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Where does one go to get a custom copper block designed or and made for a specific laptop?

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by Newbie12, Nov 19, 2020.

  1. Newbie12

    Newbie12 Member

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    I have no idea where and my fans are driving me nuts(according to a decibel reader on my phone its around 40 to 50 and I site 20 cm away from it...) and I'm not even playing games on it, just web browsing with 200+ tabs open....Happened since I decided to upgrade to windows 10 - it was much quieter on windows 7.....could be that its sitting at 260+ processes compared to about 100 on windows 7?

    I'm on it almost 15 hrs a day....and yeah....I think its about time I go water on this for that quieter experience.... I should be able to use some preexisting fittings and tubings assuming the block thread holes have been tapped correctly... Might have to get a 480 rad thick (not the thin ass ones) or something.....to cool down the 4710HQ and 980M chips...will also need to get some nice quiet fans too to cool the rad down with...maybe those uni fans sl120, heard they're pretty quiet with decent amount of static pressure....
     
  2. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    Have you re-done your paste mate? That'd be the first thing I did. I recently did a laptop for a young fella, blew the heatsinks out and cleaned the fan blades, then re-pasted CPU and GPU. Good for 20C, was pretty happy. Little MSI thing, tiny little heatsinks.

    4710HQ and 980M - Asus G751 by any chance?
     
  3. OP
    OP
    Newbie12

    Newbie12 Member

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    Nah not yet, didn't think a repaste would be needed? Plus working on a laptop is a bit more delicate than working on full size desktop or tower machine....

    Nah, I got the *stealth* Gigabyte variant that comes with 8GB of VRAM. I think it was P35xV3, helps when you dont want to attract attention in the public or workplace....

    When you have a normal looking laptop "Oh that guy must be busy doing some work, respectable guy."
    When you have a bulky gaming laptop "Gee, that rich mother, can afford a $3000 gaming laptop but all I can afford is $300 box...."
     
  4. ir0nhide

    ir0nhide Member

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    repasting is needed if the laptop is old enough; paste dries out after 2(?) years or so. Sounds like you have a pretty old unit since you mention upgrading to win10? Keep in mind that modern websites use up more CPU and having 200+ tabs open (I don't even want to know why) could cause any cpu to run relatively hot.
     
  5. fnp

    fnp Member

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    Cleaning out dust at this time of year is a good idea too. Might have had sufficient cooling during winter but as the weather gets warmer you have less headroom before the fans start to do their thing.
     
    shane41 likes this.
  6. mad_mic3

    mad_mic3 Member

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    As the above good advice try repaste 1st, but if you still want to water block there was a member in this sub forum section a while ago that was venturing into making custom water blocks, also in the modding sub forum section a member added water cooling to his laptop
     
  7. OP
    OP
    Newbie12

    Newbie12 Member

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    Yeah I cleaned it all out, repasted the paste, blew out all the dust that was stuck in the fins and wow temperatures drop by 20 degrees C! So instead of a constant 95°C, it's now 75°C and much more quieter on quiet mode! Still a fair bit high though. Got it down to 65°C-ish when the fan preset is set on "Gaming" mode through Gigabyte's smart manager.
    If it can bring the temps down even further than 65°C, sure why not? Who is this member and how much does a custom waterblock with the usual 1/4" threads for inlet and outlet ports cost?
     
  8. randomman

    randomman Member

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    Wouldn't that cost more than a new more efficient laptop?
     
  9. OP
    OP
    Newbie12

    Newbie12 Member

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    What the custom block? Well I don't know, that's why I'm asking.... And what's more efficient than what I have in thin profile format, the same as I have?
     
  10. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Not sure if this is a good idea.

    If you can squeeze a block in you will pretty much be chained to the WC loop making it non portable. If you have quick connects then performance will be horrible when disconnected as I doubt you would have space for both the heat since and a WC block.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2021
  11. Cape_Horn

    Cape_Horn Member

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    Left field response.
    So I was reading that a couple of companies had worked out copper 3d printing...
    So - design a block and get it printed?
     
  12. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    bennyg is the man about this, I remember his thread well :thumbup:
     
  13. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    Most likely be very expensive and depending on how its made might not be water tight.

