What thermal pads are best for replacing current RTX3080 ones?

Discussion in 'Video Cards & Monitors' started by Ap0c, Feb 20, 2021.

  1. Ap0c

    Ap0c Member

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    I’ve started mining on my Aorus RTX 3080 when I’m not gaming because why not huh. I’ve noticed that the memory runs mentally hot! 100-110 degrees and the gpu backplate is too hot to even touch. So I’ve read that people apply thermal pads to the back of the memory between the backplate and while they’re at it replace the shit quality pads on the face of the card.

    Now this is something I have zero experience with so I’ve been looking online and I can buy a thermal pad sheet in varying thickness for about $30 but then I see on pccasegear there is the Thermal Grizzly pad for twice the price but even less pad for your money. So I’m wondering will I see significant cooling performance from the brand name thermal grizzly or should I save my money and just get a general brand for less than half the price?

    Also while I’m here what thicknesses should I use? The grizzly is 2mm so I assume that’s optimal but I’ve also seen some people on forums say 3mm

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2021
  2. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    My Aorus Xtreme RTX 3080 had a terrible factory application of thermal pads plus the base of the heatsink has these raised pimples in the copper... lapping these down to flat over the GPU dropped a solid 5-6 degrees... I haven't thought about putting pads on the back of the memory. You will need 3mm to fill that gap from PCB backside to backplate.
     
  3. OP
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    Ap0c

    Ap0c Member

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    Thanks for that info, yeah apparently adding pads to the back of the memory helps a fair bit. I also saw a guy who added pads to the back of the memory and then also added little copper HeatSinks attached to the backplate directly over where the memory pads are to directly draw the hit up into the heatsinks and then had a fan blowing over them and it dropped the memory temp 16 degrees!

    So did you replace all the pads on the front of the card? If so what thickness did you need to use? I’ve read there are varying thicknesses needed there
     
  4. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    The backplate gets damn hot, even without pads on the back of the memory chips, so wouldn't surprise me that adding copper heatsinks on top of the backplate afterwards would help.

    As for the front thermal pads I didn't replace all of them, just the ones that were done poorly from factory. See my image. In hindsight I think 1.5mm for all the pads other than the memory (2.0mm) would work fine as well, as the components they are pressing against are small and would quite easily squash into a 1.5mm pad down anyway.

    To keep the same factory pads colour, I used "Kingbali" brand 7.0W/mK grey 1.0mm pad which I have used with great results before - very easy to cut, elastically compressible, flexible (ie. doesn't easily break apart), doesn't stick too much, etc... I've used these before to improve performance of evga cards previously where the stock pads had very low thermal transfer performance, and directly compared them to the popular blue Arctic 6.0W/mK and they perform equally well, possibly better, given 7.0 vs 6.0, but assume them to be the same.

    I think the Kingbali brand is also resold as "Nilskor" brand - it's the same product. IMG_20210221_215640.jpg

    Ignore the yellow numbers - those were of the issues I reported to Gigabyte. rtx3080thermalpadsnumbered_withthicknesses.jpg

    I got the single 2mm pad for the bottom memory chip a little dirty when lapping the copper bumps off the GPU base, so replaced it with some generic eBay 2mm pad I had, I think rated to 6.0W/mK. It was grey as well however very slightly different colour. Anyway end result as below:
    IMG_20210208_224122.jpg
     
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  5. OP
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    Ap0c

    Ap0c Member

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    WOW that has to be the most helpful post I could have ever hoped for you’re a legend.

    Did you replace all the factory thermal pads? Sorry I can’t tell.

    I’ve ordered some 3w/mk 3 and 1mm from eBay and the 8w/mk Thermal Grizzly 2mm. I hope this will be sufficient
     
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  6. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    No worries. I was able to reposition some of the stock ones, but essentially only replaced the 3 on the right in my pic, and the bottom memory chip one (you can see it's a slightly darker grey).

    I'll probably add some to the backside of the memory during the week, didn't think it would help much but haven't tested it to compare but from the sounds of things a 10-15°C improvement is definitely worth it.
     
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    Ap0c

    Ap0c Member

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    I read that the stock ones leak a lot of oil which to me doesn’t sound like a very good thermal material so I think I’m going to replace them all.

    I’m also going to get a small all copper base cpu cooler and sit it on top of the backplate to draw the heat out just while I’m mining on it haha
     
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  8. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    Sounds good - let us know how you get on - ideally with some temps before and after.

    Regarding the oil marks, I only saw slight staining on the surface of the memory chips when I removed it the Aorus cooler, nothing compared to EVGA cards with ACX coolers I've had before (for example 980ti). Then again being a new card that I had run for only a couple months, it probably hasn't had the time to excrete all its oils yet so it's hard to say.
     
  9. OP
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    Ap0c

    Ap0c Member

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    what did you use to lap the block because I may as well do that while I have it all pulled apart
     
  10. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    I used 200 grit, then 600 grit, then some 1200 grit, all with soapy water. The 1200 is probably overkill. Used an old random core 2 processor which I had lapped years ago as my "flat" surface... basically cut a strip of sandpiper abit wider then the old processor, place it against the IHS of the old processor, with say 1cm overhang on either end, fold this over the ends of the processor, grip the sides with my hands/fingers.

