Worklog: Massively (Update #65, 29th Nov – Final Pics + Aussie copper pipe fittings!)

Discussion in 'Modding Worklogs' started by Saate, Mar 29, 2012.

  1. MrCupHolder

    MrCupHolder Member

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    Saate

    Reading your thread reminds me. I have a custom built desk too. Love this thing but I did make a small error in my design but I"ll live with it.

    I'll see if I can add a picture up of it.

    You're build looks like it should finish up nicely.
     
  2. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Definitely set on using the copper, this build is as much as creating a piece of art as it is performance - more actually, given the time I'm sinking into sleeving and design :)

    I'll either give the copper a clear coat to help keep it shiny or nickel plate it, will depend on what I do with the rest of the case. I've taken a lot of inspiration from Project White leading up to this build and luckily Alain has been swapping emails with me to talk about my plans.

    As far as stuff to avoid on the loop the big thing is galvanic corrosion, caused by having different types of metals in the loop. An example of what can happen - http://www.overclock.net/t/951340/why-you-shouldnt-mix-alu-copper-another-horror-history

    Also I'm just as much of a noob as you are here :p fortunately with all the good advice and posts and worklogs around anything is doable if you're prepared to put in the time to read up :)
     
  3. Ezekill

    Ezekill Member

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    Can you not just neck the ends down (or have them turned if they're only short lengths) where they need to mate the fittings?
     
  4. Moptimus

    Moptimus Member

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    Yeah, I'd suggest having the ends turned down, should be easy enough (on a scale of the works you are already attempting.)

    Also galvanic corrosion shouldn't be to much of an issue, use a sealant on the pipe to keep the colour, and run with cu blocks as well. Hell, if you are keen enough, you can get full cu rads. That would just leave you with plated fittings + solder to account for.

    Or just run with whatever fittings/rad/blocks and use something like Liquid Utopia or some other anti-corrosion agent.

    Running silver and nickel without anti-corrosion agents, is not a good idea.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Yeah I've considered that, only issue is the 0.7mm brings the wall width down a fair bit considering the varieties of 12.7mm stuff we get here is 0.7-1.00mm wall thickness. I thought I was in luck when I discovered that Crane Copper make the EN 1057 european stuff here, spoke to someone at Tradelink who after many calls was at the stage of placing the order. Fortunately I'd read up on it a lot at the time and when he said "its 0.7mm wall thickness" (the 12mm OD is 0.6mm thickness) I realised he was about to order a 6m length of the 15mm stuff!

    He went away and spoke to them again - came back and told me unless I want to buy a tonne of it they only make that stuff for export. Damnit! Having a think about what contacts I have that might be able to help me out on that but stuck at the moment. Also emailed a UK vendor about international shipment but they got back to me and arent able to cut/ship the length.

    Yeah not too concerned about corrosion, I'll take due care and use some kind of anti corrosion additive. I'll think about it and research in more detail when I get to that stage.

    Thanks, and yeah would be cool to see your desk - did you go for a similar size and flat surface? Trying to figure out what the error could be :) colour?
     
  6. Moptimus

    Moptimus Member

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    Either turn out the fittings by .7 mm or look at using some non watercooling specific G1/4 fittings, that are speccd to suit the 1/2 cu pipe?
     
  7. BlueRaven

    BlueRaven Member

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    Ambitious project, subbed. :thumbup:

    Nice job on the sleeving so far. Dunno about the triple colour scheme but hey, it's your build. :)

    Are you going to be doing the pipe-bending yourself, or outsourcing it?

    Also interested to see how you'll be mating the pipe to the fittings, something I've not really got my head around even after looking at several other hard-piped builds. I presume a flare and some kind of o-ring seal would be required for compression fittings? (I know nothing about this kind of metalwork/plumbing)

    Proper mod, looking forward to moar pix. :leet:
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2012
  8. MrCupHolder

    MrCupHolder Member

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    Just a suggestion.

    Do you have any mates who are plumbers?
    They may have the contacts to get the copper you need.
    Also they may be able to help with the bending of it.
     
  9. BigDave

    BigDave Member

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    Is stainless tube an option? is it available in your size requirement?
     
