Worklog: Massively (Update #65, 29th Nov – Final Pics + Aussie copper pipe fittings!)

Discussion in 'Modding Worklogs' started by Saate, Mar 29, 2012.

  1. WishBone17

    WishBone17 Member

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    haha you went with the inno's good man. took our (my) advice!
     
  2. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Sure did, thanks again for the prompting :) Any advice on taking it apart to put the Heatkiller waterblock on? Seems like pretty logical steps from what I've read online, basically:

    1. Remove stock air cooler
    2. Apply thermal pads to card
    3. attach waterblock + backplate

    At step 2, if the chipset needs cleaning to remove thermal pad residue whats the safest way to approach that? anything else I need to consider?
     
  3. WishBone17

    WishBone17 Member

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    I've used this as a guide, i know your block is different but it will give you a good idea on how to pull the stock cooler off.



    I've used cotton bud tips dip them in metho, then once all the gunk is off, i tend use isopro-alchohole.
     
  4. azalin79

    azalin79 Member

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    Regarding the tube bending mate and the ripple issue - the sand method seems like a workable idea. I know that plumbers also use certain spring sets that fit inside pipe to support it during bends. I personally never used them as I used " A grade" copper compared to their "B grade" copper ( my work uses the thickest wall copper)

    Will see if I can find them for you and link you to them.
     
  5. DNX

    DNX Member

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  6. Moptimus

    Moptimus Member

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    Bunnings has them. In the plumbing section. I use one when heat setting tube for short radius bends.
     
  7. the3coopers

    the3coopers Member

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    Remember that the standard springs are 1/2" (12.7mm or so) and the OP is using 12mm (special tube). The springs may not work or fit properly as they woun't be tight against the tube walls.

    When we re-plumbed our old house, the plumber used a standard tube bender with no sand etc. But he always annealed the pipe immediately before each bend. No kinks or ripples!

    However, when using a "crush bender" like the OP has (a opposed to a mandrel bender) there is a significant reduction in overall tube diameter at the bend. Whether this actually matters or not is debatable.... too many things to consider re: flow, etc. We decided that for our house, since we have massive water pressure, it wouldn't matter and that using a sweep bend (curved on site) would still flow heaps better than a soldered-on 90 degree elbow fitting.
     
  8. BigDave

    BigDave Member

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  9. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Thanks for the video link, watched it and a bunch of others to get a good feel for how it was done. Took my time over the weekend and put waterblock + backplate on one of the 680's without too much trouble :)



    Thanks for all the advice guys! Have done a lot more reading and will do some experimentation soon, I think I may try to borrow another set of benders from someone just in case that makes any immediate/obvious difference first. Then I'll look into annealing and the rest of it from there. I had a look at springs in my local hardware store yesterday and saw they only seemed to have 'over' springs that cover the pipe instead of going inside it which I found interesting - guessing they're more appropriate for the coiled copper though. It's fun learning about this stuff, I enjoy the depth and complexity of the topic so will definitely continue reading up and listening to advice while I'm working through it! :)

    Man that'd give me nightmares :p I love love love how copper looks but knowing (and experiencing!) how easy it is to mark up with a single touch of your finger it'd be too much having a radiator made out of it I think. The worst part is you never know at the time, but a week later there'll be an ugly blemish to remind you!

    Looking at that radiator I noticed they include a set of gloves for handling it so there must not be a clear protective coat I think? Either way, beautiful piece but I wouldnt trust myself to not accidently touch it :p


    Interesting read so far and exactly the kind of thing I need, thanks mate :)
     
  10. CaidsTech

    CaidsTech Member

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    I've been in Thailand and I've missed out on so much! Just need you to know I have the weirdest boner right now.. :D
     
  11. Creekin

    Creekin (Taking a Break)

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    did u bring a ladyboy home with you?? :weirdo:
     
  12. CaidsTech

    CaidsTech Member

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    :leet:

    She/he can be a gift for when Saate finally finishes this monster..
     
  13. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    UPDATE – First GTX680 card and waterblock

    The new stuff! Inno3D GTX680 2GB card, Watercool Heatkiller GPU-X3 GTX 680 Hole Edition (Nickel) and backplate.

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    Some shots of the beautiful waterblock, kind of tricky to photograph because of the reflection so took a bit of trying to get (somewhat) passable shots:

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    The Inno3D 680 card, kind of annoyed at the blue PCB but it's only a small annoyance in the scheme of things I suppose.
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    Unscrewed! For all the old hat watercoolering pros I’m sure its nothing, but as a first timer I found the notion of taking apart a brand new card to be pretty scary! :p

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    The fan connector on the card:

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    Before and after cleaning:

    [​IMG]

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    Thermal pads applied:

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    Applying the thermal compound:

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    Preparing the backplate:

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    ..and done! I ran out of lighting so the final shot are a little lame, I’ll retake them when the second block arrives :)

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    I’m thinking of using something to remove the red labelling from the top of the capacitors. I’ve seen it done in a few builds before so will have to dig up some worklogs to read up on the best method to do this.

    I’m also wondering how on earth 1kg+ waterblocked card can be mounted and not eventually sag or break the motherboard, surely two cards makes this even worse? I know the screws into the back of the case and the backplate provide some reinforcement, but it seems like a lot of stress on the PCIE slots. Is this something that just ‘works’ or are there horror stories about?
     
  14. WishBone17

    WishBone17 Member

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    Ohh no the attack of the blue PCB!!! Meh it doesnt bother me really, i know its frowned upon with alot of peeps.


    As for the 1kg block, most of the weight is transferred to the IO back thingie of your case (WTF is that called) when you clip it down, so it should be ok.

    as for saggy PCB, i can tell you now, my gtx 580 with AC blocks have a little sagg, however it has no back plate, but its been going strong for over a year now. So nothing to worry about :) (just looks a little shit)
     
  15. Creekin

    Creekin (Taking a Break)

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    justworks™ :thumbup:
    as boner said..its mostly taken by the io slot screw
    i have had cards that sagged and others that done..like my current 6950s
    tbh i think it comes down to the quality of the pcb.
    a solid sli loop link helps too i reckon
    kl adjustable ftw :thumbup:
    OH the huge manatees!!!!!!! :upset: :thumbdn:
     
  16. WishBone17

    WishBone17 Member

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    WURD MA WIGGER!
    Yep, those KL links do help out. Get two of em for extra beefy re-inforcement.
     
  17. Creekin

    Creekin (Taking a Break)

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    mmmm beefy :weirdo:
     
  18. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    He has watercool blocks, why would he waste his money on the stupid KL connectors when he can just get one of these. :confused:

    The linked connector is solid as a rock I might add.
     
  19. Creekin

    Creekin (Taking a Break)

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    coz its butt ugly :wired:
    i got one of those with ek blocks..a long long time ago.... :Paranoid:
    and i hated it..sent it back to ek and got the kl one.
    its the ONLY kl product i like
     
  20. Huggy_Bear64

    Huggy_Bear64 Member

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    You probably got an EK one, different design... :thumbdn:

    These connectors look the shit on the watercool blocks :thumbup:
     

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