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Your recent acquisitions, or what retro have you bought lately?

Discussion in 'Retro & Arcade' started by power, Feb 20, 2011.

  1. Pierre32

    Pierre32 Member

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    I've seen a few mentions of Dualshock 4 controllers working natively in Win98, so I bought one. Can confirm:

    • Connect via USB and it installs using generic Win98 drivers
    • Configurable in both Windows & DOS mode games, and works a ruddy treat
    • Even the USB audio component installs, so you can plug in a headset. How neat is that!

    One catch though. On this system at least (I'm currently on the Aspire VIA system) when the USB audio installs, it seems to boot the onboard audio driver. So you need one or the other installed. I'll be interested to see if both can remain active when I drop a real sound card in here. [edit] Same behaviour on the Aptiva's SIS board... onboard sound booted!

    Thank you Sony for the perfect Microsoft controller :D

    upload_2020-8-2_15-36-48.png
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2020
  2. Zubrick

    Zubrick Member

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    Just picked up an old case from the 80's.
    It is a case for for a Cleveland 286 AT. Its just a case, so no internals.
    Cleveland Computers were made in Qld back in the day. I can recall a friend of mine getting a Cleveland 386, we thought it was unbeliveably fast. He could load the autocad drawing of the Columbia spaceship in a 5 minuites while my AT took an eternity.
    Anyway here are a few photos for your amusement.

    286_6.jpg

    286_5.jpg 286_4.jpg
    286_3.jpg 286_1.jpg

    the front plastic while a bit yellow is not in too bad nick for 35 or so years old.
    The rust under the top cover may take a bit more work.
    I was thinking of giving the rust a good scrub with a wire brush and then some rust eater. But if anyone has a better idea I would be pleased to hear it.
    BTW its quite a heavy unit, the steel is quite thick.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2020
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  3. Pierre32

    Pierre32 Member

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    Cool as hell! I love that the old badges are basically pristine. It's going to scrub up beautifully.

    When I had a rust job to clean up, I was very pleased with how effective just a wire brush followed by sandpaper was. Followed by some Galmet or other sealant of course.

    Rust.jpg Rust-Repair-2.jpg
     
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  4. Zubrick

    Zubrick Member

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    Hey Pierre your case came up really well after a scrub and Galmet.
    Can I ask what you sprayed it with after that.
    Did you do the whole case or just the treated side?
    The serious rust on my case is really only inside so I am thinking of just spraying that a matt grey.
     
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  5. Pierre32

    Pierre32 Member

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    That shot above is pre-Galmet, and here it is after. I only sprayed the sanded area. Matte grey because it's internal (and I already had that can); if it was a visible part I'd have bought something clear.

    My only regret was the shoddy masking job! Even though it's hidden away inside, I did kick myself.

    Rust-Repair-5.jpg
     
  6. shredder

    shredder Member

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    There's the electrolysis method of rust removal. Not sure it'd have much practical application in this area. Perhaps if the rust was in intricate cutouts or similar then it could be useful. Fun home science experiment, I found, at the least!

    Question. What do you guys use to clean your components with? I don't mean the solvent - that's easy. I mean the cloths, the cotton tips, that sort of thing. What would you use to wipe the solvent all around the dozens of millimetre gaps on an old expansion card and pick up the crud, for example, when cleaning and restoring it?

    I've used cotton tips (those things you're not supposed to clean your ears with, but everyone does) dipped in isopropyl to sort of clean up a few things before like that, but it doesn't feel efficient and fibres can catch on things, not to mention potential micro static properties (probably getting overly paranoid there but look, you tell me! :tongue: ), etc.

    Or, for a contentious alternative view, is it better to not do that at all? Is "cleaning a card" a vain, counter-productive move entirely?
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2020
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  7. FIREWIRE1394

    FIREWIRE1394 Member

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    Paint brushes can be dipped in anything you want!
    The cheaper they are, the more you can scrub and use whatever solvent or solution you require.

    The better they are, the more precise and delicate jobs they can handle.
     
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  8. Pierre32

    Pierre32 Member

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    For getting in and around components, I use one of these anti-static brushes. The bristles are really stiff, so they're also good for general case cleaning - flicking crud out of crevices and such.

    Capture2.PNG

    Other than that, the usual suite of cotton buds, microfibre cloths etc. I have these big-arse things too (I fancied them as drive head cleaners, but they're a bit too chunky):

    Capture.PNG


    I also got some of those Chux magic eraser sponges. They are pretty magic for removing old paint, pen, marker etc. But they'll also take the finish off the surface pretty easily, so you have to be really careful with them.
     
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  9. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    You can get wire brush attachments for electric drills. Makes quick work of it.
     