  10. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Thanks :) I guess black and white arent really colours so the real unifying 'theme' colour is the red sleeving. I've done a few test fits with the motherboard/case/24-pin just to get measurements and it looks pretty nice :) What I really need to figure out is if I want to paint the case or just midplate+mobo plate. Will have to do some thinking on that!

    The 12mm copper pipe fits perfectly into the Bitspower C-47 SLI fittings (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Adapter_Pair_-_Silver_Shining_BP-WTP-C47.html) which are basically just a double o-ring. Some people have concerns with this method and have expressed it in other threads but the guys who've done similar builds and given me advice (Alain and EvoCarlos) havent had problems. I think the main design consideration around this method is that the loop routing should reinforce the fit - eg don't have a 180 degree bend that might (though I doubtit anyway!) potentially be susceptible to being forced out of the fitting over a long period of time.

    Absolutely doing the bending myself - what fun would it be without losing my temper a million times trying to get it right and learning in the process? :p :p


    Yeah I know a few people - its actually a weird paradox that they're the worst kind of people to ask questions! :p Speaking to a few plumbing places on the phone and two mates they actually seem to have no idea the 12mm/european standard even exists. To make it more difficult if you ask "can you get 12mm OD copper" they'll say yes! Since there aren't other 12.x varieties of copper the industry refers to 12.7mm as 12mm. As soon as you say 'No, I actually need the EN 1057 european standard true 12mm OD stuff' they're scratching heads in confusion :)

    A refrigeration teacher I know also was unaware of the 12mm stuff but suggested a whole lot of alternatives to doing it. Unfortunately those methods generally don't lead to 'pretty' finished products - I've seen some of the awesome fridge compressor cooling worklogs some guys have done but yeah, wont be acceptable option for this job.


    That's a good question, my uncle does a fair bit of metalwork and when I was talking to him he suggested non cu tubing options. I just don't know how well it'd bend and would have to think about any longterm (corrosion/etc)implications. Definitely an option though!

    I'll take some shots of the fittings this afternoon or tomorrow, have a 2000 word paper due monday though so will see how I go. Couple of shots of my bender for you guys in the mean time:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2012
  11. WishBone17

    WishBone17 Member

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    Wow, can't wait to see this build mate, looks like one massive pain in the arse project but at the end of it..

    not many people will and can do it.. so my hat goes off to you.
    Best of luck
     
  12. javascripterror

    javascripterror Member

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  13. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Thanks :) Feedback like this is really encouraging. One of the things that initially motivated me to do a build this ambitious was the need to not compromise. A few years back I bought a very expensive thermaltake sword case and had the shop put it together for me. I've got pictures somewhere but let me tell you - it wasnt pretty! The PSU cables were all over the place, I didnt know how the built-in water cooling really worked and worst of all when I added a second video card later the reservoir obstructed access to the back of the card.

    From that experience I decided I'd never accept a similar compromise again. Choosing every part that goes into this build and 'owning' the techniques and methods to customise everything will allow me to create my vision and not have to compromise. I reckon it might be a frustrating journey, but I've got time to learn :)


    Thanks :) I've done a LOT of reading of every kind of worklog I could find involving copper pipe and remember stumbling across that one at some stage - I think I even went as far as calling your phone number to have a chat about fittings at one point but got an answering machine. In any event I'm chuffed to even have you looking at my worklog! :)
     
  14. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    FANS UPDATE!

    This will be a fairly picture heavy one! I initially purchased 5 x Enermax Magma Batwing 120mm fans, at the time I hadnt decided to go beyond a 360mm radiator so figured 3 for the radiator and 2 for the case might suffice. Now that I've committed to the 480mm radiator I'll need to figure out other options for case fans. I'll either try to source more batwing fans or maybe go for a couple of 140's - we'll see :)


    The 5 x 120mm Enermax Batwing Fans as they ship:

    [​IMG]

    This is what the unboxed fan looks like, not too bad looking but that sticker will have to go!
    [​IMG]

    The fan blades disconnected from their housing. One of the reasons I decided to go with these fans was the easily removable blades - simplifies things for a newbie modder! :p

    [​IMG]

    I got to work on some basic drafts for my own fan stickers. In Illustrator I'd play with a design and every time it looked interesting I'd create a copy of the design and paste it next to the original on the sheet to continue experimenting. After a while I had a lot of different designs and evolutions I could look at to decide what looked best. Here are what the earlier designs looked like:

    [​IMG]

    As I kept evolving my preferred variations things started to look useable:

    [​IMG]

    Finally, to figure out what designs I liked the most I printed out all the potentials on plain paper and cut them out. That way I could take turns placing them on the fans to get a rough idea of what I liked best:

    [​IMG]

    This one was an obvious no-go!

