Worklog: Massively (Update #65, 29th Nov – Final Pics + Aussie copper pipe fittings!)

Discussion in 'Modding Worklogs' started by Saate, Mar 29, 2012.

  1. the3coopers

    the3coopers Member

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    I love my angle grinder and chainsaw - they are my favourites. Every time I see a Dremel, I think about how much of a kiddie toy they are... powered by a gerbil on speed :lol:

    BTW - for the sounds, all you need is the internetz http://www.soundsnap.com/tags/angle_grinder
     
  2. pieceofchance

    pieceofchance Member

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    nah man, I cut up a few cases on Friday with the jigsaw... nothing screams getoffmydamnlawn like that sound... i still have mild tinea HIVtinnitus, but goddamn if it isnt worth it to feel like a man ... in your backyard ... while trying not to step on dog poop ... yeah, I know, my shirt is tucked in, not ripped at the shoulders like a vest ... going inside now to listen to sounds of an angle grinder like a good husband/father... oh, I need to go to the shops? OK, tampons again hey? OK....
     
  3. nooster

    nooster Member

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    LOL^^
    gotta love the sound of screeching demands steel on metal.

    comon man wheres your westie spirit! nothing speaks volumes about being a man like a flannle and a wife beater bluie singlet :D
     
  4. the3coopers

    the3coopers Member

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    C'mon indeed... a true westie would get HER to make all the case cutouts :leet:
     
  5. Moptimus

    Moptimus Member

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    You expect him to look like a man buying tampons? :lol::lol:


    sometimes I think that this thread belongs in the pub. Most OT build log ever.
     
  6. pieceofchance

    pieceofchance Member

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    YOU. FUCKING. WIN.
     
  7. WishBone17

    WishBone17 Member

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    Haha, well i took it down as its my signature pic, didn't want to exploit pics of your misses bud :)

    as for the window its sold as an extra by Lian Li, its mounted via 10 torx screws, however I unscrewed them to clean the acrylic, then when i put it back on, i overtightened the torx screws and now my acrylic has cracked near the drill holes.. :(

    considering taking it to a glass cutter and see if he can make it from Glass..
     
  8. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    I need to pick up a jigsaw anyway, but I suspect i'd mainly use it for casework rather than acrylic.

    If I don't nickel plate it then I'll definitely have to do something to keep it shiny :) It'd drive me mad to accidently touch it and know that days later it'll be wrecked! Even the 12.7mm stuff I've been practising with bothers me so may grab some of the lacquer stuff anyway - is it all the same? have seen a few types in stores around Canberra but wasnt sure.

    Have been thinking about the windows I'll do for this build and of all the difference ways I've seen I like the most difficult way of course - fitting the window flush with the cutout in the sidepanel so that you can use rubber glue on the inside edge and attach it seamlessly. I remember l3p did this in one of his builds although the panel + acrylic were much thicker than the 1.5mm stuff the 800d is made of. I'll need to have a good think about if it'd even work the way I want.
     
  9. dr-

    dr- New Member

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    A large case, tons of watercooling, innovative use of materials, custom parts and stickers, heaps of cutting, and copper pipes.

    What else can I ask for in a worklog?

    Fantastic Saate!

    I just spent the last hour scouring through your massive (pun intended!) project. Hope to see some updates soon!
     
  10. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Thanks mate - very much appreciated and a lot more cool stuff coming :) Looking forward to knocking over a lot of work on the build this weekend too, sneak preview of the next update:


    [​IMG]
     
  11. dr-

    dr- New Member

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    :thumbup:

    Looking forward to it mate!

    Are those res holders?
     
  12. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    Nah just testing an adjustable holesaw I picked up, had been agonising how to cut this 70mm hole in the midplate in a clean way. Videos on youtube suggested all sorts of things which had me worried that it was going to cut badly or burn or warp or something - fortunately it seemed to go really well and I'm happy with the test midplate :)
     
  13. the3coopers

    the3coopers Member

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    When using holesaws, just keep the speed down. Especially if they have a "cylindrical saw" kind of design.

    You can pick up a $10 to $12 holesaw set from hardware or ebay that will have about 20 different sized saws. They work amazingly well, no problem with steel (up to 10mm thick!) providing you keep the speed down so they don't overheat.
     
  14. BrickTop

    BrickTop Member

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    Use a bit of WD40 or whatever spray you have around as well. Keeps them sharp:thumbup:
     
  15. BlueRaven

    BlueRaven Member

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    For the love of god, please call me the next time you have the need to cut a hole in 10mm steel with a $12 Bunnings holesaw set.
    I am the kind of person who finds it thoroughly enthralling to watch paint dry and grass grow, and I've been looking for a subject for my dissertation: "Frustration and Rage: A Human Study".

    :lol:

    Proper cutting oil works better, but WD will do in a pinch.
    Not needed for cutting wood or acrylic of course, only when cutting metal.

    A jigsaw with metal blade (~20tpi) at low speed works nicely when cutting larger holes in acrylic. Clamping the workpiece to a bit of 3mm-6mm MDF scrap before cutting helps to avoid cracking/splintering.
     
