Worklog: Massively (Update #65, 29th Nov – Final Pics + Aussie copper pipe fittings!)

Discussion in 'Modding Worklogs' started by Saate, Mar 29, 2012.

  1. Creekin

    Creekin (Taking a Break)

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    cool thanks for sharing.. :)
    true the magnet will hold it in place..i just think it will also be working against gravity more than in any other orientation so may be more likely to "chatter" on the bearing and chip it.
    but yea worth a try :D gl :thumbup:

    ive seen at least 2 loops with dead pumps before and none of the pc hw suffered..it just shut itself down...as ive said to our mate mr legume :Pirate:
    a few times iirc..your pc is NOT a commercial airliner..so killing a pump aint the end of the world really
     
  2. c_hegge

    c_hegge Member

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  3. Creekin

    Creekin (Taking a Break)

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    ah crap! :wired:
    ok he could run dual pumps for redundancy..but just him! :lol:
     
  4. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    Hello Saate,
    When I first saw your question on this issue a few weeks ago, my first impression was you could mount it any direction, should not be to much of a deal - theoretically it will effect the life of the pump, but by how much, no one can say.

    Well, if you have a look at the newly released Swiftech ApogeeDrive 2, this is exactly what they're doing, and assuming a fair few of their pumps will sit on motherboards mounted in the normal horisontal desktop configuration, you have the scenario you are after.

    I am sure they have conversed with Laing on this matter, and you may want to flick Stephen at Swiftech a note and as about this issue wrt their design? Might get lucky there, but, again, I would say you shuld be ok.

    @ Creekin: Jy's ongelooflik dig, doos.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2012
  5. BlueRaven

    BlueRaven Member

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    I'd say go straight to Gabe, but he might not be too interested since OP bought a Koolance-branded pump, not a Swifty. :Paranoid:

    The biggest problems I foresee will be in priming and bleeding the loop... can't see how that's going happen without running the pump at least partially dry for some of the time. Ok, not as bad as just plugging the thing in and running it totally dry in open air, but still not great....

    Saate, forget the idea of a swivelling mount... unless you can somehow fit in many inches of extra inlet/outlet tube to accomodate the change in position, which I doubt. I've only ever used 1/2" OD tube, but even if you use 7/16" OD, I reckon it's still not going to be easy to manage. This stuff just does not handle bending or being jammed into small spaces without kinking.

    If you really want to proceed with the the arse-about pump idea, make sure you have a large easy-fill res that you can load up with a decent amount of coolant, and a ready hand on the PSU main switch. Cycle and repeat until the loop is fully filled and then deal with the air pockets by putting the whole case through exciting gyrations.

    Oh, the fun you have ahead of you.... :D
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2012
  6. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Thanks mate, will still pursue more information but am pretty comfortable to proceed at this stage!

    Haha, nice :p


    Thanks for throwing that in mate! Big help, will be doing some reading up :)

    Thanks for the advice, I think you're spot on with the lack of space and flexibility so you might be right about skipping that idea. I'll think more about it anyway in coming days and weeks and see where I get to.

    UPDATE - Hotswap Bay

    Some of you may remember this shot from my earlier post on the midplate design, for this build I'll be relocating the 3.5" Hotswap bay drive to the lower compartment of the case. In planning I took some measurements on the available space left:

    [​IMG]

    The drive doesn't fit in the lower compartment with the faceplate on, but will need some kind of reinforcing structure there if the faceplate is removed. You can get an idea of the extra width it adds here:

    [​IMG]

    I thought the screws were a little on the dull side, so out they came:

    [​IMG]

    Replaced with MDPC screws, much better :)

    [​IMG]

    That's enough for today, more tomorrow on cuts to make it fit :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  7. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Thinking a pair of GTX670's is probably within my price range but need advice on what cards will have best waterblock/backplate availability? I kinda need the cards to work on the copper loop, using my old 8800 ultra at the moment just to get an idea of sizing but its a bit fail.

    Any advice on the cards/blocks?
     
  8. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    Hello Saate,
    Nice work, like what you're doing :)

    Wrt the cards/blocks, I can only say what I have and what works for me - Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce edition, and uses the standard GTX 680 PCB design, so I got and fitted a Watercool Heatkiller GTX 680 WB from TKR...

    One option for you, the other is getting the short reference GTX 670, and there may be a few waterblocks, maybe EK (ok, pretty fugly, but...) available locally?

    Keep it up, will come back for more :)
     
  9. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Thanks for the suggestion mate :) Is this the 680 WB you meant? Saw they had that one and a copper one, but I find the nickel version quite fetching :) The matching backplates are not too bad either, I guess I need to figure out which 670s I should get now then make sure they match the 680 blocks eh?

