[WORKLOG] Wife's SSUPD build

Discussion in 'Extreme and Water Cooling' started by woja, Oct 3, 2021.

  1. woja

    woja Member

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    Started the build on my dearest wife's computer.
    She used to have a 2013 imac that I dual booted windows off an external thunderbolt drive until I ended up selling after I upgraded my FT02.

    She has been reluctantly using my MSI GS63VR 7RF but due to shitty thermals even after a repaste and a few fan swaps it's loud and obnoxious even after underclocking both the CPU and GPU.

    I've been meaning to build her a computer but with Covid taking a hit to to our finances I've been putting it off until now.

    I've ordered everything and have everything bar the case, psu, tubing, compression fittings, rad and reservoir/pump mount (everything to start actually building it haha) but it should arrive in the next week or two.

    Components
    Case: SSUPD Meshlicious - White Mesh panels
    CPU: Intel i5 10600k (my CPU SP72) runs cooler than the 11700k that I got instead for mine)
    Mobo: Asus Rog Strix Z490-I Gaming
    Ram: 32Gb T.Force Delta R 3600 Cl18
    GPU: Asus RTX 3070 Dual V2 LHR (missed out on a EKWB pre-blocked 3070 from PLE by one day)
    SSD: Samsung 2Tb 970 Evo Plus nvme

    Cooling
    CPU: EKWB Velocity Acetal Nickel DRGB
    GPU: Bykski GPU block for Asus 3070 dual /w backplate
    Rad: Corsair XR5 280mm radiator
    Res/pump mount: Iceman Ssupd external
    Pump: Alphacool Liang DDC 3.2 PWM
    Tubing: EKWB ZMT 16/10
    Compression fittings: EKWB Torque - black
    Ekwb drain port
    QDC: Alphacool Es quick disconnects. Love these, got 4 sets with male and female g1/4 fittings
    Misc Barrow fittings - 90 rotaries, extensions,

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    A bit more fiddly dismantling the Asus card vs the Zotac 3080 as you have to take the shroud off the heatsink first before taking off the the heatsink from the card
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    Decent paste and pad job vs the Zotac
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    Nice solid and heavy like the Ekwb. I pasted with Kryonaut Extreme, but much harder to spread than the Noctua NT-H1. I used the provided thermal pads from Bykski but might swap them for the Thermalright Odyssey if the memory temps suck (but it's a LHR card)
    _A7R6820~2.JPG
     
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  2. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    I put in the CPU pasted and mounted the waterblock and installed the nvme last night. So much more fiddly as the clearance between the socket and block are smaller and they the vrm heatsink + fan seemed taller. Good thing I have skinny fingers. Plugged it into the psu on my FT02 (the great thing about having a modular psu with spare cables haha) and booted it up with the ram just to check.
    I missed the delivery from PCCG on Thursday which had th case, psu tubing and fittings otherwise I would be well on the way. But at least the fiddly gpu is sorted.
    I'll be doing the stand off mod for the motherboard side to get the cable management a bit nicer. There's lots of options for tubing runs and even a reddit guy having the iceman pump internally between the rad and psu but that might be a bit too much.

    In the long term if I ever downgrade the ft02 to an itx build for myself I can always use the triple 180 rad as an external and just pop off the pump res off the quick disconnects and plug into the external rad/pump res.
     
  3. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    Ooo yeah.

    20211005_090646.jpg

    Radiator still to come but I can get most of the other stuff installed to work out the tubing runs.
     
  4. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    So I might as well get started today
    20211005_135319.jpg
    Such a small case in comparison to the FT02. Dog for comparison
    Doing the stand off mod where you use a 20mm standoff to lift up the motherboard from the tray to get some more space for hiding cables. The stand-offs I got had 6mm thread that was slightly too long for the existing stand-offs so I broke out the hacksaw and trimmed them so they don't bottom out early

    20211005_140518.jpg

    Back cover shuffled over to suit

    20211005_142112 (2).jpg

    Motherboard and psu installed
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    Space behind the motherboard to stuff cables and the like.