  16. the3coopers

    the3coopers Member

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    My last attempt was cutting a new hole for a towball in the baseplate of a car bike carrier. And yes, it WAS very slow :)
     
  17. OP
    OP
    Saate

    Saate Member

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    UPDATE – ROG Logo Mod

    Big update for a relatively small mod, but an important and fun one for me! I’ve mentioned this part of the mod in passing before, and it’s something that I’ve worked on in dribs and drabs over the last few months as I had thoughts or got pieces. I wanted to modify the ‘ROG – Republic of Gamers’ LED on the motherboard, this is the one I’m talking about:

    [​IMG]

    Removed the heatsink from the motherboard to get a better look at the LED piece. Still couldn’t seem to budge it or open it up:

    [​IMG]

    I didn’t want to try forcing it out and risk breaking the piece, so put an ad in the WTB section here on the forums for an old/broken board with one of the same bits on it. Was lucky enough to have Azalin79 respond and send me the heatsink from his old board for free! Big thanks mate :) Here are the shots of that piece arriving:

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    The LED piece on Azalin79’s heatsink pushed out pretty easily, turned out to be held there by some reasonably weak adhesive. Mine doesn’t budge at all so I wonder if they’ve changed that in newer designs:

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    There’s a layer of adhesive stuff on the back on the piece so I carefully removed it:

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    Getting there:

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    …and done!

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    Took me a while to get the two pieces apart, I was sure there must have been a simple way to do it but not having the benefit of seeing inside made it a bit difficult. Combinations of cardboard wedges, wire, cableties and bent pop-rivets were all useless:

    [​IMG]

    ..but finally, I get the pieces apart:

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    Now that it’s apart I have a better idea of how it all works. In this next shot you can see the white backing that defuses the light the LEDS shine through:

    [​IMG]

    The next steps are figuring out how I can make my own cover/logo out of acrylic to shine through. I have a closer look at the cover piece and can see a fine groove where the acrylic piece connects:

    [​IMG]

    I grab the stanley knife and finesse it into the groove, slowly working around the whole piece. After doing this for a little while the adhesive or whatever was holding it in gives way and the front comes loose:

    [​IMG]

    Ok so that’s helped simplify things..at least a little! All I need to do now is find or cut out a small circle of acrylic and figure out how to print a sticker or something to go onto the top of it. Easy..right? Apparently not so – this had me stumped and thinking for ages!

    My first preference was to try to find a pre-cut piece of acrylic that was close in size to what I wanted, that way there’d be less work required. I thought about carrying the front piece in my pocket to compare with stuff but didn’t want to lose it, then when measuring it I realised it’s pretty much identical in diameter to a 20-cent piece – heaps easier to carry around with me!

    One Friday afternoon after work I hit up the local westfields and looked around for stuff I might be able to salvage the piece from. There’s PLENTY of circular plastic containers roughly the right size in stores like that but they all tended to have a dimple/marking dead in the centre from injection moulding in the manufacturing process so were all no good. Then I stumbled upon these babies, the circular piece covering the bulb was the same size as a 20-cent piece so I figured it had to be pretty close to what I wanted:

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    The moment of truth – it wasn’t just close to the right size, it was a perfect fit!

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    I ordered some laser printer transparencies from eBay to experiment with. I originally printed a sheet of 30mm labels to cut out and test:

    [​IMG]

    The 30mm stickers were too big, being the same size as the acrylic piece meant I had to cut them perfectly to fit and I was failing at that. I realised they needed to be 1-2mm smaller and, if I wanted to stick them to the acrylic, printed backwards so modified the design and did another sheet. I wasn’t sure if I should go 29mm or 28mm so printed rows of both sizes, the numbers on each line are to remind me which is which so I didn’t get them mixed up!

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    All the pieces ready:

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    A challenge with using the transparencies is that a single layer won’t cut it for preventing bleedthrough. I had a torch setup to test as I went, this is what a backlit piece using a single layer looks like – not a very desirable result!

    [​IMG]

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    So I ended up deciding to use multiple layers of transparencies to kill the bleedthrough. Putting some water on the previous layer each time helped give me a little more working time to make sure the layers were aligned well with each other:

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    Light bleed test after four layers of transparency:

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    ..and light test with a layer of red paper, pretty happy with the look:

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    Time to go back into the heatsink, which I also took the opportunity to sleeve:

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    Back on the motherboard:

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    I actually stuffed up when I was putting it back on and touched the face of the piece with superglue on my finger, it’s ruined and I’ll have to redo it but it’s pretty easy now that I know how. Wondering if I should add additional text below the MASSIVELY like ‘BY SAATE’ in small writing or something, will have to think about that.

    Keen to hear what you guys think, I’ve got more progress to post about but this has been a pretty big update so will leave it there for the moment.
     
  18. Moptimus

    Moptimus Member

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    Awesome. Again your attention to detail shows through, and we get to see exactly why this log has as many views as it does.

    As to what to put in that area, is that your final font? Have you thought about incorporating the fan logo onto that part there? What other imagery are you using in the build?
     
  19. azalin79

    azalin79 Member

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    Good stuff mate - looks a treat.
     
  20. BlueRaven

    BlueRaven Member

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    Yeah, that's cool. Bravo mate. :thumbup:

    You could produce a lot of funky effects with this mod.
    The Asus/ROG fanboys would probably call it sacrelige though. :lol:
     

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