Worklog: Massively (Update #65, 29th Nov – Final Pics + Aussie copper pipe fittings!)

Discussion in 'Modding Worklogs' started by Saate, Mar 29, 2012.

  1. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    So good :) She loved this one, was laughing heaps!


    Very awesome :)
     
  2. SoulFire-Z

    SoulFire-Z Member

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    hahahahahaha this worklog has been awesome to read through and now it's entertaining to boot, what more could you ask for?!
     
  3. Moptimus

    Moptimus Member

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  4. WuzzA21

    WuzzA21 Member

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    Thats gold!
     
  5. pieceofchance

    pieceofchance Member

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    honestly Moppy, I was thinking of this very idea on the train home this arvo...
     
  6. Kommandant33

    Kommandant33 Member

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    [​IMG]


    MSPAINTLEVEL10
     
  7. ex4n

    ex4n Member

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    Been enjoying dropping into this build log and catching up on what you're doing every now and then, level of detail and dedication is impressive :)

    I was wondering, did you test your graphics cards were working before you slapped blocks on them? I didn't see it mentioned anywhere. Just thought it might save you a massive headache later if it turns out one of them is a dud.

    Keep up the good work.
     
  8. {SAS}TB

    {SAS}TB New Member

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    Registered just to say (apart from a great work-log) - Where's the updates ?




    :D
     
  9. goateh

    goateh (Banned or Deleted)

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    TB - from BHD? Played with DFW now and again?
     
  10. OP
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    Saate

    Saate Member

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    I know you guys are trying to tell me something...I just need time to break the code and figure out what! :p I've got an update coming later today that should tide you all over, been doing a minor lot of bits and pieces on the machine but mostly have a lot of consecutive paper deadlines on this grad cert which are killing me!

    Thanks mate :) Yeah the cards got a quick run before I put the blocks on, but that's done nothing to put my mind at ease! I'm fairly paranoid that they won't work post-blocks and it'll turn out I've missed doing something simple that I won't have heard a thing about until after the fact - "What do you mean you didn't purple cat J2 smoke prep them?! at least you've got some expensive doorstops now!".
     
  11. WishBone17

    WishBone17 Member

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  12. OP
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    Saate

    Saate Member

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    UPDATE – Casework

    As the build gets closer to the tail end I’m finding that I’m being forced into tackling some of the stuff I’ve been avoiding for a while – in this case it’s acrylic work that’s been holding things up a bit. I’ve decided that instead of sending the midplate to a lasercutter I’ll do it myself, and I’ve been delaying cutting the midplate myself until my confidence with the Dremel Trio had increased a bit.

    The ‘screw it’ approach helps get through these bottlenecks though :) I’ve got a piece of 600x600 black cast acrylic which is good enough for 3 attempts at the midplate myself, I figured I’d cut it and see how it turned out. At the very least I’ll learn from the process and even if I screw the piece up I can use it temporarily which will allow me to start working on the loop.

    The 600x600 piece of black acrylic:

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    Marked and measured the midplate:

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    Clamped down and checked a bazillion times:

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    [​IMG]

    The finished cut, not too bad I think! I still need to cut out the bulkhead fittings from inside the piece and the larger piece for the pump. I’ve been struggling to figure out how to neatly do the pump piece which is a 70mm circle. It’s too small for the Dremel Trio’s circle attachment and not quite the right size for the hole saws I have available. I may end up just using the Scroll Saw and/or Dremel Trio to do it but would welcome any tips, tricks or suggestions you guys have. Any ideas?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    I also added the rear fillport to the top of the case. The Dremel Trio was amazing for this! Cut through the case like butter, saved me a lot of time and was a lot neater than using the standard Dremel. I owe you again pieceofchance :)

    Taping up the case, I noticed the rivets on back of the rad grill are slightly marked so will have to drill those out and redo later on. They weren’t MDPC rivets because I didn’t have them at the time, so probably a good move to redo them anyway.

    [​IMG]

    Getting measurements for placement:

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    Gratuitous macro shot:

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    Ready to cut:

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    Ripped through the cut with the Dremel Trio, because I was doing the cut by sight I made sure to stay well inside the line I wanted to cut. That way I could sand/grind back to the line to make sure there was a snug fit for the fill port. The rough cut:

    [​IMG]

    Cleaning up:

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    Tape removed and the fitting in!

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    ..and I’ll leave you with a few shots of the frame to provide some context for where the fillport sits:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Next up will be finishing up the midplate and doing some more test runs on loop layout. I should do it in Sketchup or something like that but I kinda like working it out with real copper, and using the 12.7mm aussie pipe for test layouts is good pipe bending practice so worth the effort I think.
     
  13. {SAS}TB

    {SAS}TB New Member

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    No not me mate, sorry :)


    @ Saate - very very nice :)

    I have modded (by someone else :p) 700D - the 700 / 800 chassis are awesome - cant wait to see yours finished :D
     
  14. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Love it, and she also found it pretty amusing - just checked again and noticed its gone though! :O

    I really really like how the window is attached on your case btw, any closer pics or info? are the acrylic and metal both thinner where they're attached?


    Thanks mate :)
     
  15. the3coopers

    the3coopers Member

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    Just one thing that I watch almost all "modders" do that is really crazy. They want to cutting a straight line, so they use a jigsaw or a Dremel (a Trio in this instance). That's madness. :lol:

    To cut a straight line, especially in something soft like acrylic, you just use a normal hand saw or a hacksaw. It's the best device for the job, and it cuts a straight line. For the best straight line cut, use a Tenon Saw which has a reinforcing rib along the spine...

    http://www.jhmbuttco.com/acatalog/ak8642.jpg

    gords edit: DO NOT HOTLINK PICS YOU ARE NOT HOSTING YOURSELF.

    Hint - have the saw at a relatively "flat" angle so you are cutting at a shallow angle with as many blades as possible in contact with the material. This makes the cut straighter, and also minimises noise and chipping.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 2, 2012
  16. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Thanks mate - your thoughts are something I've only recently really figured out working on this midplate acrylic piece. It's funny throughout this build how many things I've learned by doing the hard/long/wrong way first! Does make it feel rewarding when you later realise how much easier it can be though! Right tool for the job indeed :)

    I grabbed an adjustable holesaw yesterday and was amazed how quickly and cleanly it cut the pump hole out of the acrylic. Really glad to have that one solved, should have some photos later in the weekend.
     
  17. m3k

    m3k Member

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    Thumbs up to coopers in a few threads I've found his feedback has been excellent! :)

    Great work saate :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2012
  18. pieceofchance

    pieceofchance Member

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    no. no. no. no. no. no. If it can be done with any form of power tool, a hand tool is insufficient. If you are so committed to the idea, turn off your pc and mail me the complaint in your own hand writing. With ink you manufactured using pigments dried from flowers you gathered yourself. Then deliver it on horseback.

    Tools are called tools for a reason. You want a power tool. You want to be powerful don't you? and remember the motto from high school shop class "if someone loses a finger, EVERYONE loses a finger!"

    ...

    You are, of course, completely correct. But who wants to have to make electrical engine noises when trying to cut a straight line with a handsaw?
     
  19. m3k

    m3k Member

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    tbh a jigsaw with high density teeth might actually be fine at a lower speed?
     
  20. BrickTop

    BrickTop Member

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    Glad you got your hands on a decent pair of benders. There's no reason to anneal 1/2" copper at all Hard Drawn or not.

    Are you going to lacquer the copper? If you don't I wouldn't waste my time polishing it cause it won't stay that way for long. Some stuff available here
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2012

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