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What retro computer activity did you get up to today?

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade' started by adz, Jan 28, 2014.

  1. deevus

    deevus Member

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    I can now heartily recommend a Yahama YMF-724 for this purpose. I recently acquired one and installed it into my Pentium 4 that has no ISA slots. FM synth in DOS mode is now a thing and it's beautiful :)

    My motherboard does not have an SBLINK header, but the Yamaha drivers come with an executable called dsdma which gets around that limitation. Without tweaking it worked for most games I tried.
     
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  2. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    Finally got my DDR in the mail yesterday so tested the last two.

    IMG_20200331_092955 2.jpg

    Is a jetway mpga478 p4 motherboard, picture taken after I removed heatsink/cpu so I do have those. There are two bulged black caps near the top, may replace all three of them. Rest look fine. Board worked as it is.

    IMG_20200331_093103.jpg

    No post, nothing. Look close enough, well, not even that, look at the cap next to the agp slot. The majority are blown/bulged. Not sure if even worth saving or buy a nos one instead. Is an AMD 754.
     
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  3. baronbaldric

    baronbaldric Member

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    Tried 4 different versions of the BIOS on my p3v4x with no luck. Still no post. Original bios weirdly was something that was not available on ASUS website, probably the first version ever. It had almost the same content as the oldest bios on the site but had a cople dosen bytes different near the end of the file.

    IMG_5233.JPG IMG_5234.JPG IMG_5235.JPG IMG_5237.JPG
     
  4. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    I had a look around my backups but couldn't find any old files I used to have for this board. I used to keep all the bios versions, etc.

    What are the memory chips on the memory you're using? I can't recall if it was this board or not but I remember having problems with micron tech (MT) chips on a board at some stage.
     
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  5. baronbaldric

    baronbaldric Member

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    Tried quite a few chips: Nova, EliteMT, Hynix, Nanya, single and double-sided.
    IMG_5245[1].JPG

    Also tried 2 CPUs 400 and 500 P3s, will try a Celeron later, have a hard time pulling it from another board. Also want to try spending some time with a magnifying glass. Maybe an SMD was damaged or a trace is bust somewhere.
     
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  6. baronbaldric

    baronbaldric Member

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    Flamin Joe, adz, MUTMAN and 1 other person like this.
  7. Pierre32

    Pierre32 Member

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    There is something super satisfying about doing those little touches!
     
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  8. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    Another thought, were you testing within a case? If the video card is skewed it can no post.
     
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  9. baronbaldric

    baronbaldric Member

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    A local gifted me a P4 system in an awesome brushed metal Lianli case. Will show off the case and the contents later. The P4 board did not post and after inspection it turned out had a couple bulging caps. After reading a little it turned out the caps on this board are the worst of the worst: choyo, gsc, and g-luxon. I uncapped large caps and ordered panasonic replacements from rscomponents. There are a lot of smaller caps scattered all over the board and a bunch of sanyo caps near the cpu. I decided not to touch them to keep the costs low. This is my first recap job and my tools are not that fancy (crappy bunning solder iron). Fingers crossed this will work out fine. Waiting for the new caps to arrive now.

    IMG_5255.JPG IMG_5256.JPG IMG_5280.JPG IMG_5281.JPG gb8iex-caps-order.jpg
     
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  10. baronbaldric

    baronbaldric Member

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    Tested without a case but I put a box under the motherboard so that the cards could hang off the edge. Thanks for all the comments! I'll put this board aside for now, need to drive to the storage to get a lightup magnifying glass to check it thoroughly some time next week.
     
  11. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    Freaking nice board man. Try testing with just one memory stick at a time too.

    Those cap parameters are exactly the same as what I'll need to order soon too. I had the same types go bad too. My trouble with getting components off the board is having clean holes. I can never get solder wick to work. Ever. Going to try the sucker. Good thing you took pictures too, I'd never remember where what cap went where. :D
     
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  12. Flamin Joe

    Flamin Joe Member

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    Honestly do yourself a favour and get a desoldering gun. I splashed out on Hakko 808 about 5 years ago which cost a small fortune but it was worth every cent. I still maintain it was the best investment I made in my hobby as it's such a time saver and makes jobs so easy to complete.

    No need to spend up big these days either on the Hakko's as there are Chinese alternatives now which I've heard do just as good a job.
     
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  13. GrandmasBoi

    GrandmasBoi Member

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    100% agree with this, yesterday I removed the keyboard din on a 486 board fixing battery leak and it took about 10 minutes. Especially old solder on retro hardware can be so stubborn you need to keep fluxing and adding new solder to the mix. A hand pump would of probably taken 1 hour and a sore neck.

    I got a Chinese copy which was about 120 a year ago. So far its been excellent, seen a bit of action too and always performed. I removed a 486 cpu socket with it before.

    P.s solder wick is the wrong tool for this job

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    Bit of corrosion on those resistors there too. First picture it's all along the top too. Poor thing, hope you get it cleaned up and working. Freaking nicads. I replace them with nimh versions.

    So two options have surfaced. Both electric suckers, a ~$50 blue cylinder type or ~$160 gun type.
     
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  15. GrandmasBoi

    GrandmasBoi Member

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    Thanx, it looks 10x worse under magnification all the resistor legs upto the 3rd isa slot are infected, so far 1 trace under the din lost continuity so its a bit of work to do it properly. Only the start atm, promised myself to split it into about 1hr blocks over many days as once I get sucked into it hours fly past and quality goes down :(

    Before I got a proper desolder gun I got a cheap $10 electric sucker, probably what you refer to as the blue cylinder type. The one I got started to smell funny and get real hot, with no temp control I did not feel comfortable using it so got a proper temp controlled gun with station and compressor.

    The electric cylinder did seem to have good suction in its defense so it might work just as well but it did not feel right to me
     
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  16. Reaper

    Reaper Member

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    Yea I found ones with a manual plunger, then a step up was the full electric (with fan sucker) cylinder sucker then the full electric gun type. After that was the full station versions that were running about $260.

    I'll see how I go first with my separate plunger sucker then probably buy the $50 full electric cylinder one. :D
     
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  17. OP
    OP
    adz

    adz Member

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    This is the first time I've been able to dabble in my old gear in ages! I fired up a couple of my P4 boxes for some upgrades, OS refreshes, tweaking and benchmarking. I've got the next week off so fingers crossed I can keep going :leet:
     
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  18. deevus

    deevus Member

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    This is my setup until I get some more appropriate speakers
     

    Attached Files:

  19. OP
    OP
    adz

    adz Member

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    Love that Model M :leet:
     
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  20. /invariance\

    /invariance\ Member

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    Model MMMmmm :)

    Pulled out the Dell Latitude D505 and downgraded the OS back to XP as W7 filled the 1GB of ram and hammered the 20GB hard drive.
    Looks like too steep of a learning curve to sort out group policies to behave with XP :(
    Back to W7 and everything works again, just rreeaallyy ssllooww.
    If I cbf I will grab the Toshiba Portege and spend some time with it (XP on it too).
     
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