    20211005_142759.jpg
    GPU riser moved to the top position as is required with the Iceman reservoir position when it gets here

    20211005_144858.jpg

    The Corsair Sf750 comes with nice cables but I hate the daisy chain

    20211005_151503.jpg

    So I depinned and snip the excess
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    I might end up getting 8 pin plugs instead of the 6+2 and some cable combs in I can be bothered. It's got mesh and not a tempered glass panel so no one will see haha

    I put in a 500gb samsung evo 850 down the bottom of the case not that I need extra storage but I can always take it out if not needed and it's pretty hidden under the psu
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2021
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    woja

    woja Member

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    My "Helper"
    20211005_171823.jpg

    Where the quick disconnects should attach to the Iceman Res/Pump
    20211005_174515.jpg

    RGB overload on the Bykski block
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    Quick boot test to see that everything is working fine
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    All for now until the radiator comes next week. I can at least use my spare res/pump to power it until the Iceman cometh
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    Rotated photos
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2021
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  6. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    Quick mock up of how the rest of the loop goes.
    Only iffy bit is between the CPU and the radiator. I'd prefer having the quick disconnect on the radiator to a 90 then up to the CPU, problem is there isn't much in terms of clearance to the psu to pull out the quick disconnect, might have to hang it off the CPU waterblock instead but won't look as clean.

    By the way ek ZMT is super nice to use, nice and flexible, more so than the alphacool tpv. With the torque fittings it's pretty easy to go on and lock down even without soapy water or anything. If I have enough tubing left I might swap the tpv from the ft02 as the inner diameter on the tpv is 7.6mm vs 10mm for the zmt.


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    Last edited: Oct 5, 2021
  7. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    As it always happens what you plan ends up changing.

    20211006_143419.jpg

    I mocked up a backplate estimating the iceman reservoir and the position of the inlet/outlets for now. I ws hoping to screw in quick disconnects to the res/pump housing itself. Issue here is that they cover the displayport/hdmi ports and the quick disconnects being rigid means you can't really wiggle them out of the way.
    20211006_143826.jpg

    So I moved the quick disconnects to the other ends of the tube (gpu inlet and rad) and just have compression fittings onto the Iceman. Not as neat as I would like but still will do the job. I'll probably end up making a metal back pane with holes for tubing if I get around to doing the external radiator idea
    20211006_143617.jpg

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    Put in a 3 way tee for the temperature sensor (which is ungodly long so I needed a m-f extension) I decided the quick disconnect on the CPU block didn't look too bad so I'll do that than struggle for clearance disconnecting it if it was on the rad
    Again I'll probably have to fine tune it once I actually get the radiator as I'm just guessing right now where the ports actually sit haha

    20211006_143405.jpg
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    I also ordered some open cable combs to tidy everything up, it's not too bad otherwise. The radiator can't come soon enough haha

    20211006_142321.jpg

    Did a quick pressure test of all the bits installed and it seems good atm
     
  8. The Beast

    The Beast Member

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    You're doing an awesome job but I must say SFF builds always give me the willies, I need room to move!

    Phobia aside, this photo I like, looks like a nice warm water-cooled GPU hug.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    Haha hopefully not too warm lol. To be fair its actually pretty easy to build in for a SFF, I think it's because it's well thought out and eveything can be removed and adjusted.

    The great thing about reddit and the SSUPD sub section is that every man and his dog have tried everything in this case. After seeing other people have issues with the clearance of the displayport and the iceman res tubing, I saw that the gpu riser standoff works well in giving moving the ports a bit more out of the way rather than directly on top of.
    Rather than waiting 2 weeks and paying $16 shipping for a 2 dollar item I found a local fpv drone store that had some 28mm M3 standoffs. Since I needed 27mm I etched a 1mm line to mark and filed then sanded it down.
    20211007_151028.jpg
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    The case came with plenty of M3 screws which was helpful. Replaced the existing 6.5mm standoff and voila, perfect fit. Definitely looks nicer than plain brass ones not that you see it haha.