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  10. shredder

    shredder Member

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    I hate the danger of the thousands of tiny metal filings created when one does such case work. They go in crevices of items, on skin and clothes, anything in the vicinity, etc. Best of all, they tend to get magnetised by the ferro-friction (if I have that right!). Can't be too careful mixing those with an electronics/computing hobby!
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2020
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  11. FIREWIRE1394

    FIREWIRE1394 Member

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    My recent acquisition is actually an Easter egg.
    I rescued a bunch of 2003-2007 era derelict cases ages ago.

    Finally got to one and inside is a Pine 44x CD ROM from 1999.
    A further Easter egg inside the drive is EA’s Harry Potter and the philosophers stone game.

    I always love finding discs in drives, like time capsules of the digital age.

    If the drive works, One day I’ll Get around to using it. So much retro right now.

    And if it requires a bit more precision, just fit them to a rotary tool.
    Like a drill is fine, but from time to time, having a light, easy to handle dremel instead of a drill is just great.
     
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  12. elvis

    elvis Old school old fool

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    Tips:

    1) Safety first - face masks, eye goggles, etc

    2) Get a safe work area. I have a workshop where sensitive electronics don't go - it's all wood/metal work. I can make all the mess in the world and not worry.

    3) Wipe rusty surfaces with a cloth rag with a bit of turps before and after. This oily solvent will help catch a lot of the rust and stop particles flying about.

    4) Post grind and rust-eater, consider painting to clean/prevent things up further. Clean the surface thoroughly first to remove all metal/rust particles. Then I use "Cold galvit" which is a zinc based paint as a prep coat. This will prevent further rust. Then a good oil-based spray paint.
     
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  13. Zubrick

    Zubrick Member

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    Hey guys thanks for all the tips. Heaps of good info here.
    I am getting one of those anti static brushes for cleaning components, cards etc. Curiously in all the years of toying with computer parts I have been very lucky and never lost a part to static. I can remember the early days when we used those anti static wrist straps. I can remember nervously populating an expansion board with dimm for my AT and being so concerned about static bricking any of the costly chips but all good.

    Anyway I cleaned up the plastic face of the case and it came up really well. Of all things I used WD40 which takes off the dirt and any old unwanted labels. I did not remove those great Cleveland stickers but there were a few places where people had had old price tags etc and the WD40 took off all the old glue etc and it really worked well on the dirt. I tried the wd40 on the back first as a test just in case. I rember reading about using wd40 in a thread one day.

    Today i will have a lash at the rust. Thanks to elvis for reminding me about the wire wheels. I had forgotten i had some.

    Just to add to the things you can use for cleaning components, cards etc I use cotton buds but I also use dental products. I use the small brushes in this photo. I buy them overseas but you could get them here. The small yellow brush is for cleaning braces but it works great on computers and it can really get into some tight places and doesnt leave threads like buds.

    286_goo.jpg
     
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  14. FIREWIRE1394

    FIREWIRE1394 Member

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    The suggestion of dental products is itself a really great tip, I have some piksters denture cleaners that don't often get needed, because usually a toothbrush is good enough for most stuff. you can get ones with bendable ends which is really useful if you ever need to get gunk out of various pins etc.


    Yep, WD40 is a great gentle sticker remover and always stays in my cleaning supplies. Along with Preen (stain remover), Oomph (Goo remover) and Goof off (Graffiti remover)
    The higher up you go, the more careful you have to be, but WD40 is 99% of the time a safe bet on pretty much any part.
     
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  15. gdjacobs

    gdjacobs Member

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    You can always use redneck rust converter, aka hot sauce.
    https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?p=462917#p462917
     
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  16. Draxx

    Draxx Member

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    Tea tree oil is great for removal of stubborn adhesive left over from labels too.
     
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  17. TaXy DriVar

    TaXy DriVar Member

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    I recently scored, in what seems near mint condition (yet to test on the Amiga), ... one of these puppies! Been looking for years.

    [mod edit - please don't hotlink images. Download them and attach them to your post if you like so that OCAU hosts them direct]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 6, 2020
  18. OP
    OP
    power

    power Member

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    naughty naughty, use your own piccy ;)

    nice score. I have one too only got it last year quite like it.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 6, 2020
  19. badmofo

    badmofo Member

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    Love the design of those sticks!
     
  20. shredder

    shredder Member

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    There's one of those sticks locally for $75, I noticed. Looks the goods. Made in Australia it says.

    I'm in the midst of organising to (hopefully) receive a 17" SVGA CRT monitor next week. A quick look didn't find any locally. This one will come from 500km away and will cost me about $200 delivered.

    Slightly concerned that it will be counter-productive in some way, to attempt taking the signature Power Of Grayskull photo while holding it above my head with one hand.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2020

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