    UPDATE - Hotswap Bay Cuts

    I spent over an hour tonight updating links on the first post with updates from the last month and a half. You know how sometimes you start doing something detailed and later regret how much time it takes? Yeah, well really wishing I hadnt started including the thumbnail strips there - major pain the ass :p

    In the process of doing that I realised that I'd already posted pics of the SATA3 backplate on the hotswap bay, very embarrassed that I posted an update last night that I'd essentially already talked about. I've got 651 pics of the build so far, thats post-processed pictures cut down from what I can only guess is a total of 1500 or more. Unwieldy to say the least, but I'm happy with the level of detail I keep so I must endure for the...art? :)

    At any rate, here's a few more (previously unposted too!) shots of the hotswap bay action.

    I needed to remove some of the width of the front frame of the hotswap bay. I attached the frame to the bay and scored a line down the part of the frame overlapping the bay itself:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A quick job with the dremel:

    [​IMG]

    Now for the other side:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Both sides off - you can see that as a result of the cutting an extra folded piece came off which the screws through the hotswap bay connected to.

    [​IMG]

    I drilled holes through the frame where the screws had originally connected.

    [​IMG]

    Tapped the holes:

    [​IMG]

    and secured with MDPC rivets, final shots for the day of the hotswap bay in its new location:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Let me know if you have any questions, will probably get to the next update over the weekend. I need to make a decision on the video cards and order them so I can start playing with the loop layout.
     
  10. dorsy99

    dorsy99 Member

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    Subbed. Super-keen to see the end-product.

    I envy your ability to sit down, plan, think, research, and not just set crap on fire or rivet things willy-nilly.
     
  11. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    Riveting, then setting fire to willies is how the true modding pros do it... :weirdo:
     
  12. Creekin

    Creekin (Taking a Break)

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    #Protip :thumbup:
     
  13. BlueRaven

    BlueRaven Member

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    Pretty neat job mate, but could use more

    [​IMG]

    ;)

    I cheat and black out the cut edges with a permanent marker, but attentive modders prefer black hobby paint. Or getting the whole lot stripped and powdercoated/sprayed. Which I'll need to do if I ever want to finish my Raven project properly. :(
     
  14. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Thanks mate, really motivates me to receive feedback like that! Every time I'm feeling a little disconnected from the worklog it's kind words like yours that spur me on :)

    *takes notes*

    Hah, come on mate - do you think I could leave rough unpainted edges in the final build even if I WANTED to? :p All the metal cuts will receive a cleanup and new coat of paint before the build is completed - never fear! :)
     
  15. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Finally heard back from Laing guys in Germany:

    So nothing surprising or new from that, on with the build!
     
  16. mrbean_phillip

    mrbean_phillip Member

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    Yep, what I expected anyway, and as long as you have a good feed into the pump, with it located lower than the res, you should be fine.

    Come think of it, look at the Koolance RP401X2 is another one running the pump(s) in exactly that same orientation - upside down.

    Have fun, enjoy your upside-down pump, and good liuck going forward with this.
     
  17. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Advice needed! Looking at these cards:

    EVGA GeForce GTX 670 Superclocked+ 4GB - $599 x 2

    ..and these blocks:

    WATERCOOL HEATKILLER GPU-X3 GTX 680 HOLE EDITION NICKEL

    WATERCOOL HEATKILLER GPU BACKPLATE GTX 680

    From what I've read the 670 cards are the same PCB/reference as the 680 cards, but how can I be sure the card choice and blocks are going to be compatible? Also any thoughts on the other EVGA 670 versions? The 4GB are only $70 more so figured worth it anyway, but feedback would be appreciated :)

    Lot of photos uploaded this weekend, I've actually been doing copper pipe work with the 12.7mm stuff as practice and to figure out how the loop will work best. Looks amazing, and figured a few helpful things in the process - the wait is nearly over folks!! I'll write up another update tomorrow :D

    Also really looking for replacement Corsair Dominator RAM fins in red colour, any ideas? It's a bit annoying that the ones via the Corsair website are something like $40 for postage >_<
     
  18. WishBone17

    WishBone17 Member

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    my personal opinion, if you gonna spend that much on the lesser level kepler, why not just go all the way and get these

    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1377&products_id=19828

    top of the range, guaranteed to be reference PCB and no fuss. Yeah sure the 670 is only 7% slower then the 680, but the 680 is still a better card and once you o/c the 680, say bye bye to Mr 670.

    As for the argument of more v-ram, end of the day its been discussed to death and it really doesn't make much of a difference unless your running super hi-res triple screen with insane amounts of eye-candy and AA, and even then all you need to do is turn the AA down a bit and your good..
     
  19. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    You did see all those U2711s he had earlier, right?
     
  20. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Actually I did consider the 680's and they're potentially still on the table - I'm a bit thrown by the massive price difference on those Inno3D 680's and all the rest of the 680 cards out at the moment - what gives? I googled for benchmarks and reviews but couldnt find any either so definitely need more info before making the jump - but if its all fine then yeah, SLI 680's would be a great option. Any ideas?
     

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