    20211007_153133.jpg 20211007_153419.jpg
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    There's a little more tension on the riser cable but nothing too catastrophic.

    This places the gpu one slot width closer to the side panel which means the fittings had to move to the back of the card which cleans it up. I'll probably trim a couple of mm off the gpu to cpu tube due to the reduced length required.
    20211007_172245~2.jpg

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    Now I can get to the display ports without having to fist the Meshlicious. The other tube can sit against the side of the case as needed.

    20211007_171523~2.jpg 20211007_171613~2.jpg
    20211007_173011.jpg
    Bonus for the riser standoff means I get even more space between the mb and gpu which means I tidied up the cabling even more, I grabbed some cable combs from mwave but they're pretty shit so I'll swap them to something nicer in time.
    Did another boot test to check everything works and everything is detected. I really can't wait for the radiator and res to arrive. I also ordered some spoiler feet from etsy so I can use straight DP cables and some better airflow down the bottom.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2021
  10. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    So I was sick of not being able to do anything while missing the radiator and res, I contemplated installing the NH-D15 temporarily.
    20211009_155432~2.jpg

    But I remembered how much I liked my fingers and how much they dislike the EKWB velocity thumbscrews on an ITX board so I thought I'd be smart and hook up the system to my FT02 since they're using the same quick disconnects.
    I popped on some spare tubing with some fittings and quick disconnects and plugged them in the appropriate order and turned both computers on.

    20211009_171829.jpg

    Well it aint a stupid idea if it works right? I was fun watching all the bubbles go through the water block and the res emptying halfway.

    20211009_154627.jpg
    Might as well configure and install windows while I got it running and not overheating haha.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2021
  11. The Beast

    The Beast Member

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    Slightly off topic, but you mentioned you love your quick disconnects. Do the QDs reduce flexibility for system layout? I’ve thought about building some into a system that could either be closed loop or run with a massive external rad that I could throw outside (literally) when it’s 10C or lower.
     
  12. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    I'd say yes to a minor degree
    As they don't bend like tubing they do need a little bit of space, for the FT02 build, the longer runs between the GPU and the radiator and the pump and the rad there's no issue putting in a quick disconnect.
    Where as between the GPU and CPU and the pump, the run is too close together so I can't put in a quick disconnect between them. Well between the CPU and GPU I could by having the quick disconnect into the CPU, a 90 then a straight line to the GPU but it doesn't look particularly fantastic.

    Where as with the Meshi, ironically even though it's a smaller case the CPU and GPU are on opposite sides of the case so there's space for for qdc in between GPU CPU pump and rads. It definitely makes dismantling easier where it's needed as I wouldn't be able to dismantle the loop without draining the whole thing, where as with the FT02 it's all in one area so I can disconnect and take off everything without too much issue anyway.

    It wouldn't be too hard to do that. For the Meshi I'm planning for it to be easy to disconnect the res/pump from the radiator and GPU, then plug into an external rad/res/pump without too much fiddling. The other option was to have the pump internal and plug in the external part and run it in tandem but that's a bit more complicated as you need to close that portion of the loop when you aren't using it, some people have an H configuration where you have a 2 quick disconnects sitting outside the case but have a bypass line in between with a ball valve that you open when you just want it to run internally or closed when you want the external loop going.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2021
  13. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    So the radiator came early on Monday.
    I guess usually when you build watercooled machines you put in the radiator first before the other components.
    There is so much less room with the radiator and fans in. What I didn't realise was that the arctic P14 fans were actually 27mm thick rather than the standard 25mm which lead to a couple of issues.

