been scattered around the house, either piled under my display area or hidden in various areas around my workbench in my garage. I really found this was an issue keeping track of everything and as the saying goes, "out of sight, out of mind".

    20181006_080718.jpg
    Just the one you can see here but there's more hidden atop out of picture.

    20191211_063036.jpg
    My stockpile of Atari PC's, really not ideal to have them stacked up hidden away.

    20181006_080401.jpg
    Another one feeling lonely in front of my Big PC Collection.

    So I started work on the idea of having everything located in my garage where my workbench already exists, but moving my workbench to a different location in the garage and then buying MORE Rack It Shelving from Bunnings because I just don't have enough already. :lol:

    I had a few concens though as since my garage faces directly to the morning sun so it can get quite hot in there. As we all know heat can do bad things to plastic so I wanted to see if there was something I could do to curb this so I set about getting some foam insulation for the garage door. I found a local supplier who specialises in this and he cut me pieces to the specifications I provided him and they were a perfect fit. Installation too was a breeze.

    20200218_075623.jpg

    The result? It made a HUGE difference to the amount of heat which radiates into the garage. It's amazing that such a simple thing makes a big difference to the amount of heat that is allowed to pass through. Previously on a really hot day if you walked towards the door you'd probaby get about half way and you'd start to get hit by a wall of heat. Now you have to walk right up to the door before you start to feel the slightest bit of heat. :thumbup:

    Next thing was to tackle the lights in the garage which is something I really overlooked for another factor, UV Light! Flourescent tubes can emit a fair amount of UV Light which in hindsight explains some of the yellowing I saw on old VGA monitor I had stored in the garage. Previously I had it in my display/play area for quite some time which has a LED bulb in the room but after moving it the yellowing came fairly quickly.

    So I brought two of these direct LED replacements for batton type flourescent tubes from Bunnings to replace the four flourescents. Not only do they give my peace of mind but save me power costs too. :thumbup:

    4 x 1200 lumen 32W Flourescents = 128W in total
    2 x 2200 lumen 16W LED's = 32W in total :leet:

    Now to the move + shelving. To make this all possible I had to move my workbench which previously was on the wall directly opposite to the garage door to the side of the garage next to where my car sits. Then after that I went into Bunnings once again and got the extra shelving which slotted in right next to my workbench which previously was free standing. Took a lot of work over the space of a couple of weekends but I've finally got everything in place yesterday.

    20200229_171215.jpg

    Now I just need to sort things out a bit and rearrange my workbench so it can actually be used! Currently it's filled with miscellaneous bits and pieces from the move.

    Makes so much of a difference to see my overflow in one place. Anytime I feel like doing a bit of tinkering I can easily look over my collection and see what needs doing, put it on the workbench and then once I'm done I can put it back on the shelf leaving my bench clear.
     
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  5. okclock123

    okclock123 Member

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    Thanks for the detailed post! Organisation and display is something I’m passion ate about. Never satisfied with what I have and life throws in surprises now and then so it’s a never ending process. Love to see these detailed descriptions of space/usability problems and solutions!
     
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  6. Pierre32

    Pierre32 Member

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    Very nice! :thumbup:
     
    Flamin Joe likes this.
  7. bYrd

    bYrd Member

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    Great work, Flamin Joe! We seem to share the same garage and I'm entertained by seeing the same tubs, air compressor but my lot is replaced by a rainbow Apples :) I like your idea of garage door insulation and replacing the CCFL tubes - hadn't thought about UV.

    My house isn't particularly big but the garage is a good size, so like you I'm always looking for ways to make it more habitable down there. My main issue of late has been flooding due to the back yard being higher than the garage, so a project fixing the exterior retaining and drainage has kept me busy. Like you dust and moisture is potentially an issue, I keep my spoils under the house (which is warm and completely dry so suitable), while my main collection is housed in steel cabinets in the garage. Kmart/Aldi sell moisture cannisters which I buy six at the time, replace biannually.

    Bunnings Pinnacle brand workbenches have been installed on the back garage wall (got them cheap, the ones with a thick dressed pine top), so I can at least get one or two machines running at once.
     
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  8. Flamin Joe

    Flamin Joe Member

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    I can't believe I didn't think about this sooner until I started looking into things in the garage. I had actually gone to the trouble of replacing globes around the house with LED's mainly for the reduction in power consumption (with reduced UV being a bonus) but it just never occured to me to do it in the garage as well. Thankfully the VGA CRT that got yellowed isn't anything special.

    Water isn't an issue for me but yes dirt definately is especially since there is a gap either side of the garage door which lets it in. The next thing to do which I failed to mention is take care of that. I tried some of this stuff off eBay since it was cheap so not much of a hit if it didn't work but it's crap. Despite having 3M adhesive tape one side easily came off so that's a no go so I will need to look at a better (more expensive) solution to do the job.
     
    okclock123 likes this.
  9. bYrd

    bYrd Member

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    One of the best things to prevent water seeping in at the front of the garage door was to silicone (and concrete screw) down a long thin crescent shape of aluminium just behind the door, on the slab.

    https://www.actionaluminium.com.au/...A-A4-2020-Catalogue_FULL_101019-EMAIL-PDF.pdf

    Crescent mould MCRES3175 was what I used. Never a drip inside since.
     
    okclock123 likes this.
  10. Pierre32

    Pierre32 Member

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    I was digging around the back rooms at work looking for keyboard boxes (cardboard ones to ship keyboards in) and unearthed these beige boys. Nothing fancy, but I had to rescue them. Apologies for the terrible lighting in all of these pics.

