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What retro activity did you get up to today?

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade' started by adz, Jan 28, 2014.

  1. Mistikal

    Mistikal Member

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    Last edited: May 30, 2020
  2. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    Don't chop, just re-pin.
     
  3. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    So I put this together yesterday, any thoughts on what I could do to help fix them? Should I just replace the caps and see what happens? They have a 16v 10uf can cap, (overkill for a 4.5V system), and one of those orange flat round types.

     
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  4. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

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    does it use elastomer strips to connect the lcd and pcb ?

    its easy enough to fix those ....
     
  5. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    Dunno, there's a bunch of contacts around the lcd screen and wherever it actually connects is under it as in I can't see it.
     
  6. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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  7. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    Have you tried just giving it a good clean inside? These things are typically so simple inside, and often just corrosion, dust, grease, humidity and other factors cause them to fail, and a good scrub with high percentage isopropyl solves a big chunk of issues.

    A friend of mine bought the (super racist) Game and Watch title "Fire Attack" (apparently that was her childhood game/memory) off eBay. To avoid paying squillions she grabbed a "non-working" one, and I gave it a clean and it came up flawlessly.

    Post documenting it here:
    https://forums.overclockers.com.au/posts/17432868/
     
  8. DonutKing

    DonutKing Member

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    If you ever get to Moscow you can visit Bunker 42 which is an old Soviet bomb shelter. They've made it in to a museum which includes lots of cold war era computers and comms equipment including ICBM control panels. I wasn't able to get photos of some of it as it is still in use by the military. Definitely worth the trip if you're interested in this sort of thing.
     
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  9. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    I'm supposed to be there right now, but my big international holiday got cancelled because of COVID19, and I lost thousands in the process. :upset:
     
  10. Mistikal

    Mistikal Member

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    The header on the "standard" plug we know it is 5x2, the header on the motherboard is only 4x2 and has a shroud, will only be slicing the two empty pin holes off the header on the cable, the rest of it appears to be the same. USB headers are a dime a dozen :)
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
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  11. DonutKing

    DonutKing Member

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    oof, that sucks, sorry dude.
    If you do manage to get there, also check out the Soviet arcade museum. I made a thread about it a few years ago. I think there’s one in St Petersburg as well but I didn’t get time to see it. But who knows whats going to happen, might be a while before they let people back in.
     
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  12. gdjacobs

    gdjacobs Member

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    Last edited: May 30, 2020
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  13. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    First thing done. It was actually clean as inside. Still wiped all the board and rubber dome contacts anyway.
     
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  14. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    Here's some inside pictures of the hand held;
    IMG_0552.JPG IMG_0553.JPG IMG_0554.JPG IMG_0555.JPG
     
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  15. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

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    good pics cool.
    in the last pic the pink spongey stuff with the black centre stripe is the conductive elastomer.
    over time it collapse and also gets a film of mank that stops the full voltage getting to the lcd.

    you need to carefully lift the lcd and clean the pcb, the lcd, and both sides of the elastomer.

    be super gentle as it'll have "grown" and become fully stuck.

    use isocol and cotton buds to clean.

    its likely it still wont be perfect however as the elastomer just gets compressed over time.
    but we can cross that bridge if you have to.

    check all this "theory" out by gently pushing on the side while its running.
    you should see the lcd spring to life :)
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
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  16. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

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    just on a mobile right now. I'll get on the big rig later and zoom in on the pics. looks like you got two elastomers.

    the pink stuff is not conductive. the black stuff is and runs through the middle of the "sandwich" but is in thin sections.
    that way it doesn't matter where the elastomer lines up on the contacts. it'll always have a few stipes of the black stuff to touch
     
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  17. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    So the whole thing should pull up, those white sides and all?
     
  18. Mistikal

    Mistikal Member

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    Got the machine fired up, most of it works.

    Power connected, didn't fire up. Damn.
    Remembered it's ATX power, I have a few spare PSUs... Tried a spare, still nothing.
    Removed power switch header, shorted the pins, still nothing.
    Checked the original PSU had life by shorting the 3.3v line to ground, hit the master switch, PSU lives.
    Shorted the same wires from the wired side of the plug, connected it to the motherboard, hit the switch, it fires up... Kinda.
    Fans are on, the old jet engine Maxtor spins into life, screen is still in standby, no beeps. Damn it. Powered it down, had a think, powered it up and left it for about 20 seconds... 1 long beep, 3 short beeps! Holy cow it wants to live!
    Removed my jumper wire, reconnected the soft switch, powers on normally now.
    Dug around for the motherboard manual online, found nothing for trouble codes. Checked the generic codes for the Award BIOS, it lists that sequence as "AGP fail"... Odd, the S3 is PCI. Swapped to a spare GeForce FX5200 I had floating around, strike me pink it boots!

    After some more troubleshooting, I have worked out that the 128MB stick of SDRAM is dead (leaving me with 2x64MB) and the S3 Trio is dead, refuses to come to life. Found an S3 Virge in the stash which works. Moved the extra memory chips to the Virge, and it still works, winning.

    I am stuck at the BIOS at the moment as I don't have a keyboard on it, but hey, I am happy so far.

    Edit: forgot to add, sold the Diamond MX200 out of it already, friend wanted it to replace his dead MX200 - he bought the Roland daughter board off me for it around 10 years ago.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
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  19. Mistikal

    Mistikal Member

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    Speaking of the above now-removed audio card, I found these in my stash, but I am torn on which one to install. I am leaning towards the Aureal card.

    IMG_20200530_172948.jpg
     
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  20. MUTMAN

    MUTMAN Member

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    yes. the lcd is fragile though.
    the elastomers will be stuck onto the lcd and the pcb ....
    i did one a few years ago and i had to rock the lcd from side to side to try to break the seal

    edit. and thats how old they are if they look white. theyre actually pink when new :)
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
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