    First was that the 30mm screws were too short to attach the fans to the Corsair XR5 rad due to the added thickness as well as the recess screw holes. The option was either
    1. Countersink the screw holes on the fan to apparent width of 25mm
    2. Buy and wait for some 32mm m4 screws
    3. Use the 35mm screws with washers or cut down the 35 to 32mm
    I was heading towards option 3 but when I did a dry fit I ran into problem 2, the GPU terminal block was hitting against the fan, compressing it enough to make the blades scrape against the radiator.

    I ended up countersinking the fan screw holes, given the fans weren't too expensive I didn't feel too bad about it . I still had issues with the clearance of the terminal block so I carefully measured off 2mm off the terminal block and took to it with a hacksaw, cleaned it up with a file and sandpaper. I tried to countersink the middle terminal screw hole but the perspex didn't drill very nicely and chipped a little but everything still works well. I guess I can always replace the terminal block with a barrow rotary one in the future if needs be.

    Everything is super tight but fits well, had to go 45 rotary to straight to 45 rotary to push the tubing the side of the case so it doesn't cover the displayports

    Ended up hooking it up to my spare alphacool eisfach bay res/pump and its got some Mayhem Blitz part 2 running through with a inline filter to catch any bits. I usually find black paint particles from fittings or the rad caught in it so I might I have one in temporarily at least.
    I'll rinse with distilled and go for the Mayhem XT1 after it's been going for 24 hours


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    Clearance or there lack of between fans and gpu after modifying fan and gpu terminal block

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    New cable comes which are easier to use and less spready than the previous ones

    _A7R6829~2.JPG
    Clearance of atx and header cables to fan.
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    I ended up rewiring the terminal sata cable to molex 4 pin so I could do away with one cable


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    Pressure testing the res/pump

    Pretty happy with the temps although I haven't overclocked it. Cpu package is around 56 degrees after a 30 min prime 95, water temp maxed at 36 degrees. Heaven gets the gpu around 39.5 with hotspot at 52 Max. This with the fans super quiet 400rpm or so. The ft02 is louder at the end of the desk. So as long as it's quiet and reliable my wife doesn't care.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2021
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  14. juzz86

    juzz86 Member

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    That is awesome. You've used every spare millimetre mate - I love it. Gotta be happy with those temps too!
     
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  15. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    Haha now it's making me wonder why the ft02 is so bloody loud with a much bigger radiator, sure it's pumping more watts I guess.

    Well I ended up blitzing for 12 + hours. I'm glad I ran the inline filter from the amount of stuff that was floating through
    20211014_092732.jpg

    Did 2 x 30 min flushes with distilled then chucked in the Mayhems Nuke XT1 clear.

    Shy of the Iceman it's pretty much finished for now unless I decide to go for the external rad option. I did buy some Neutrik 5 pin XLR case mounts and a cable to match along with an Aquacomputer Quadro. I might end up doing it for the FT02 to quieten it down since that's the one with the higher power draw components.

    https://www.dev-eth0.de/2021/05/19/diy-power-and-usb-supply-for-external-radiator/
    I was planning of following this as a guide and I'll make a couple of the molex + usb to XLR cables so I can attach it to either of the two as needed,
     
  16. The Beast

    The Beast Member

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    I rinse new rads with vinegar / hot water mix, filling shaking and emptying until nothing comes out. Always more crap in there than you imagine.
     
  17. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    Yeah I usually do too, I think I got impatient haha. I figured the inline filter will get most of it.
     
  18. OP
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    woja

    woja Member

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    Mostly finished, Iceman res came in, had to order a few more 90 rotaries (can't have enough of them) as well as an offset.
    Only thing in waiting for now is just some feet from Etsy to lift the case off the desk so I can use normal Displayport cables instead of the hdmi cable.

    Everything is a tight fit and definitely difficult to take apart even with the quick disconnects as there's not much clearance but I'm able to take off the most things without having to drain the whole loop.
    The ddc pwm doesn't change from Max rpm of 4500 between 50 and 100,so I got it at 20% which is around 1900 ish which is quiet enough.

    Pretty happy overall
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