    IMG_20200304_105543.jpg

    IMG_20200304_180716.jpg

    A big cleaning session was required (I also did a couple of others that I'd been putting off).

    IMG_20200304_194145.jpg

    The pics don't do them justice, but they cleaned up beautifully. They're just rubber domes, but probably the nicest ones I have now. The mystery SK-2001 is in service on the retro desk, and the Diamond Touch (which is USB) is on the main rig.

    IMG_20200305_215923.jpg

    IMG_20200305_215910.jpg
     
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  11. /invariance\

    /invariance\ Member

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    The mystery board is made by Silitek Corporation (FCC id) which is a subsidiary of Lite-on. Application dated 1996.
    As for the model I get the same as you; nothing.
    Possibly a copy of the Focus FK-2001?
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2020
    okclock123 and Pierre32 like this.
  12. Grant

    Grant Member

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    So I ended up with the same board trying to put together a Socket 7 system. Still could find no info on the ACHI-5VX on the internet, so I started playing with the jumpers. All of the red jumpers were in the same configuration on my board compared to jmannik's, but the yellow ones were different. After some experimentation, I believe the yellow ones are the only ones that are supposed to be user-configurable.

    The 2x2 cluster in the middle of the board sets the FSB. The one closest to the CPU sets 66MHz, the other one sets 60MHz, and no jumper sets 50MHz.

    The two yellow jumpers at the end of the rows either side of the CPU set the multiplier. End of the 2x6 row closest to the BIOS chip sets 2, both off sets 2.5, and the one on the end of the 2x7 row on the RAM side sets 3. I tried with both on, but got one of the other mulitipliers. My CPU is an Intel 200 MMX though, so it might be that configuration is 3.5 but my CPU only allows up to 3.

    The board doesn't boot with SDR SDRAM with this jumper configuration, but I now have some EDO and it works with that - if it's not just my board, I assume some of the red jumpers around the RAM slots need to be moved/changed.

    Anyway, thanks to jmannik for the clear photos. My board didn't have a jumper on the RAM-side multiplier header, so I was going nuts changing all the red ones in the other cluster given initial success with the first one. The ACHI boards that do have doco on the Internet all talk about a 2x6 cluster (DIP switches or jumper headers), so I was trying to make sense of those.

    I have a Minipro EEPROM writer, but I won't try flashing the BIOS unless I have other issues. The BIOS socket is marked 28F020 on the board (which is a 256KiB chip), but the BIOS image linked in that discussion is only 128KiB.
     
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  13. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    I've decided that there's a gross shortage of awareness of the cool / cheap / interesting things AliExpress has in stock that can help retro computing enthusiasts. I'm going to start a "random AliExpress of the moment (RAEOTM)" post in this and the console equivalent threads, apropos to nothing at all.

    So, RAEOTM: DMS-59 cables:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=dms+59

    What are these?
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DMS-59

    A common connector on a number of Lenovo and Dell rebadged video cards. In my experience mostly ATI cards, but often other models too. I saw these everywhere in the early 2000s and have quite a few of these cards around today, but can never find the bloody cables. The cards are useful to me because they all work with CRTEmuDriver which will drive low resolution modes compatible with old CRTs.

    With these connectors you can even go DMS-59 -> DVI-to-HDMI -> HDMI-to-YPbPr converters, all for about $20-$30 in parts, and drive a component television directly with accurate emulation modelines from MAME or RetroArch.

    But even for regular Windows/DOS PC users, these ATI cards are cheap and plentiful (I often find them in huge numbers being thrown out), and IMHO ATI hardware always gave a clearer video picture than NVidia in the 2000-era days (NVidia had their notorious low pass filter resistors in that era, which needed a hardware mod to remove).

    DMS-59.jpg DMS-59-2.jpg
     
  14. JSmithDTV

    JSmithDTV Member

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    Had a great Sunday afternoon yesterday... played;

    Double Dragon
    Shinobi
    Ninja Gaiden (Shadow Warrior)
    The Simpsons

    :)

    Was a bit annoyed with DD though as it crashed right near the end stage! Something I recall happening on the old SNES version too...



    JSmith
     
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  15. nic55

    nic55 Member

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    HP also pretty much exclusively used these in their business desktop range up until 2016 or so, and the generation before that even had s-video. Definitely a good card to hang on to.
     
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  16. badmofo

    badmofo Member

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    Very little motivation to do anything retro lately for some reason but I managed to do some framing-of-stuff to perk up the man cave. Mostly just game maps but I did the 486 / SB16 combo I've been meaning to do for ages - both well and truly dead don't worry.

    I use super cheap frames so the results are dubious but its a better result than blutack.

    IMG_4954.JPG

    IMG_4955.JPG
     
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  17. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

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    ^ love the dust covers
    very nice
     
  18. Flamin Joe

    Flamin Joe Member

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    I was just thinking the same. :thumbup: Reminds me I need to get some for my setup in the garage.

    Anyone got any recommendations on the best place to buy?
     
  19. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

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    not purchasing as such, but i know this place ....


    :lol:
     
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  20. darkmenace

    darkmenace Member

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    Jan 4, 2004
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    There are 2 versions of DD on PC. One crashes/freezes early on the last level (L5). Then there must have been another released later that fixed that bug. Fairly sure I have the version that goes all the way through. PM if interested & ill find and email to you.

    I played UT GOTY (UT99) a fair bit lately & the original need for speed in dosbox today too. Fun stuff!
     
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