    [​IMG]

    The black designs all looked way better! This one was the design I ended up going with:

    [​IMG]

    I wasnt sure what the best way to print the stickers would be. I looked for A4 sticker-paper sheets in a few local places but didnt find anything too cost effective. I ended up grabbing 20 x A4 sheets off eBay for about $8 and used those.

    I also looked at having a local signwriter print them for me. I was quoted $120 for a 1220mm x 1000mm (minimum) sized sheet of stickers on vinyl material. That's not a bad price considering I'd get more stickers than I'd need in a lifetime, but considering the scope of this build it was a bit too much. Might be an option for future if multiple people want to get stickers printed? Anyone aware of similar runs being done?

    Here's the before and after shots showing the stock sticker and my replacements:

    BEFORE:

    [​IMG]

    AFTER:

    [​IMG]

    Now getting around to sleeving the fans! Given the fans cost around $20 each and were out of stock everywhere (discontinued?) I was pretty paranoid about breaking the wires off the PCB. When I'd practiced sleeving on some old Xigmatek fans the heatshrinking process pulled the wires off the PCB - I guess just too much strain on those little solder connections.

    Another lesson I'd learned from that experience was that while the unsleeved wires fit through the gap/guide (pic below) on the side easily enough, once sleeved they wouldnt fit through and trying to force them damages the sleeve. These are the guides I'm talking about:

    [​IMG]

    I decided it was time to pull out the dremel - for the first time ever! (Stepping into the 'bigtime' modding now eh? :ppppp)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Prior to sleeving the fan wires I also took the opportunity to depin them and replace the white 3-pin connectors with nicer black ones:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ...and the finished, sleeved fans! I'm pretty happy with how they turned out :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Moarkill

    Moarkill Member

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    So what are the main colors you want to incorporate int this build?? Choosing colors is my biggest roadblock
     
  16. WishBone17

    WishBone17 Member

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    i wish i had the balls to sleeve.
    damn looks good mate.
     
  17. WuzzA21

    WuzzA21 Member

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    .... what??? just rip the fucker apart and do it...

    I did it one cable at a time...
     
  18. MrCupHolder

    MrCupHolder Member

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    Hmm....

    You've got me thinking.

    Me, I only sleeved my fan cables to the point that you dremelled out. Not all the way up to the fan motor itself like I get the feeling you did.

    This makes me wonder if that was part of the reason why the cables came apart from the PCB. I'm also wondering if it perhaps had something to do with the heat from shrinking the heat shrink melting the solder, but then that is usually the last part that is done and I'm guessing you didn't get that far before they come apart.

    Suffice to say it's looking good so far.

    Oh and Wishbone, we all have our limits.

    I've seen some mods where they replaced the fan cables with black wire so it wouldn't show through the sleeve and also made the wires the required custom lenght. Whilst I have the previous electronics experience to handle this I'm still not prepared to go that far.
     
  19. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Yeah sleeving all the way up to the fan is what I did, although I think the solder connections were just a bit too brittle/dry to handle how close I got. you can't use a heat gun on heatshrink that close to the other components anyway so it was done using a trusty bic sparingly - no risk to the solder/plastic at all.

    Yeah for me it was sleeve all the way to the end or not at all, no half-measures hence the dremmeling :) I also replace bright wiring with black 18 awg stuff if it's going to show through - thats mainly only needed on your traditional ugly 24-pin cables with the red/yellow wires though. Fortunately the clear wires on these fans don't show through and all the wires on my ax1200 are black :)
     
  20. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Looking forward to getting a bit of work done on the 800D case this long weekend :) Thought I'd post a couple of pics today though, ordered some parts from The Koolroom and saw they had a photo competition going on.

    I submitted a picture of my sleeved 24-pin cable and won a Radon 5K Gaming Mouse! Couple of pics :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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