    Some metal 3D printing is a metal powder with a binding plastic which then gets burned away which makes them somewhat porous, laser sintered can be a bit better but still not as clean as machined.
     
  14. OCMunkee

    OCMunkee Member

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    FYI Newbie12 - I also just repasted my low power Yoga720 chip (a lowly i5 7200U @ 15W) and it, too, went from 95C and fans blasting (at idle!) to 43C at idle and ~80C at full load.

    Other things you may find handy are:
    - ThrottleStop (9.4.2 Beta) Download | TechPowerUp - modify your Intel CPU speedstep/boost/voltages (I undervolted my 7200U with offset and got higher and more consistent boost for lower temps/power)
    - Afterburner (msi.com) - similar but for nVidia GPU
     
  15. Gibbon

    Gibbon grumpy old man

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    Yeah, I recently blew out the heatsinks and replaced the fans in my Dell XPS 9570. One was getting a bit rattley - got some apparently genuine new ones on eBay ... anyway, they looked OK quality. Didn't even repaste it, and it made a huge difference.

    Fair few dustbunnies in the heatsink fins that were never going to resolve themselves.
     
  16. OP
    OP
    Newbie12

    Newbie12 Member

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    I did get a copper plate which I was gonna use as a heatsink that would touch water, something like this unprofessional mspaint diagram:
    DIY copper plate cooling.png

    ...but I had no idea how I was gonna attach the copper plate onto the heat pipes, cut open perfect holes into the plastic cover so it would get through and all of that so the idea never went ahead.... I still got the container made and copper plate on hand whenever I stop procrastinating....

    The other method I was thinking about would be to get someone else to design and machine out the water flow chambers and rubber seals, tap the 1/4" holes for the compression fittings and then all I would have to do is pay for the parts and the service and then put it together, cut a hole on the back of the laptop's cover and fit the water block in if it doesn't fit using the same holes and height of the old heat pipes and heatsink fan.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2021
  17. OP
    OP
    Newbie12

    Newbie12 Member

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    Thanks, will check him out.
     
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  18. Butcher9_9

    Butcher9_9 Member

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    The laptop he used must have a tonne of free space in it, I cant see how you would be able to get anywhere near what he added in most. That or he just never put the bottom back on and just have those pipes exposed.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2021
  19. pduthie_au

    pduthie_au Member

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    The other thing to check - if it's got dual graphics adapters, set chrome to use the real GPU rather than the CPU one. I've got a i7 with a GTX 1650 and it screams at times. Normally because Chrome is using the CPU graphics instead of the GPU.
     
  20. bennyg

    bennyg Member

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    I did manage to stuff everything back in. It was possible because the laptop had a ton of empty space in it. It was an SLI model from 2012 with space for a DVD drive bay and two 2.5" stacked in top of each other, this along with its (by modern standards) obscene thickness gave most of the extra space - I was able to fit a pump diameter 25mm inside, between the palmrest and base.

    OP look around on YouTube you'll find heaps of examples of things people have tried. The Dell xps m1330 video I have at the top of my thread was the best mod I could find. After I started researching, Asus released their water-cooled GX700 and later GX800 laptops. My focus was retaining portability... because if it's not going to be moved it may as well be replaced with a desktop.
    There's another called "laptop liquid loop" done by a guy who looked at machining his own block, he dumped the idea due to cost
    I made my own stuff from nothing more than existing heatsinks and heat pipes and 1/4inch copper tube, it was tricky but through trial and error I got pretty good at it IMHO.

    The issue is that a good WC setup is so effective you will end up annoyed at the limits your hardware will reach. H CPUs are limited to 45w unless you have a way to lock a higher PL1 (I call it perma-turbo). 980Ms generally don't have the vrms to go beyond 100W even though they're the same silicon as the desktop 970 and 980 GPUs. You may be better off just soldering an extra heatpipe or two, or adding a 2nd fan and radiator somewhere. A tiny thin tube that pulls 50W of heat out of the heatsinks will cool your hardware more than well enough and that will only need a 120mm rad and a tiny pump (like an Alphacool DC-LT unless you go with long tubing)

    At least on this insane P870DM3 I've got a 9900K to cool that the board can feed up to 170W to, and two >200W gtx1080s. That kind of heat absolutely needs water-cooling.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2021

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