    I didn't spend that much time on it, just enough to get rid of all those copper pimples on the GPU section, then used the 600/1200grit to smoothen the surface out, not quite mirror finish, but smooth/flat.
     
  11. OP
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    Ap0c

    Ap0c Member

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    Ok cool, and this dropped temps a fair bit did it?
     
  12. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    Yep, even without touching fan curve, before and after was about 5-6°C cooler. Manual fan speed at 100% was about 7-8°C cooler... this is a huge difference in the whole scheme of things.

    This was also using same Noctua NT-H1 thermal compound before vs after. I didn't notice any drop when I originally took the cooler off and and used NT-H1, it was the lapping that made all the difference.
     
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  13. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    So with your advice about adding rear pads over the back side of the memory, decided to redo practically all the them, only left the standard memory ones and 1 row of the caps ones which were flawless from factory.

    The 2nd row from the right over the power stages, I redid in 1.5mm. I believe the stock pad might have been 1.25mm or 1.5mm here, as my 1mm re-pad last time only seemed to make very light contact (oops).

    Essentially anything shown in blue below is the 1.5mm Arctic thermal pad.

    Added pads to the back behind the memory chips (3mm from 2 layers of the 1.5mm Arctic). Also previously I had changed the square one over the back of gpu from 1.5mm to 2.0mm (as it was only barely touching the SP-Caps, and not touching the MLCC at all. With 2.0mm, it gets good contact with both as you can see in the imprint on it.

    Anyway, I am super pleased with the results, with the card now thermally outperforming out of the box by so much, now easily justifying it's 2kg weight and overkill 4 slot cooler design where before it was mediocre for its size.

    I wasn't expecting to further improve my GPU core temp but it may have done so too. I tried memory at +1300mhz and didn't get any drop in Time Spy, where previously this was the point I'd lose a few points on some consecutive runs. Not totally conclusive but definitely running cooler.

    Interestingly my 450w bench profile crashed a couple times in Port Royal, but it was because the card is boosting almost unusually high compared to before... Though not sure if that's cos of the new driver I installed last night too.

    It's at the point where at stock with power slider at 100% (370w), it's boosting and holding 2000mhz in Furmark (in a small window) which is notably high. Sliding power to 121% (450w) and it's holding 2040-2055mhz @ 1.075v, which again, is high for Furmark.

    Ha, thought I'd give it a run as nice and cool (19°C) this morning... but kids woke up. Still, first run without trying to optimize the PC (bg processes, etc.) netted my best result so far.

    NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-10700KF Processor,Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. Z490M GAMING X (3dmark.com)

    IMG_20210226_234233.jpg IMG_20210226_234240.jpg IMG_20210226_234246.jpg IMG_20210226_234252.jpg IMG_20210226_235832.jpg IMG_20210226_235850.jpg IMG_20210226_235902.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2021
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  14. Slug69

    Slug69 Member

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    Nice work team OCAU.
     
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  15. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    For abit of fun I tried ETH mining on the Aorux Xtreme 3080.

    Can't do before and after the rear memory pads, as already added them, but memory temps stay high, despite hot spot and GPU temps being very low.

    After some tuning, it holds steady with no rejected shares at 99.5MH/s @ 240w, which is a pretty good ratio for a 3080.

    Adding a fan blowing on the backplate doesn't seem to do anything for the memory temps. However, opening the side panel and adding airflow to the main cooler side of the card seems to help.

    The backplate, despite getting very hot to touch, is still under 60 degC. Can't see how adding heatsinks to the backplate and fans etc. will be helping the memory chips on the front side of the card much.
     
  16. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    After some tuning. No extra cooling, but side panel off, holding 104°C on memory temp. Feels abit high, starts throttling at over 110°C. No doubt on a 30°C ambient day it'd get there unless I did something about it.

    Clocking memory down towards stock helps with temps, but still holds high at around 98°C, while also dropping a good 10-12MH/s.

    3080EthPerf.png
     
  17. OP
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    Ap0c

    Ap0c Member

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    The trick is to put really high quality pads on the front of the memory. That’s where you gain the real performance
     
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  18. groovetek

    groovetek Member

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    I see. I wonder what the performance/thermal conductivity of the stock pads are on the front - in terms of the memory pads, I've only changed the bottom most pad for the single chip as I got the original pad abit dirty, but yes, I think next time I tear down this bad boy I'll upgrade the front memory pads too.
     
  19. Slug69

    Slug69 Member

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    You will see a substantial drop if using the Arctic pads on the front side.
     
  20. Soda

    Soda Member

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    Quote from Reddit:
    hey folks - I sent a service ticket to the NVIDIA team asking about thermals . I use my card almost 24/7 between work for rendering and gaming. the feedback I received from the NVIDIA team is that the memory junction module reaching temperatures between 100C and 110C is within the expected thermals for the video card and this would not harm the video card or impact the performance. I have a 3080 FE.
    https://imgur.com/a/YaWMJFP


    I have done a bit of tuning:
    Power Limit to 65, Under clocked by -200, Overclocked Memory to +1270
    Can achieve 99Mh/s, 52degree core temp, Max 100degree memory junction, 240 power draw, Efficiency around 430, GPU fan @50%

    Nicehash Hashimoto Eth mining
    MSI 3080 Suprim X
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2021
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